From my recent trip to Morfontaine.
It seemed only fitting that my scheduled game at Morfontaine was met with rainy conditions and stiff winds. After all, that weather seems to prevail whenever I catch the European Tour on the tube. Morfontaine lies just outside the village bearing the same name, which puts it 20 km due north of Charles de Gaulle airport and 40 km north of central Paris. It might as well be 200 km, as the setting is very rural and only a smallish, non-presumptuous clubhouse was the only structure visible once inside the gates.
The Duke of Gramont hired Scottish architect Tom Simpson in 1907 to design a nine hole course on this site that served as the Duke's polo club. The original 9 holes remain today, with the first 5 remaining untouched. Due to the shortness of this 9 (2700 yds. from the back), its primary play today is the elderly or a "fun" skins game between the better players.
Golf became the game of choice of The Duke and his entourage, thus Simpson was hired again and constructed an entirely new 18 which was completed in 1927. The rolling terrain ( similar to Inverness, Congressional or Forest Creek) lends itself to a variety of gently sloping holes, either uphill, downhill or side hill. The property also benefits from an underground stream (at least that was my interpretation from my French playing companion) that has created vegetation typically found in southern France. Short rooted pine trees and natural wild grasses (i.e. Prairie Dunes) are common in what amounts to a sandy soil base. The wild natural grasses have been allowed to grow long around bunkers and strategically angle in on some fairways and come entirely across several fairways in 10 yard wide strips, thus creating shot making decisions regarding lay-up or carry. The course also encompasses large boulders that dot the land. These were mostly used as "cosmetic" and lie off of tee boxes or fairways, but number 14, a 380 yard par 4, has one large rock in the center of the fairway.
The greens are extremely large (12,000 sq ft. avg. / my guess), undulating, false fronts on approximately half and were extremely quick, despite playing in a steady sprinkle. The par 70 course plays just shy of 6400 yards from the back tee and carries a rating of 70.9 and a slope of 131. The club currently has 400 "shareholders" of which 80 were defined as frequent golfers. Henri de Lamaze holds the course record, a non-tournament round of 62. He became the first frenchman to be invited to The Masters in 1959.
1. Ease & intimacy of routing: 9 - Though the holes are compressed as courses of that era were, your attention never wanders from the hole you are playing.
2. Quality of feature shaping: 9 - Then entire course appears as if it were dropped from the heavens upon the land which it sits. Nothing artificial here.
3. Natural setting and overall land plan: 10 - I believe the first 10 I've ever recorded. The terrain, vegetation, boulders and seclusion are unbeatable.
4. Interest of greens and surrounding contours: 9 - The true defense of the course due to its length. Chipping and putting demanded touch, feel and imagination.
5. Variety and memorability of par 3s: 7 - Two on the front and three on the back. The front provides a stern test at 195 and 179 yards. The three on the back are all between 150 and 162 and similar. The lone exception is number 13 which has a lone pine directly in the line from tee to green, which presents a visible challenge only.
6. Par 4s: 9 - Everything from 330 to 450 and a good mix of short, medium and long. Number 7 and 8 are hard to beat as back to back par fours anywhere in the world. Both dogleg right to left, slightly uphill and right to left slant off the tee. The approach then swings downhill to picturesque greens.
7. Par 5s: 5 - Only three on the course and all between 480 and 505. No real trouble beyond the greens to make up for the shortness of any of these. Really, the only bland attribute of the course.
8. Conditioning - 10 - I caught it a day after a large European ladies amateur event. One of those courses that looks "rugged", yet is manicured to the hilt.
9. Landscape / tree mgt.: 9 - Nothing fancy or cosmetic here. The wild grasses have been incorporated perfectly.
10. Walk in the park: 10 - God, I want to go back and play in good weather.
Overall - 9
Tom Simpson appears to be a very interesting cat, with his chauffered Rolls Royce, beret and cape. Perhaps an even more creative writer and thinker than Behr, his colaboration with Newton Wethered may be the very best book on the subject. A wonderful artist - are Coore and Crenshaw emulating his bunkering style. Plus an impressive 25 year resume of designs that includes Cruden Bay, New Zealand, Morfontaine and Ballybunion. Why isn't he better known?