Mark - in my first post, I was agreeing with you, or at least with what I thought you were suggesting, which struck me as very insightful and interesting, i.e. that the best way to see and understand great architecture was not to look straight at it but instead to focus on its effects/affects, on the ball, on our choices, in terms of penalties and recoveries. etc...in other words, to study architecture through peripheral vision. (Im surprised folks didn't jump all over this thread; I hope I didn't help dampen the enthusiasm). So, to answer your last question: I think the powerful urge to look directly at it is the mistake; maybe we should fight that urge and instead allow ourselves to experience the architecture more fully, via the peripheral route.
Peter