To Durness and Back - An NC500 Road Trip - Brora is All That

[Mike Hendren]

Age the age of 12, just before discovery of the two great aromas - perfume and gasoline, I was introduced to the game of golf by my father.  To put it simply, I fell in love with the game.  My first book was a collection of essays by Herbert Warren Wind, including his well known story North to the Links of Dornoch.  Forty-five years later, inspired by Kevin Markham's excellent thread - http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,61928.0.html and so many of you my wife and I landed in Inverness for a coastal road trip around the northwestern Scottish Highlands for year four of my ten years plan. 

The route - www.northcoast500.com has garnered significant acclaim and rightfully so.  A month afer returning home,  I continue to be consumed with the beauty, scale, ruggedness and remoteness of the Highlands landscape, it's remarkable history and the simple and genuine nature of its residents.  Frankly, I miss it everyday, as does my wife. 

I ask that you indulge both the content and completion of this thread and hope that you find it interesting and helpful.  I'll get to the golf, having played a small but diverse selection of golf courses:  Durness, Brora, Royal Dornoch and Castle Stuart.  It is not, however the golf that haunts me, so I hope you don't find the travel aspect boring.

[Mike Hendren]

Arriving at one of the three gates at convenient Inverness airport we hop in the rental car - automatic transmission and GPS mandatory and head west to Applecross.  After a pedestrian drive the 6th green at Lochcarron Golf Club brightens the rainy day:



Just down the road a left turn yields this warning for the notorious Bealach Na Ba:


While the warning is daunting, this is a much needed tutorial in negotiating single track roads and will come in handy when we reach the Drumbeg Loop which makes the Bealach Na Ba looking like the Autobahn.

Highly recommended accomodations at the Applecross Inn and its quaint pub:
 www.applecross.uk.com/inn/  Langoustines chased down by Belhaven's Best with local artisan ice cream for desert brings day one to a close.

[Mike Leveille]

I am really looking forward to your tour Mike, especially at to Durness.  We plan to make it up that way for the first time when we are over in Dornoch in July. 


Mike

[Adam Lawrence]

I've never driven the Bealach na Ba. Done the English 'equivalent', the Hardknott-Wrynose Pass in the Lake District several times, that's a great road. But it doesn't reach 2000 feet!

[Niall C]

Michael


Thanks for the story so far. I look forward to hearing more of your travels.


Niall

[Phil McDade]

I was searching around my library for a good summer read; now I have it!

[Jon Wiggett]

I was searching around my library for a good summer read; now I have it!

Phil,


I had the pleasure of meeting Kevin last year. His book is a very good read and details a golfing adventure that most of us only dream about doing. I hope you enjoy it.


Jon

[Mike Hendren]

The next two days are a zig-zag north to Durness and a  late evening nine in a pouring rain.  More on that later. Frankly, each of these days is the equal of my upcoming visit to Royal Dornoch where I'll make new friends and meet an old one and finish the evening with an oustanding meal at 2Quail.  Two unbelievable, spectacular days on the road. The hip Westlea Guest House is highly recommended in Ullapool as is dinner at The Arch Inn.  My first bowl of Cullen Skink - the dish's name conjurs up images of a promiscuous lass from a coastal village to the east, but the smokey chowder is easily the trip gold medal winner.  Speaking of food, we happened upon the Lochinvar Larder with a full menu of excellent savory and sweet pies.  Highly recommended. 

It was suggested that the western swing be afforded three days and I agree, though we were not rushed over two.  I suggest budgeting 25 miles per hour with a pre-disposition to stop at a moment's notice.   One quickly masters use  of the abundant passing places on the one track road and I don't recall a single driver failing to acknowledge the courtesy.  The hand flip with the heel remaining on the wheel is the preferred gesture, not unlike that experienced in the remote Nebraska sand hills.  Only one driving mishap as I took out a roadside trash bin with my left mirror - no harm, no foul.  May traffic was light, and I wouldn't welcome any more during the high season.

A few photographs randomly selected:


Who knew that gorse and broom have similar flowers though the former is thorny and was planted primarily to control lifestock.

A Highlands billboard with the ubiquitous "Passing Place" signs in the background:


The boardwalk to Clachtoll Beach - note the tight knit turf on either side - true linksland.


Haunting beauty:


Ardvreck Castle Circa 1590


Yes, palm trees in the Highlands (Interewe Gardens)


Like any proud University of Tennessee graduate, my sweetie knocks down a Tennents with its power "T" logo - Go Vols.


Up next, golf and hot chocolate in Durness.

[Mike Hendren]

After arriving in Durness I head a mile out of town northwest to Balkaneil with great anticipationt to experience the homemade 9 at Durness Golf Club.  Will it be a novelty, or a true hidden gem?  Much is often made of the drive to a golf course, whether across heaving sand hills, through Southampton gates or down a lane of magnolia trees.  Durness holds its own in this regard as one heads down the lane with Faraid Head and its stunning beach dead ahead:



The lane swings west, squeezed between the sea and a walled church cemetery, dead ending into an empty parking lot.  Never fear, a homemade sign reads "Course Open."  As one steps through the metal sheep gate the clubhouse and putting green come into view.  Both rest comfortably on the landscape:



The steady rain yields a single thought:  "We are golfing today, my friend."

[Jon Wiggett]

Michael,


good tour so far and I regret not having the time to meet up with you at Dornoch but was just way too busy so hopefully next time.


I love the pic of the clubhouse at Durness and the simple honesty of the architecture the putting green presents. It is a shame that none of the present day GCAs have the courage to do something like that these days with putting greens as it is one of the most tradition styles that there is.


Jon

[Mike Hendren]

Jon, thanks for your guidance and kind offer to host.  Fortunately you were spared some atrocious golf and swing thoughts that might haunt you until your dying day.  I regret missing the opportunity to see your handiwork in Dingwall and wish you all the best.  You are blessed to call The Highlands home, but I bet you know that. 

Kindest regards,

Mike

[Thomas Dai]

I did this trip without clubs in the reverse direction a long, long time ago, so long ago that it was prior to the suspension bridge east of Inverness and the building of the causeways over the Cromerty Firth and north of Tain. It took forever but it was well worth while. The clarity of the water along the north coast was amazing. The drive around various Lochs and inlets like Loch Eriboll seemed to be neverending but there was so much bleak rural beauty to see it didn't really matter. I recall using a car ferry to cross a narrow sea Loch somewhere way, way north-west, I think there's a bridge there now. And then north of Kyle of Lochalsh it started to rain, and it rained and rained and rained and from then on visibility was practically nil. A great trip through a wonderful part of the world.
Atb

[David_Tepper]

Thomas D. -

If your drive around the Highlands was prior to 1984, my guess is the ferry crossing you made back then was at Kylesku. The bridge there opened in 1984.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kylesku_Bridge

More pics:

https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A86.Jyghm3JXYHIAExonnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTEyY2llNDkxBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjIwMDNfMQRzZWMDc2M-?p=Kylesku+Bridge+Scotland&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

DT

[Thomas Dai]

David,
Thank you. Very attractive bridge. It certainly seems to be the place as there are ferry landing points still visible when I satmap the area to the east of the bridge. I still recall the 'grinding' noise as some vehicles 'grounded' when going up/down the landing ramps.
Atb

[Mike Hendren]

Instructions and honesty box:


There are two sets of tees to yield 18 holes but as seen on the card, there's not much difference:


The first hole is somewhat clumsy, playing sharply uphill to a smallish green leveled by abruptly pushing up the front.  The second is straight-away with little interest.  At this point all I'm feeling is wet.  Perhaps something of interest awaits over the hill on the 3rd's tee shot. 

Indeed!

Not trying to be artsy but the quality of the photographs in the rain was poor.

From just short:


Looking back up the hill of the 3rd with the drive's aiming post at the crest:

 
The 4th is exceptional and could hold its own anywhere, especially when played at 323 yards:


Roomy from the tee but a miss right finds a deep depression.  Anything but left leaves a blind pitch but the fairway narrows on that side nearer the green:

The closely cropped turf left of the green repels the slightest tug down a sleep slope and the fronting mound protects front hole locations. 

[John Kavanaugh]

Honesty box. Do they take George W's or God forbid Alexander H's?

[Mike Hendren]

The 5th at Durness GC is a mock dogleg where the bigger hitter is free to go directly at the green from an elevated tee.  Others will need to fit their drive slightly right to catch a turbo boost to leave a short pitch to the canted green.  (Scroll right)



The reachable par five 6th is easily discredited by the presence of a small loch down the right and two additional water hazards that must be avoided by the shorter hitter.  The hole is featured on the scorecard and while I don't have a photo many are available on the internet or perhaps someone will post a few.  The green is set back some 20 yards from the loch, making the long second very tempting.  I'm reluctant to dismiss the hole as I find it to be a very good half-par hole that is quite strategic.

The one-shot 7th plays slightly uphill from high point to high point and for once the ground game is not an option.  The green is very well bunkered, a rarity for the course and the vastness of the background is stunning:


The day's pin was very well protected by this front left bunker, which displays some nice shaping by the locals:

[Mike Hendren]

The 8th is a blast, with a disconcerting perspective from the tee.  The line is down the left-hand path, ostensibly into either; a) oblivion; or b) the sea. 


The tendency is to play safely to the right, but a weak tee ball down that side leaves a blind second, again directly at the sea.  Regardless, the second from any where will be from a hanging lie with a small target where short and left must be avoided.  This photo is looking down from the 1st green.  The 8th is approached from the left.  Again, a stunning vista:


The one shot 9th plays across an inlet and has garnered some acclaim.  While scenic it takes a backseat to the 3rd, 4th, and 8th in my book.  A fun and beautiful finisher, with the tee at the lower left.  Only a bold and skillful short iron will negotiate the slight ridge protecting a back pin:

[Mike Hendren]

So, is Durness a novelty or hidden gem?  With five first rate holes, a sensible routing over a wide open site and simple shaping that defers to to the fabulous backdrop it's an absolute gem in my book.

Finally, the "experience" of visiting a new course is often enhanced by the introduction to a signature libation at round's end.  While not offered in the wonderfully austere clubhouse, just a mile back toward town delivers the chilled golfer to yet another gem of the Highlands - Cocoa Mountain and its legendary hot chocolate:


Cheers.

[Niall C]

Excellent stuff Mike. Durness is definitely golf in the raw. Looking forward to the rest of your trip.

Niall

[Terry Lavin]

Forget all the carping about rules violations and glossy photos of fake water hazards:  it's threads like this that best symbolize what this site has to offer.

[David_Tepper]

Look at that dunesland across the water behind the 9th green!

[Mike Hendren]

David, I assume that's the site Tom Doak indicated that Bill Coore had looked at.  Hopefully Tom will chime in. 

[Mike Hendren]

After checking out of Churchend Cottage (recommended) we head east with a quick stop at Smoo Cave:


More beauty out the left window:


and the right:


Time doesn't permit a round at Reay Golf Club as profiled on the site by Emil Weber http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,59531.msg1405538.html#msg1405538  and we round off the northeast corner by taking the A9 south out of Thurso.  Regrets include Dunnet Bay Distillery (enjoying the gin this summer, however) and the Duncansby Head stacks and a round at Wick Golf Club, just to reference highly recommended stops.

On to Brora for a late evening round with the course to myself.  Up next.

[David_Tepper]

Michael -

Speaking of Cocoa Mountain & Brora, they are in the process of opening a production facility there (if they have not done so already):

http://www.northern-times.co.uk/News/Cocoa-Mountain-to-open-factory-in-Brora-within-weeks-27052016.htm

Might as well plug their website in case anyone wants to indulge:

http://www.cocoamountain.co.uk/

DT`