Ireland Trip - June 2022

[Jim Sherma]

My son and I will be travelling to Ireland in June making up for the 2020 Scotland trip that didn't happen. While it is not a golf trip per se we will have our clubs and get some rounds in. My son, 15 years old, is not a serious golfer but has a decent swing and can get the ball around, I'm hoping the trip gets him more interested moving forward. Not particularly looking to get beat up with difficult courses and I am thinking I'll take persimmon and blades for myself. This is my 4th Ireland trip and I am comfortable driving around and setting up my own arrangements. The itinerary currently includes the following and any input will help, both golf related and non-golf:


Land in Dublin and head northwest to set up shop in Moville, Co Donegal for the first leg of the trip (5 nights - B&B):
> Thinking of playing 2 days at Greencastle GC
> Sightseeing in Derry/Londonderry
> Day trip to Antrim coast (using ferry) and Giant's Causeway?
> Sightseeing up on the north coast of the Innishowen Peninsula


Second leg (more golf centric) we'll head down to Buncrana, Co Donegal staying at Innishowen Gateway Hotel overlooking Buncrana GC 2-nights
> 2 rounds at North West GC and 2 rounds at Buncrana GC (9-holes) across 3 days


After playing our last day in Buncrana (6/23) we have a hotel at the airport on 6/24 flying out on 6/25. I do not have any reservations for the 23rd at this point. I'd appreciate any feedback as to a nice casual stopover between Buncrana and Dublin. We'll be at the end of the trip looking to kill some time and eat well while not really looking to head into Dublin proper. I've already been to Newgrange, but something along those lines would be of interest.


Fingers crossed that there will be no pandemic surprises and the travel will be easy.
 

[jeffwarne]

5 nights in Moville seems like a lot, though the Inishowen Peninsula is amazing.(as are all the peninsulas in Northern Donegal along the Wild Atlantic Way between Horn Head in Dunfanaghy, the Atlantic Drive near Downings and the area around Portsalon)
I'm a fan of Greencastle GC.


Given you ONLY have two nights in Buncrana, you've made great choices in Northwest GC and Buncrana GC.
If you can squeeze an extra day in/around Buncrana or get an early start, the drive to Portsalon is spectacular from Moville-it's not that much farther than Buncrana.
You could play Portsalon or 9 hole Otway, which is really compact and cool, though Clyde Johnson tells me it has had a few altered for the worse.
You could then take the Rathmullen ferry into Buncrana, which operates in June(I think)
Buncrana is a fun town though.


To your question about the drive to Dublin, Slieve League is NOT on your way, BUT I would highly recommend it, especially on a nongolf trip.


If you're looking for a golf diversion, Layton and Bettystown would seem a natural pre Dublin stop

[Jon Claydon]

Perhaps stay in Malahide and play The Island?

[D_Malley]

This is probably somewhat out of the way based on where you are but we did a recent trip to donegal and played Nairn and Portnoo and Cruit Island (9holes) and it was an awesome experience. Port Salon and Rosapena were also great.

[Charles Lund]

I've spent a lot of time in Donegal and was a member at Ballyliffin for about five years.  I'd say try The Old Links at Ballyliifin, along with Northwest Golf Links which has lots of great holes, and Portsalon.    The Old Links has rumpled fairways and nice greens. 


You can combine gplf on a given day with some nice loop drives on the back roads.  From Ballyliffin, you can drive back to Buncrana through Clonmany to Dunaff and over Mamore Gap, with some nice views of Lough Swilly.  Portsalon is located on the other side of Lough Swilly.  The area north of Letterkenny which includes Sheephaven Bay and Horn Head is pretty special.


I reread Trinity after my first trip to Ireland.  Leon Uris lived in the Derry and Donegal area while doing research for the novel.  It's a good introduction to important parts of the cultural history of the area.


I never brought anything orange or green to wear in Ireland, only black, gray, blue, and a bit of red.


Charles Lund

[Dan_Callahan]

This is probably somewhat out of the way based on where you are but we did a recent trip to donegal and played Nairn and Portnoo and Cruit Island (9holes) and it was an awesome experience.

Completely agree. That was one of the best 27+ hole days of my life. Very excited to get back to N&P this summer to see the changes that were underway last time I was there.

[Tommy Williamsen]

Jim, have you considered flying into Belfast? You seem to be mostly in the north.


The Old Course at Ballyliffen might be fun for your son and he'd get a feel for old time links golf that use the land as it lies.

[Dónal Ó Ceallaigh]

Jim,


If your son isn't totally into golf yet, and you want to avoid the stress of playing some of the more famous courses, you might consider playing the new Pollan Links which is a short nine hole course at Ballyliffin. It's just over 1000 yards in length:


https://www.ballyliffingolfclub.com/pollan-links.html

Otway (just north of Rathmullan) lost a couple of holes in a land dispute, but I read they added a few to the south of the course, and now have 9 holes again. It's a pity the old holes were lost as the new ones look a bit bland and are located on land that is not so interesting. It might be worth gving it a try just for curiousity sake. Bernard Darwin thought it was a crazy course.

[Joe_Tucholski]

Jim I'm going to be in the area the same time as you.  My trip in Ireland is all about golf though with at least a round a day (my wife gets her time in Paris before we arrive in Dublin).


My itinerary isn't firm but I'm playing as a single so have flexibility.  I'm going to try and play each of the courses in the North and West Coast Links (Portrush, Portstewart, Castlerock, Ballyliffin, Portsalon, Donegal, Enniscrone, Carne). A number of the courses do seem booked up or at least not available for online booking.  The pent up demand is exceeding supply in a number of things right now.  2 years of delayed trips all trying to book at the same time.

[Mike Sweeney]

Jim,


This is an inspiring post. There are so many new names to research.


Genuine thanks.

[Mike Leveille]

Jim:


I did a similar trip this past summer with my teenage daughter.  We spent three nights in Buncrana and played North West GC twice.  Very enjoyable links course and a nice low key club.


We took the Rathmullen ferry across the bay for a day trip to Portsalon.  Quite a scenic day.


If you are a fan of Indian food, I’d highly recommend a place called Sherpa on the main street in Buncrana.  Probably the best Indian food I’ve had outside of London (sadly, never been to India).


Enjoy.


Mike

[Jeff Schley]

Taking notes myself as I have only been to Ireland a couple times and so much more to explore. Thanks all.

[jeffwarne]

Jim, have you considered flying into Belfast? You seem to be mostly in the north.

There are no direct flights to Belfast anymore out of the US.(maybe seasonally from Orlando)
It used to be a great place to fly into for Donegal but United stopped in 2017 and Thomas Cook folded and Norweigen stopped around that time as well.
Dublin's not that much farther, but it was always nice flying into a smaller and closer airport at Belfast

[Mark Fedeli]

Jim I'm going to be in the area the same time as you.  My trip in Ireland is all about golf though with at least a round a day (my wife gets her time in Paris before we arrive in Dublin).


My itinerary isn't firm but I'm playing as a single so have flexibility.  I'm going to try and play each of the courses in the North and West Coast Links (Portrush, Portstewart, Castlerock, Ballyliffin, Portsalon, Donegal, Enniscrone, Carne). A number of the courses do seem booked up or at least not available for online booking.  The pent up demand is exceeding supply in a number of things right now.  2 years of delayed trips all trying to book at the same time.

Have faith. I've been researching a similar trip idea for June and have found nearly every course in the northwest to have plenty of tee times available online. That's a big reason I'm targeting that region. Online booking for Carne looked to not be fully released, but with plenty of options at Enniscrone and Sligo I can only assume Carne will have openings too. Not the same story at Portrush and RCD, but saw a lot of times at Portstewart and Castlerock.

[Dónal Ó Ceallaigh]

Jim I'm going to be in the area the same time as you.  My trip in Ireland is all about golf though with at least a round a day (my wife gets her time in Paris before we arrive in Dublin).


My itinerary isn't firm but I'm playing as a single so have flexibility.  I'm going to try and play each of the courses in the North and West Coast Links (Portrush, Portstewart, Castlerock, Ballyliffin, Portsalon, Donegal, Enniscrone, Carne). A number of the courses do seem booked up or at least not available for online booking.  The pent up demand is exceeding supply in a number of things right now.  2 years of delayed trips all trying to book at the same time.

Joe,


You should definitely consider St. Patrick's at Rosapenna. Would be a shame to miss it as you pass through Donegal.

[jeffwarne]

Jim I'm going to be in the area the same time as you.  My trip in Ireland is all about golf though with at least a round a day (my wife gets her time in Paris before we arrive in Dublin).


My itinerary isn't firm but I'm playing as a single so have flexibility.  I'm going to try and play each of the courses in the North and West Coast Links (Portrush, Portstewart, Castlerock, Ballyliffin, Portsalon, Donegal, Enniscrone, Carne). A number of the courses do seem booked up or at least not available for online booking.  The pent up demand is exceeding supply in a number of things right now.  2 years of delayed trips all trying to book at the same time.

Yes, it will be a busy summer.
I snuck in a trip last September to avoid the pent up demand and it was glorious.
Hopefully it all sorts itself out and the clubs and travellers are successful.


Joe,


You should definitely consider St. Patrick's at Rosapenna. Would be a shame to miss it as you pass through Donegal.

[Jeff Schley]

Seeing all kinds of award availability from US gateways to Ireland for June. Check out United/AA, haven't looked at Delta. Should be easy to make happen with miles.

[Jim Sherma]

Thanks to all for the input - my commentary on them:


I considered Belfast for the flights but Dublin was cheaper to get in and out of. I was constrained to British Air as I was using vouchers from a 2020 trip that we had scheduled up to Inverness. The $-value of the vouchers did not allow us to replicate that itinerary and Dublin was the best option. Once I had Dublin locked in the question was what itinerary made the most sense. Hopefully I do not get burned by any testing protocols come June and proof of vaccination will suffice for entry and exit from the Republic of Ireland.


My last Ireland trip involved counties Mayo and Sligo and was a wonderful golf trek (Lahinch after landing at Shannon followed by Mulranny, Carne(x2), Enniscrone, Co Sligo(x2), Strandhill(x2)). I definitely am looking forward to the west coast of Donegal and am saving it for my next trip with a friend whose family is from that area. Probably looking at 2023 or 4 for the Sligo->Ballyliffin links-fest.


I agree that 5-nights in Moville feels like a lot. However I am not a big fan of changing lodging if I don't need to and feel like there is enough close by to not get bored. A stretch of lousy weather would be the fly in the ointment with Derry as the closest city to find inside stuff to do.


Charles - I like your advice on sartorial color palate. No reason to create a situation when you don't have to. Kind of like not wearing a New York Rangers jersey to a Flyers game - probably nothing happens, but why bother.


Mike - thanks for the Indian food advice in Buncrana - I'm a big fan


I might just leave the last evening unscheduled for now and see what works for us. I have had Laytown and Bettystown on my radar for a while but do not want to overschedule the golf and make it a grind.


 

[Sean_A]

Thanks to all for the input - my commentary on them:

I considered Belfast for the flights but Dublin was cheaper to get in and out of. I was constrained to British Air as I was using vouchers from a 2020 trip that we had scheduled up to Inverness. The $-value of the vouchers did not allow us to replicate that itinerary and Dublin was the best option. Once I had Dublin locked in the question was what itinerary made the most sense. Hopefully I do not get burned by any testing protocols come June and proof of vaccination will suffice for entry and exit from the Republic of Ireland.

My last Ireland trip involved counties Mayo and Sligo and was a wonderful golf trek (Lahinch after landing at Shannon followed by Mulranny, Carne(x2), Enniscrone, Co Sligo(x2), Strandhill(x2)). I definitely am looking forward to the west coast of Donegal and am saving it for my next trip with a friend whose family is from that area. Probably looking at 2023 or 4 for the Sligo->Ballyliffin links-fest.

I agree that 5-nights in Moville feels like a lot. However I am not a big fan of changing lodging if I don't need to and feel like there is enough close by to not get bored. A stretch of lousy weather would be the fly in the ointment with Derry as the closest city to find inside stuff to do.

Charles - I like your advice on sartorial color palate. No reason to create a situation when you don't have to. Kind of like not wearing a New York Rangers jersey to a Flyers game - probably nothing happens, but why bother.

Mike - thanks for the Indian food advice in Buncrana - I'm a big fan

I might just leave the last evening unscheduled for now and see what works for us. I have had Laytown and Bettystown on my radar for a while but do not want to overschedule the golf and make it a grind.

You could play Baltray on the last day and kip in the dormy house. It's a relaxing place. It's also not far to Dublin or the airport.

Ciao

[Charles Lund]

Moville is a decent base if you want an Inishowen Peninsula experience.  You are not far from Carndonagh which is a small Irish town of about 3000 and not far from Ballyliffin and Clonmany.  You have good options for connecting to Buncrana with different loop drives.  I had a vacation rental on several stays in Dunaff with a view of Lough Swilly, which is described as a fjord in the Republic of Ireland.  Staying for an extended period in a rural scenic area is a good way to enjoy an aspect of Ireland I came to appreciate.


I never spent time in Derry in all my trips.  Ballyliffin had members from Northern Ireland and the Republic.  I spent little time discussing Irish political issues but got an earful on many occasions about U.S. gun laws and other issues, once I got to know some people individually.  Many people in that area know the U.S. well and it was common for people of my age group to have moved to the U.S. in the 70s or 80s and later return after living there for a decade or two.  Many have extended family in all parts of the world and travel long distances.


I am not Irish but had 16 years of Catholic schools and about half my classmates were Irish.  So going to Ireland was like a class reunion.


Charles Lund