A trip to England & Scotland, or: Fantastic Courses and Where to Find Them

[Eric Smith]

Last week I got home from a whirlwind tour of English and Scottish golf courses and have endeavored to post SOMETHING here in order to share the adventure with my fellow GCAers but time has not been on my side. First and foremost let me say this - if it were not for Golf Club Atlas - the probability that I would've taken THIS trip is virtually nil. Everything, every great course, great town, great meal, great laugh, great person(!) I met along the way, as well as those I went on the trip with (other than my best friend of 23 years), all of it, is due to this website and its many contributors and for that I wish to say THANK YOU, GCA and thank you, Ran and Ben.

It's funny, I know Ran prides himself on his depth of knowledge when it comes to his beloved English golf, so during one of our rounds I sent him an email titled "Where Am I" along with a photo and was happy to see him reply almost immediately but was aghast when he didn't bother to answer the %$@& question!!








It's been 10 days since I left St Andrews, my beard (I did my best to pay homage to Old Tom) is now shorn and my beer-stained cashmere sweaters are back from the cleaners and tucked away in the dresser until winter. I've started uploading my photos to photobucket and am ready to get some semblance of a tour underway. Hope you enjoy.

---

This trip came about two summers ago while in California with friends playing some of the great golf courses out there. We had just played Cypress Point and were in the midst of a typical post round 'where does it rank' discussion when I asked the guys if they had played the Old Course (which at the time was, and still is, my favorite) and they said they hadn't, so I got the ball rolling shortly thereafter.

First, I got in touch with Sheena Willoughby, proprietor of the Dunvegan Hotel in St Andrews, and reserved the 3-bedroom Auchterlonie Suite, since, at the time, we were a party of three. Fast forward to summer 2015 and we're all watching the Open at St Andrews on TV and would later be applying for the Links Trust Advanced Tee Times when we asked more friends to come and be a part of the trip. Some really great GCA friends signed up, Mike Hogan, Brian Finn, Josh Bills - but it was when John Kavanaugh got on board, that's when I knew the trip would be extraordinary, knowing that post-embargo JakaB would fall hard for the spirit(s?) of St Andrews. I emailed Sheena again and she suggested we take the other five rooms at the hotel, so that's what we decided to do - we'd have the entire hotel to ourselves.

Fortunately our application was drawn in the lottery last September and we had our Old Course times booked in addition to each of us purchasing a 3-Day Links Ticket allowing us to play the other courses in town during our stay. So that was to be the trip. Or so I thought!

As is typical for many GCAers when planning overseas trips, the map of the UK always looks smaller than it is and the 31 Flavors in the Confidential Guide are so appetizing you just want to gobble up as many as you can in one sitting. So my cohort, Barry Doyle, and I came up with a plan, wrote a few letters and before long our trip went from flying in and out of Edinburgh for a St Andrews trip, to a more English golf focused driving affair, starting in London, then over to Deal/Sandwich/Rye and then working our way north to Scotland.

We met in New York and flew from JFK to Gatwick, where we rented a very nice Volvo suv and got underway. Barry had never driven in the UK prior to this trip but he adapted quickly and ended up doing all of the driving and did a remarkable job.

Tip of the Day - pay the upcharge for the navigation system! The gal's voice guidance was PRICELESS, especially on the roundabouts throughout England. Can't imagine doing the trip without her. I know Barry can't.

Courses played:

Garden City GC (NY) Ok, backing up a bit, we had a looong layover in New York, so what better way to spend a few hours in town than getting in a round of golf at this amazing club. Having our man on the ground in NY, Cheech(!), pick us up at our airport(s) and chauffeur us to and from Garden City was top notch. I love this guy. Pretty sure he feels the same.



Cheech! - no offense!

Wow, Garden City - playing here, Wolf Point, and Yeamans in the same year has been a real treat. I love the epic scale of these more low-profile designs, proving that it doesn't have to be big (dunes, hills, valleys, etc) to be epic! That we would soon be boarding a plane to play in the Surrey heathlands was fairly ironic as well. No heather here but the feel of the place was on my mind during my round at Walton Heath. Just lovely.



4th hole GCGC

Unfortunately, a deluge cut short our game at the thirteenth so we weren't able to finish. Would've loved to hit the shot into the home hole. Or would I have?! Has anyone here skulled one into the crowd on the patio???

A shower, couple of drinks and a proper clubhouse tour was plenty to get me fired up for our 11PM flight. Lots of history there at GCGC, history with many of the clubs/courses we were about to play as well. I loved that.

Tip of the Day (#2): Next time you go to England, look at flying Norwegian Airlines from JFK to Gatwick. The flight is on a 787 Dreamliner, and the front of the plane - they don't call it First Class, but Premium Class - is typically about the same cost as a flight in coach on United. Here you get to sit in pairs, in nice wide seats that recline a whole lot more than in coach. It makes all the difference in getting a decent nights sleep.



I'll be back. On deck:

Walton Heath (New)

To follow:

Royal Cinque Ports
Royal St George's
Rye
Hollinwell
Woodhall Spa (Hotchkin)
Ganton
North Berwick (West Links)
St. Andrews (Old Course)
St. Andrews (New Course)

[David_Tepper]

Eric -

Looking forward to your posts. Thanks for the pic and info on Norwegian Air. They are now flying from Oakland to Gatwick London and the airfares are very competitive.

DT 

[David Davis]

Eric, looking forward to this thread. It would be great if all the guys chime in. I'm dying to hear JK say that he's hooked and will return as links golf is the greatest thing since sliced bread!


Nice to see Cheech in good form. His hands look healthy as well.


You might have to wait another month to hear from Barry again. There are still some courses left on the planet for him to visit on this trip.

[John Kavanaugh]

Eric, looking forward to this thread. It would be great if all the guys chime in. I'm dying to hear JK say that he's hooked and will return as links golf is the greatest thing since sliced bread!

I'm already looking at going back in November. I'd like to get back without the tourists and experience some bad weather. Golf is golf but only the Scots are the Scots. I've never spent so much time so not pissed off.

[William_G]

thanks Eric

St. Andrews would be a great place to retire and my wife would be all in

[Charles Lund]

I ran a comparison of British Air Premium Economy fares between SFO and LHR versus Norwegian Air between SFO and LGW.  Departure was on September 1st and return was on Seotember 22.  British Air had 777 going in one direction because Airbus A380 flight very exoensive and Airbus A380 in other direction.

Savings was $500 on Norwegian Air.  Norwegian Air was a little over $1600.

The premium cabin on Norwegian looked fresh and nice.  The BA premium economy cabin on the 777 I flew was ok but not great.

Looks like Norwegian gives you seat selection at a low price but maybe with premium it is included.

Charles Lund

[Thomas Dai]

Great start to a thread Eric. I'm looking forward for the reading the rest. Sounds like an epic trip.


Incidentally Viking Way got me thinking of Monty Pythons "bloody Vikings" which in turn, if you know the sketch, reminded me of spam, which got me wondering if the course is perhaps Woodhall Spa(m). Groans heard all around the globe!


Atb

[Josh Bills]

Thank you to Eric, it was an unforgettable experience for not only the golf but the truly wonderful people on the trip and in Scotland.  I hope I am lucky enough to make it back there.  I will chime in once the journey reaches Scotland, as that was where I joined his truly epic journey.  For the record I would recommend getting a GPS as well and will explain why later.   

[Tim Gallant]

Thank you to Eric, it was an unforgettable experience for not only the golf but the truly wonderful people on the trip and in Scotland.  I hope I am lucky enough to make it back there.  I will chime in once the journey reaches Scotland, as that was where I joined his truly epic journey.  For the record I would recommend getting a GPS as well and will explain why later.   

Oh no Josh! I am now imagining the trip to St Andrews was not the walk in the park that we imagined?

[Jon Heise]

E- you're kinda my hero. 

[Eric Smith]

JK,

November - really? That is incredible. Good for you.

Charles,

Thanks for sharing that comparative analysis. Seat selection is indeed included when purchasing Premium class. Two checked bags as well. It really is a nice flying experience. We flew JFK to Stockholm last summer with Norwegian (again in Premium class) and I was hooked. Great value.

Thomas,

Of course I know the skit and you are correct - Woodhall Spa(m). Somewhere down that road the Knights who say Ni are surely lurking about.

I'm driving to pick up my daughter at camp today and will get the tour underway when I get back later this evening. Thanks.

[Josh Bills]

Tim,


If my phone were not dead and no GPS I would have been fine, alas, I was not.  I made it across the Bridge fine, and then all went South, or West, or whatever direction it was.  Know it was not your fault, entirely mine.


Josh

[Tony_Muldoon]

Looking forward to this one.



Small roads mean small speeds.

Rye
Hollinwell
Woodhall Spa (Hotchkin)
Ganton

[Bill_McBride]

thanks Eric

St. Andrews would be a great place to retire and my wife would be all in

The winter is reminiscent of Oregon in winter.........

[Rich Goodale]

I meant to say.....


I've spent a fair amount of time in both places and, Scotland in the winter is more similar (in weather and days of sunlight) to Juneau rather than Portland........

[Niall C]

Good stuff Eric, looking forward to hearing all about the trip. Unfortunately I missed you at Leven but it was great to meet up with Josh and Mike, as well as Jon Byron, another US gca'er who managed to sneak in a round during his business trip.

Cheers

Niall

[Eric Smith]

London

On our arrival day, Barry took the car down to Pulborough and played West Sussex and I Ubered to Earlsfield to meet my sister, her husband, and my niece (and their dog!) at their favorite neighborhood watering hole. It was when that Royal & Irish, and former GCAer, Brian Sheehy, rolled up with his posse that the speed of consumption got dialed in to tilt mode.





The Italy v Germany game was on the televisions in the beer garden and the crowd was seriously into it. I don't know squat about soccer but the atmosphere reminded me of watching an SEC rivalry game in September. Pretty neat.





Many many drinks later and boom it's midnight and the pub is closing. We walked outside and Sheehy says see you at 10 at the club (Walton Heath) got into his Uber with his mates and I got into mine.

Did I even sleep on the plane? Hard to tell. Fell asleep in two seconds when I hit the bed at my hotel. Boom it's 9AM. "Rally man rally!!" It's time for some golf!!!





But where's Sheehy???

[MKrohn]

Eric, am new to the forum, looks like a fantastic trip albeit the travel already has me wincing.


i am about to go to Ireland, a tour I didn't organise, we, like you, are hopping about, a mate is doing a tour a month later where they are playing less courses but having two days at the ones they like.


Seems the older I get I like the idea of a base and play whatever is about rather than a mad rush, for instance, you could easily spend 2 weeks around North Berwick.


Sorry to jack your thread, guess my question is what would you do differently (if anything) next time.


Cheers

[John Mayhugh]

That's one ambitious trip, but I understand it.  Shame you missed out on Pulborough.

I really like this pic of the putting green at Walton Heath.  It's a lot of fun if you have some time to kill, and the location is perfect.

The sign at the first of your post is from Woodhall Spa?

[Jason Thurman]

[RJ_Daley]

ONe of the things that jumped out at me is when Eric started posting his whereabouts, and I thought;  gee did he and his posse just jump on a jet and go straight from 5th Major to England/Scotland?

The intrepid golfer society... 

With only a few courses played, and far too small of a sample, I still look back and say, 'damn that Leven was good'.  It seemed so authentic to my preconceived notions of whee a Scottish or even possibly English avid resident golfer would be a loyal member. 

Regards St. Andrews as a retirement locale, I found it so much more than just a seminal golf course pilgrimage location.  The town is steeped with historical sites and international intellectuals through a world class university.  The people seemed very kind and welcoming.  As a life long resident of Wisconsin, I find it hard to be dissuaded from the prospect of a St. Andrews 'winter'. 

As some of our GCA GB&I contributors have shown, it seems pretty easy to jump a cheap Eurostyle flight to sunny Spain or the Med., if the grey old toons begin to wear on you. 

[Eric Smith]

my question is what would you do differently (if anything) next time.

Honestly can't think of anything I'd have done differently. Maybe stay a day longer at Number One!

That's one ambitious trip, but I understand it.  Shame you missed out on Pulborough.

I really like this pic of the putting green at Walton Heath.  It's a lot of fun if you have some time to kill, and the location is perfect.

The sign at the first of your post is from Woodhall Spa?

Hey good of you to chime in, John. Yeah - ambitious for sure - but the trip exceeded my expectations in every way. Even the driving, well, riding, from my perspective. So much beauty to take in throughout the English countryside to go along with some amazing weather we were fortunate to enjoy the entire trip. I particularly loved the drive from Woodhall to Ganton.


I agree, the configuration of the clubhouse buildings and putting green at Walton Heath is perfect. I sat on the patio and watched Barry putt for half an hour while I scarfed down the full English breakfast and more than a few cups of coffee.


Yep, Woodhall Spa. Viking Way runs between the 17th green and 18th tee of the Hotchkin.

ONe of the things that jumped out at me is when Eric started posting his whereabouts, and I thought;  gee did he and his posse just jump on a jet and go straight from 5th Major to England/Scotland?

Dick,


Pretty much! I was home for four days in between trips. Home for a lot longer now.

[Eric Smith]

Drive times


The legs between destinations ranged from an hour to 3 hours:


Walton Heath to Deal: 1.5 hrs
Deal to Rye: 1 hr
Deal to Hollinwell: 3 hrs
Hollinwell to Woodhall Spa: 1 hr 15
Woodhall Spa to Ganton: 2 hrs
Ganton to Bamburgh: 3 hrs
Bamburgh to N. Berwick: 1 hr
N. Berwick to St Andrews: 1.5 hrs *1 hr


*Simon Holt was driving

[Josh Bills]

Interesting my drive time from N. Berwick (Kilspindie) to St. Andrews approximately 2.25 hours.  I dropped Tim Gallant off at the train station near Aberlady after a wonderful round at Kilspindie and felt pretty good about my understanding of where I was going.  I crossed the Firth of Forth Bridge and missed any signs for St. Andrews.  I went north for a brief time and realized something wasn't right.  I actually pulled over at something of a Home Depot type store and found a security guard and asked him for directions.  I should have known to not listen to him when I asked him directions to St. Andrews and he gave me a puzzled look.  He then attempted to pull directions up on his Iphone, mind you my phone was dead and I, unlike JakaB, did not get a GPS.  Next time I will.  He proceeded to type in Caint Andews on his phone.  I don't know if his fingers missed the S or if that is proper spelling.  He said go one way and I listened.  45 minutes later I was passing the Forth Bridge again.  I had a crude map from the rental car place (oh yea, I was driving myself with a manual) and couldn't read the road numbers but saw Kirkaldy and headed that way.  I'm not sure if I took the A92 or A915 out of Kirkaldy but was at least going the right direction.  I made the mistake of turning into the driving range area upon arriving at St. Andrews but at least realized I was getting close and could see the R&A Clubhouse off in the distance.  Thankfully the Dunvegan was easy to find and I did arrive safely, though tattered at 11:45 p.m and a Dunvegan full of cheers for my arrival. 


Lessons learned: Get a GPS.  Make sure your phone is charged.  Their roads get dark at night and are not the best.  Not sure how speed cameras work, but have a feeling if they were working my rental car amassed quite a few.

[Wayne Wiggins, Jr.]

Drive times


The legs between destinations ranged from an hour to 3 hours:


Walton Heath to Deal: 1.5 hrs
Deal to Rye: 1 hr
Deal to Hollinwell: 3 hrs
Hollinwell to Woodhall Spa: 1 hr 15
Woodhall Spa to Ganton: 2 hrs
Ganton to Bamburgh: 3 hrs
Bamburgh to N. Berwick: 1 hr
N. Berwick to St Andrews: 1.5 hrs *1 hr


*Simon Holt was driving

A quick threadjack... contemplating a trip to England in 2018 (i.e. London heathland courses and then SE Links courses). Question about the drivetime... can one base the SE out of Sandwich or Deal and get over to play Rye, or is it better to stay in Rye for 1 night? We're looking at minimizing the number of hotels so that we can just have two bases of operation.