Ian,
As you know, today's tree encroachment remains following a significant clearing effort, orchestrated by Graham Cooke's firm, some 7 years ago. Imagine the tree situation during the early- to mid-1990s?!?!
As wonderful as Highlands Links is, the course also provides an illustrative case study on 'what could be'. As is obvious, many more trees need to be felled; the so called 'bunker restoration' undertaken by Cooke & Associates was a missed opportunity; the thoughtless installation of a continusous cart path has scared one ofthe most natural golf courses in the world; and, according to locals, turf conditions were much better (read less Poa, for one) prior to the installation of the course's first comprehensive watering system in 1996.
The new irrigation system was a 'keep up with the Jones'' situation, following the mid-1990s (?) opening of Bell Bay, a lush, green Tom McBroom designed course on Cape Breton Island.
Still, to stay at the Keltic Lodge and play Highlands Links for a few days is one of golf's grand experiences.