I'm with Joel on Mauna Kea...true, it does have some beautiful holes, but it has a lot of elevated greens that makes it a very difficult course to walk. And I've had the same experience with the poor service. Anyway, it's closed so you don't have that option.
I like the courses at Mauna Lani, it's a little more low key, easy to walk, and the South course has some beautiful holes by the ocean that rival the Mauna Kea ocean holes...the Skins game was played there. The North course is a little more subtle, but I agree with Doak's CG assessment, it's a better course. If you get there in the morning and it's not crowded, you can easily play both courses on the same day.
The service at the Hualalai Nicklaus course is first rate, but it's only open to guests of the resort there, and I don't particularly enjoy that course.
Rob