I rate playing with my brother-in-law at North Berwick in June 1998 as one of my top five playing experiences ever. Not only because of the course, which is obviously a kick in the pants to play, but also because of the surroundings and the ambience.
We were there on the opening day of the World Cup football tournament, when Scotland was playing defending champion (I think) Brazil in the tournament's opening game. We had our lunch in the upstairs dining room overlooking the 18th during the pregame ceremonies, and then repaired to the Quarterdeck (?--might be the Quartermaster) pub across the street to watch the game. While we might have been killed there normally (and certainly would have been if we'd have rooted for Brazil!), judging by the clientele, that day it was like a 2 1/2 hr drinking party with comrades from every walk of life. Wouldn't have missed it for the world!
Just one of the reasons I try to suggest that folks not overschedule their golf trips to Scotland. Most of time you'll never remember every shot, or some of the holes, but you'll remember the times in the pubs, chats with locals, shops, distilleries, fishing, whatever equally as fondly, if not more...
There is/was a terrific B & B on the right side of the 17th fairway called the St. James House, that I would highly recommend, if still in business. The proprietors were members at Gullane, I think, and loved to talk and play golf...
Peter