Sean,
I'd give Swinley Forest, St George's Hill, Royal Ashdown, St Enodoc, R W Norfolk and many another top marks for charm. It's a pleasure just to be there even if you are not golfing.
For lack of charm I suggest Royal Lytham - great test of golf, but it's hard to love it; West Lancs - good course but bleak; The Belfry - which is testing enough, but still feels like a potato field; The Oxfordshire - just a blot on the landscape, however probing it may be; Prestatyn - very good golf course, but an unattractive place; Royal Dublin, perhaps?