I'm not sure I have any particularly great intelligence on green contours, but I like the greens on the courses you mention.
I draw a distinction between the green contours of a total green--and sharp internal contours that seem misplaced when looking at the green as a whole. I have heard the concept of looking in particular at the interior rolls of greens--the genius of these was Perry Maxwell (who often worked with MacKenzie, whose greens you like). They call great interior contours "Maxwell rolls." The theory is that it is much easier to do the rolls on the edges of greens, because you have the contours just off the greens to work with--or contrast with. But the interior rolls are the tougher ones.
I love creatively contoured greens--like those you mention. But sharp interior rolls that seem out-of-place in an otherwise beautiful total green are a feature that I find jarring and offensive. They seem to me unnatural and "tricked up." Often too cute.
In the big picture, this post hits the nail on the head. I think Maxwell was the exception among Golden Age guys who placed mounds, humps, muffins, whatever you wanted to call them, in greens. I know there were several in the old Scottish courses. I recall reading somewhere that Bill Diddel liked to emulate Maxwell on a softer scale, but in reality, he also believed in rolling the contours from the edges, with few if any subtle mounds in the middle.
So, the rolling edges became standard, and kudos to the few modern architects who brought them back, when appropriate (i.e., large greens, courses designed for challenge, etc.) And like Jim and Ally (I think) I like the look of a long ridge creeping 1/3 to 2/3 across the green (or the "magic" ratio of 5/8th across, but never 50-50!) The mounds in the middle (sounds like a candy bar ad!) only look good to me if they are in a very large green, so much so that something visual needs to happen between the other rolls or the green just looks flat.
As to the definition of "heavily contoured greens" I again favor actual stats over isolated examples or adjectives like "great" (or "horrible".
The PGA Tour likes cups to be set at no more than 2.25% grade (with <2% preferred in most cases, and where possible, i.e., I doubt they would set all 18 cups at 2.25%.) They expect greens at 13-14 and of course, the world's best putters.
The Masters and USGA allow cups to be set at up to 3.88% using a field measurement of 90 degree slope measurements that total no more than 5.5 (i.e., 2.75% and 2.75% cross slope at 90 degrees) also with 13-14 speeds and world's best putters. BTW, when I have worked at clubs with fast greens, I often use the old TEPaul trick of asking members (of all handicaps) which pin positions are borderline unfair, and in every......single.....case, those measured out at 5.6 on the USGA cross slope method. So, based on my experience, I currently have no problems with that 3.88% recommendation (translating two cross slopes to one downhill slope requires some geometry, but the max slope would be that 2.75% and 2.75% cross slope combo, with others, like 3% and 2.5% being less downhill slope)
The USGA still recommends slopes not exceeding 3% for everyday play, at green speeds of typical 9.5-10.
ASGCA member Jerry Lemmons produced a putting green speed/slope (and degrees in a second chart if you prefer that measure) which actually corresponds pretty well to the above, and actually all slightly above generic recommendations, which I find to be about right based on my measurements.
For a recent project here in Texas, I used his graph to show how greens would play at various times. He recommends maximum for good and mid level borderline slopes (max between borderline and critical is slightly higher) Even on borderline slopes, he recommends that 8 feet around the hole be constant:
for green speed 14 (pro tournaments or winter Bermuda) 2.9-3.5%
for green speed 12 (tournaments and special events) 3.4-4.0%for green speed 10 (max every day at most public courses) 3.9-4.5%So you, Mr. potential client, can tell me your definition of what a wild contour is, and I'll provide it!The tendency of most is to hold to a max of 3% for those 14 green speed days (if unavoidable) and sometimes I just push for one pin in each quadrant of the green to be that, rather than the entire quadrant (don't have to move the pins as much during slower play in the winter. Or, max of 3.5% so putting is no more than borderline all winter.I should mention that many of the Golden Age books mentioned the vast majority of any green should be useable for cup locations (which back then might have been 6-8%) so avoiding non cup areas in the middle of a green is NOT a new idea, nor it it something where we have veered away from the intent of Golden Age architects. I would have to go through each of my old books to find the example I am thinking of.