[Kyle Harris]

I've always been fond of the use of fescue roughs, especially in an unevenly integrated form (kinda clumpy looking, that sort of thing). However, the preference seems to have fescue as being overly thick such that a lost ball is more than commonplace.

What are some methods by which fescue can be maintained as a light and whispy variety that annoys the shot, but still allows it to take place? Is it costly?

[Tom_Doak]

Kyle:  Basically, you have to seed the fescue at a very light rate and be willing to put up with some open soil between the clumps at first.  

If you seed it at a "turf" rate and give it much in the way of starter fertilizer, it will get way too thick, and it's really difficult to hack it back to the desired look from there.

Fescue roughs on fertile soils tend not to work so well.  Stick to gravelly or sandy sites.

[Kyle Harris]

Tom,

Thank you. I was wondering what effect the soil had on the ability to maintain the fescue. That would explain how one of the courses in our area (Lookaway) is able to maintain the whispier variety - it's almost exclusively used on the containment mounding, which I'd imagine used a sandier soil by design.

Almost seems like anything else would be accidental in any other form.

[RJ_Daley]

Tom D., do you think there is an adequate focus in the turf science field regarding maintenance (or minimal maintenance) to offer ideal native rough in various climates and soils?

I suspect that the turf manager that can oversee ideal native rough in a maintenance meld that compliments the architect's intent is a rare and talented superintendent.

What is the likelyhood that fescue roughs originally specified to be wispy and not overly penal, will not eventually (a few years) convert to thick understories of blues and other turf species, along with a battle to knock down broadleaf weeds?

[Kelly Blake Moran]

Seed at light rate and set up the irrigation system so it does not get fertigated and irrigated.

[Robert Emmons]

At Huntington we seed lightly, irrigate to begin growth then turn off all water, the poorest soil works best such as sand and gravel, we cut it back completely in the winter and cut once more May 1st to 3 inches...after that it never gets totally out of control...RHE

[RJ_Daley]

Robert, how do you deal with broadleaf invasions.  Do you spot spray?

[Robert Emmons]

Weeds are a constant issue...yes we spray

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