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Bill Brightly

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East Lothian golf trip
« on: December 16, 2019, 04:09:16 PM »
I was asked to fill in on a golf trip to East Lothian and since it will include Muirfield and North Berwick, I said yes in two minutes. Playing those two courses twice each, and also Dunbar, Renaissance, Archerfield and Drumbarnie.

I'm a little bummed that Gullane not on the list. I'm not organizing this trip, but are there any courses that you would add or delete? Maybe I'll come in a day or two early. Please respond or private message me with your thoughts.

Thanks!

Adam Lawrence

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2019, 04:31:20 PM »
Bill, you're aware that Dumbarnie is in Fife, not East Lothian?
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
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Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Tim Gavrich

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2019, 04:45:51 PM »
Just make sure you eat at The Lobster Shack in North Berwick. The best I've ever had.
Senior Writer, GolfPass

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2019, 04:49:35 PM »
Just make sure you eat at The Lobster Shack in North Berwick. The best I've ever had.


Where's that?  I love lobster, and I have never had it in North Berwick.  The Indian place in the center of town was our go-to dinner place after playing golf until dark, while building The Renaissance Club.


Jason Topp

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2019, 04:51:00 PM »
If you are travelling in the summer, squeeze in an evening 18 at Gullane.  I found the course fairly unremarkable but the setting is nice on a beautiful day.


The rest of the itinerary looks very nice in a high-end sort of way.  I would say relax and enjoy it.


I have never heard of Dumbarnie and was not overly excited about what I could decipher of Archerfield. 

Tom_Doak

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2019, 04:52:04 PM »
I was asked to fill in on a golf trip to East Lothian and since it will include Muirfield and North Berwick, I said yes in two minutes. Playing those two courses twice each, and also Dunbar, Renaissance, Archerfield and Drumbarnie.

I'm a little bummed that Gullane not on the list. I'm not organizing this trip, but are there any courses that you would add or delete? Maybe I'll come in a day or two early. Please respond or private message me with your thoughts.

Thanks!


Gullane and Kilspindie are the two other best choices.  Kilspindie is not "championship" length [or anywhere close to it], but it's a beautiful place on a nice day, and a great example of how golf should be in terms of simplicity and speed of play.


It all depends on the company you are keeping; they're already somewhat suspect for having Archerfield on the list.  Is that where you're staying?

Sean_A

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2019, 05:32:01 PM »


I'm a little bummed that Gullane not on the list. I'm not organizing this trip, but are there any courses that you would add or delete? Maybe I'll come in a day or two early. Please respond or private message me with your thoughts.

Thanks!

Bill

If you are considering an extra day or or two I would add Goswick. If Dumbarnie is the first or last course, add Elie.

Tom

Lobster Shack is at the end of the Harbour. Food is served from a caravan, but there is a glass shelter to eat in.

Happy Hockey
« Last Edit: December 25, 2019, 05:17:19 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Steve Sayre

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2019, 05:44:00 PM »
Had a very enjoyable week in EL last June --- what a great golf destination. i second the Gullane 1 recommendation. Also thought Luffness New was interesting if you are looking to add. Lorne Smith has a nice write-up in his newsletter: https://finegolf.co.uk/golf-courses/luffness-new/


The Bonnie Badger in Gullane ("Scottish Gastro Pub of the year") is a VERY nice, albeit expensive, place to dine.


We had perfect weather, and I wish you the same....

Bill Brightly

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2019, 06:05:57 PM »
Thanks guys, GCA always delivers! Which course has a famous pub near a green where players can get  a drink mid-round?

MCirba

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2019, 07:00:35 PM »
Don't miss Gullane, Bill.


Good Haggis in the restaurant that was the former clubhouse over by the Children's Course, as well. 


Lobster at North Berwick sounds like more pleasure in one day than any of us really deserve. 


Go the Calvinist punishment route.   ;D
"Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent" - Calvin Coolidge

https://cobbscreek.org/

Ira Fishman

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2019, 07:42:39 PM »
Play Kilspindie even if you have to break away from your group. It is a quick round. And a treat.


Ira

Bryan Izatt

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2019, 07:51:36 PM »



Drumbarnie is an odd choice being in Fife and a 2 hour drive away from the other courses and not opening until the spring - a new manufactured course although it looks nice in the pictures.


Tiger Coast, the Indian restaurant in NB was gone last September when I was in NB.  Grace of India in Aberlady is a good alternative if Indian food is to your taste.


The course with the pub by the 4th green is Musselburgh Old, although I'm nor sure the pub, Mrs Forman's is still in existance.  There was some talk a few years ago about building housing on the site.  The course is worth a visit for a quick 9 holes.  You used to be able to rent hickories if you want.


John Emerson

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2019, 07:57:14 PM »
If you skip Kilspindie you’ll regret it later
“There’s links golf, then everything else.”

mike_beene

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #13 on: December 16, 2019, 09:19:39 PM »
On a clear day the view from the 7th tee at Gullane is worth a trip by itself.

Mark Pearce

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #14 on: December 17, 2019, 03:38:25 AM »
Gullane is a dumb blonde and one of the most over-rated courses on this site.  Don't be too upset to miss it.  Archerfield is an odd inclusion and Dumbarnie, as others have said, isn't in East Lothian.....
In June I will be riding the first three stages of this year's Tour de France route for charity.  630km (394 miles) in three days, with 7800m (25,600 feet) of climbing for the William Wates Memorial Trust (https://rideleloop.org/the-charity/) which supports underprivileged young people.

Tony_Muldoon

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2019, 05:04:03 AM »
Mmm the lobster shack.  In theory it should be on of my favourite places.


In practice...on the kind of day you want to eat there it's often popular and the seating is limited. I've walked away a few times...


Finally got to eat there the day before this year's Buda.  I'd taken the bus to Gullane, and had a lovely walk back along the beach in less than two hours. Just after 12_it only had a few customers and so I thought my lucky day.


The lobster was good, the chips were soggy and the white wine  in the  plastic glass was warm before the food arrived.  All eaten inside a plastic tent. Cost more than £30 (from memory).  For a bit more I could have eaten in Osteria.   
Let's make GCA grate again!

Jon Wiggett

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2019, 07:39:01 AM »
Gullane is a dumb blonde and one of the most over-rated courses on this site.  Don't be too upset to miss it.  Archerfield is an odd inclusion and Dumbarnie, as others have said, isn't in East Lothian.....



I'll second that. Gullane 1 is fine if you are either list ticking or a low handicapper playing well but 2 and 3 are both more enjoyable. Make the effort to play Kilspindie and Musselburgh Old as well as Elie if you are up there.


In the end if you make the effort to fly to a foreign country why not try the local offer instead of going for the world corporate thing even if it means not getting the little bag of goodies.

Sean_A

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #17 on: December 17, 2019, 07:44:45 AM »
Gullane is a dumb blonde...

Thats a bit harsh.  Gullane 1 is a very good course, but perhaps lacking the sui generis of some other courses mentioned. 

Happy Hockey
« Last Edit: December 17, 2019, 08:41:44 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

MCirba

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #18 on: December 17, 2019, 08:38:47 AM »
Gullane is a dumb blonde and one of the most over-rated courses on this site.  Don't be too upset to miss it.  Archerfield is an odd inclusion and Dumbarnie, as others have said, isn't in East Lothian.....


No one ever regretted time spent with Marilyn Monroe.  It makes you feel alive.
"Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent" - Calvin Coolidge

https://cobbscreek.org/

David Jones

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #19 on: December 17, 2019, 11:44:16 AM »
When are you coming over Bill? I assume it's after May 16th if you're seeing Dumbarnie. I live in Gullane and would be delighted to help out if I can.


For what it's worth I find the Lobster Shack a touch over-rated, the Indian restaurant in North Berwick a touch closed and Gullane 1 a  touch hard done by here.


Feel free to send me a DM if you would like me to hook you up at Gullane (1, 2 or 3!) or any recommendations for food or drink.

Simon Holt

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #20 on: December 18, 2019, 11:05:03 AM »
Bill,


You've got a great trip lined up and since you're along for the ride there is no real point in suggesting changes to what your organiser has in the books.  You'll love it!


More generally, if someone was to ask me for East Lothian trip advise for a week coming from the US, then this would be it:




Monday:
Arrive into EDI, play Dunbar to kill the one drive of the trip (only 40 mins from EDI, then 20 mins to NB after the round), stay in North Berwick for the 5 nights - lots of options for a bed, food and drink - plus the train into Edinburgh.


Dunbar may be guilty of a slow start but whether it be psychological or not, once you go through the wall to the 4th it picks up immediately with a fun short par 4, an interesting raised green par 3 over what would otherwise be flat land, then you navigate between the coast and a huge stone wall for the next few holes.


The highlights for me are hole 4, the punchbowl style green on 7, the drive on 9, 12 which wouldn't be out of place on many coastal courses, another cool green on 13, then the par 3 16th has an optical illusion quality going on with the aforementioned wall behind the green that tends to play with the golfer's mind.


Tuesday:
Gullane No.1 and No.2 - they do a deal on both courses in a day.  Actually, they do a week pass for the 3 courses so if you have time/energy to squeeze in No.3 one day its a fun, quick round. 


For some reason No.1 gets a hard time and I can see why in some instances but it's still 3rd or 4th place in East Lothian for me which makes it well worth the visit.  2, 4, 9, 12, 13, 15 will be the more memorable holes for most.  15 green is wild.


Gullane No.2 is oft remembered for the hike up the 3rd hole but once on top, the holes flow nicely enough.  The really interesting stretch comes at the long downhill par 3 11th, long par 4 12th out to Aberlady Bay, 13th back up the hill, then the hard dogleg left 14th.  It then runs out of steam but perfectly pleasurable and a great walk.


Weds:
Kilspindie as the charmer - still under the radar to the masses and buckets of fun with at least a handful of very interesting holes. 4, 8 and 18 will put stars in your eyes.  Nice easy walk, fantastic views and as authentic a Scottish clubhouse as you'll get to experience.


Musselburgh Old for 9 holes with hickories if you want to tick a box.  I love how hickory golf can reset your scoring expectations, plus there are a couple of greens out there that are pretty interesting such as 4 and 6.


If Musselburgh doesn't appeal to you and you're a 36 hole a day golfer then Luffness New (1894!) fits in nicely here but Weds afternoon can be a popular member time to play.  The par 3 3rd always makes me think, then the 5th is one of the stronger holes off the tee with a very interesting green at the end of it.  I think the 7th here leaves the 7th at Gullane No.1 for dead; almost as good a vista and far better hole in my opinion, as it's not as "hit and hope" as 7 at G No.1.


8, 10, 11, 17 are the other strong takeaways from Luffness New.  Mainly for interesting greens but the tee shots on 8 and 10 provide entertainment, along with the semi-blind approach and bunkering on 17.  The 11th is a very well bunkered short par 4 with yet another interesting green.


Thurs:
Splash the cash and do the 36 holer at Muirfield with the lunch.
Muirfield is often lauded for the routing but the stand-alone holes are excellent in terms of variety and interest.  The set of par-3 are very well bunkered, the par 4s stout but for me the par-5s are the unsung heros of the course.  Each one different in challenge from the last and how many courses can you say that about?  I often think they must be the hardest holes to design and keep the golfers engaged that can't go fo the green in two.
Muirfield is certainly intimidating off the tee but once you're down the hole you invariably find that the fairways are far more generous than reputed on these pages.  It's the best day in golf for me, the PM foursomes being a must not miss round of the week.


Friday:
A week in East Lothian has to finish at North Berwick and why not treat yourself to 36 holes here too?  A great deal with the day ticket.  It's much discussed and I'm unashamedly biased, but the best back-9 I've seen if it's architectural interest you are after.  My favourite hole on the course is the 12th but 11 might just be the best par 5 in East Lothian, with the diagonal ridge guarding the front of the green being the feature that dictates success or failure.  I don't need to talk about 2, 3, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 and then 18 which in some quarters is deemed a weak finish; I class as a wonderful matchplay finisher. 


Pound for pound, NB might be the best matchplay course you could ever play a match over.  The Walker Cup might be the only men's event the course could hold in the modern day and one that I'd love to see.


Sat:
Fly home




If you want to spend a little more and/or see some of Tom's work then Renaissance is most affordable on a Monday or Wednesday which dovetails nicely with the Muirfield visitor days.  They have a one time experience so access is granted if you've not visited before, and simply fill out a form.  I confuse myself with talk of Old 4, New 1 and Tournament 10 (all the same hole)...but in terms of the hole numbers the members play, then 1, 4, 7, 8, 14 and the 15th and the holes I really like.


That week of suggestions assumes you are golf daft and want to play until you drop.  I'm more like 18-36-18-36-18, personally.


Dinners:
££££ = Bonnie Badger, Greywalls, La Potiniere
£££ = Osteria, The Main Course, The Old Clubhouse, The Grange
££ = Herringbone, Zittos, Poon Thais, Nether Abbey, The Rocketeer (sit down version of Lobster Shack 100 yards away from the Harbour)
£ = Turkish Kebab House does really good fish and chips, especially around 5pm when it's all fresh out of the fryer!


The number of good courses is not just limited to the above but you wouldn't necessarily need to rent a car if you followed that list.  You could taxi everywhere within 10-15 minutes and have airport transfers lined up in advance. 


If you stay in North Berwick there is The Marine, North Berwick Golf Lodge B&B, Nether Abbey and plenty of others you can search for online.  Gullane and Aberlady are lovely wee villages, but for ease and a bit more atmosphere then NB wins hands down - that said, in my list of better restaurants, Gullane wins out!


For the whisky lovers Glenkinchie Distillery is 20 mins away from NB and they do tours and tastings.


Hopefully that is of help to someone out there.





2011 highlights- Royal Aberdeen, Loch Lomond, Moray Old, NGLA (always a pleasure), Muirfield Village, Saucon Valley, watching the new holes coming along at The Renaissance Club.

Dan_Callahan

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #21 on: December 18, 2019, 11:09:54 AM »
I was in that area two summers ago. I would absolutely do a 36-hole day on Gullane 1 and 2.

Aaron Hanson

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #22 on: December 18, 2019, 01:18:09 PM »
Kilspindie is definitely worth the effort. Don’t be fooled by the yardage. It might also go without saying, but 36 at NB is highly recommended

Jon Wiggett

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #23 on: December 18, 2019, 02:28:56 PM »

Simon H,


I think the problem that Gullane 1 has is that it over promises and under delivers which is always a disappointment. What compounds this is that it has the makings of a fabulous course but it is ruined almost entirely by the club's desire to make it a really tough course. If they were to widen the playing corridors it would improve the course no end.


Jon

Simon Holt

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Re: East Lothian golf trip
« Reply #24 on: December 18, 2019, 02:53:26 PM »
Hi John,


I'm all ears!  Please go on - I'm genuinely interested for the GB crowd to talk about a course that most of us know really well. 


I think that I know what Mark P is getting at.  Even though I think dumb blonde is harsh, there are holes where you sit back and literally admire the view which may mask some of the deficiencies.  I always really enjoy my round there and think it's a very good course but there's not one hole that fascinates me from a playing perspective.


What examples on specific holes are the ones you feel they could widen?  And what improvement would that bring?


Simon



2011 highlights- Royal Aberdeen, Loch Lomond, Moray Old, NGLA (always a pleasure), Muirfield Village, Saucon Valley, watching the new holes coming along at The Renaissance Club.

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