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John Mayhugh

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 One of the things I’ve enjoyed most about golf course architecture and travel to see courses is the opportunity to experience new places while on a golf trip.  I’m not sure that golf would be the first priority when visiting Paris, but fortunately I had been to the area a number of times before (all sans golf), so this time I was free to focus just on noteworthy courses in Paris and the Pas-de-Calais region.  My traveling companions (David Kelly & Mark Arata) both wisely planned for more conventional tourism after our golf was completed.  So those worried about our missing out on the glories of Paris to play this ridiculous game, no need for you to point that out.
 
I’ll hopefully be posting a course every few days, but it takes more time than I like to organize thoughts and post photos.  My goal is to have a bit of discussion on the features and merits of each course that we saw, not a comprehensive tour.  Courses are listed in the order that we saw them, not any sort of ranking. 
 
Ours was a pretty aggressive schedule, with my greatest regret not having an additional round at the first course,(played on our day of arrival) – Golf de Saint Germain.
 
 
GOLF DE SAINT-GERMAIN
Since I could only play one round at Saint Germain, having Ran’s profile of the course was invaluable. 
http://golfclubatlas.com/courses-by-country/france/saintgermain1/
 
Like several of the other notable Paris-area courses, Saint Germain is tucked away in a huge forest.  The site devoted to the golf course, though, is not very large and it seems like Colt was called upon to very creative on this small, relatively flat site.
 
The charming clubhouse wouldn’t be out of place in Surrey.

 
 
One thing Colt took advantage of was the dirt removed for construction of a rail line.  Though the line is out of use now, the crossing points from one part of the course to another remain.

 
 
The dogleg left fourth hole shows some of Colt’s creativity in creating interest on the relatively flat site.  There are fairway bunkers on the inside (left) of the dogleg.  If you don’t play close to the bunkers, you have to approach over or near the deep bunker on the right protecting the green.

 
 

 
 
From the side, you can see the economy used to incorporate this hazard into an elevated tee that he constructed.

 
 
 
Like any Colt course I’ve seen, the par 3s impress.  Here’s the attractive 5th.

 
 
The approach on the 10th must have been really intimidating in the hickory days.

 
 
 
The bunkerless 13th was no pushover thanks to the hollow on the right of the green, with the green on an angle to the likely line of approach.

 
 
The par 3 17th plays across an old quarry area.

 
 
Not hard to clear the quarry, but being short is a real problem.

 
 
I would say that the locker room was perfect, but for a hot humid July day, the lack of air conditioning didn’t encourage lingering.  (A reminder, too, what a great American Willis Carrier was!)



Saint-Germain was everything I expected, and more.  From Ran’s profile and comments of knowledgeable friends, I knew the course would be good.  But I was still surprised at how good.  Even though there is clay sub-soil (according to my reading on this site), conditions were firm. I never felt like the course was cramped, though it’s only on 110 acres.  Additional tree removal would improve the course, but it’s a candidate for best in France as-is.
 
« Last Edit: September 23, 2015, 06:42:39 AM by John Mayhugh »

Mark_Rowlinson

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John, Thank you for this admirably succinct account. I look forward to the rest.

Paul Gray

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Trees.
 
That aside, those par 3's immediate caught my eye as being of real interest. As you say, Colt rarely, if ever, disappoints in that department.
In the places where golf cuts through pretension and elitism, it thrives and will continue to thrive because the simple virtues of the game and its attendant culture are allowed to be most apparent. - Tim Gavrich

Bill_McBride

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The 10th green is reminiscent of the 17th at Huntercombe.  Was it as out of character as Huntercombe's 17th?




John Mayhugh

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Mark,
Thanks.  If I can do half as good as you, I'll be happy.

Paul,
Obviously the course could be improved with some tree removal, but I think the photos are a bit unkind in that regard.  On most holes, width and angles were still pretty good. 

Bill,
I wouldn't consider the 10th as out of character at all.  It's a pretty flat site, and Colt used fill to build up a number of green sites.  The 10th might be the tallest and have the most fearsome bunkering, but it still fit the course.  I get what you mean about the 17th at Huntercombe - it does stand out more - but when playing the course I didn't notice it as particularly out of place.

Garland Bayley

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Thanks for the Mayhugh insight on Saint-Germain.



"I enjoy a course where the challenges are contained WITHIN it, and recovery is part of the game  not a course where the challenge is to stay ON it." Jeff Warne

Adam_Messix

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John--

Very nice write up about an outstanding golf course.  St. Germain is the a testament to the genius of Colt building a great course on dull property.  Gca's own Stuart Hallet was involved with the maintenance at St. Germain when I visited.  I don't know if it's changed or not, but we really liked how the course was presented. 

John Mayhugh

  • Karma: +0/-0
Very nice write up about an outstanding golf course.  St. Germain is the a testament to the genius of Colt building a great course on dull property.  Gca's own Stuart Hallet was involved with the maintenance at St. Germain when I visited.  I don't know if it's changed or not, but we really liked how the course was presented.

I think it's fair to say that Colt got about as much as possible out of the property.  Very creative.  Conditions at St. Germain were quite good for us as well. 

Adam_Messix

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John

The one thing that I wish we would celebrate is architects who can do more with less.  St. Germain illustrates Colt's talent as much as anything he designed.  The property is nowhere near as good as say Swinley Forest, but the course is outstanding nonetheless.

John Mayhugh

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 GOLF D’HARDELOT LES PINS
After Saint-Germain, we headed up to the Pas-de Calais, about a two hour drive.  First on the agenda was Golf d’Hardelot Les Pins.  Fellow GCA posters Frank Pont and Patrice Boissonnas have been busy restoring this Simpson gem, so I was eager to see it.  When someone wrote “it is only the mad masterpieces that remain in the memory,” it’s worth seeking out as many of his courses as you can.
 
Frank posted a good photo thread from Hardelot, and I won’t try to compete with that.  Additionally, Scott Warren started a good discussion of it (though his pics are gone), and Frank posted some fascinating historical photos.  Both Frank & Patrice discuss there work there, and it’s worth a review.  Some of Frank & Patrice’s work was finished after my visiting in summer 2014 (yes, it took me a while to get around to posting), so I have a good reason to get back there.
http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,58548.0.html
http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php?topic=46034.25
 
On Frank’s website, he describes the work they did.  Frank & Patrice were primarily focused on green extensions, where possible the widening of the fairways, rebuilding tees and restoring the original sand faces, rough edges and scale of the bunkers. 
http://www.infinitevarietygolf.com/projects-hardelot-1.html
 
 
Even though the course is set in a pine forest, it does not feel constrained.  The expansion of playing corridors brings out the flair of the design, and you feel free to play away from the center of the fairway, just as Simpson would have wanted!  Hardelot feels like it should play linksy, and being only a mile from sea, that’s what we want.  The turf is unfortunately dominated by poa, and was a bit soft when we visited.
 
As you might expect, Hardelot has great green sites, and our appreciation of those starts early with the 1st.  This medium length par 5 has three interesting shots thanks to use of the terrain and well-placed bunkers.  I think it’s also easy to see here how much the Simpson style bunkering enhances the look of the hole.

 
Looking at the 4th from behind, note how avoiding the bunker front right can bring the small green “tongue” into play.  The runoff there may be a worse result than hitting in the bunker, especially given the tilt of the green.  Green expansion like this doesn’t seem like a major change, but has a significant impact on the playing of the hole.

 
The 5th (shown from behind) is a gorgeous par 3.  Note how much different this hole looked before Frank and Patrice took over (near the end of page 1 of this thread).
http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,46034.0.html

 
At the 8th, Simpson shows that restraint also works rather nicely.  This is one of the smallest greens, and short grass combined with the slopes makes the hole rather more difficult than it looks.  A good example of Simpson wanting to make a hole look easier than it plays.

 
 
You can just make out the flag in the middle left of this photo from the 9th.  The green is mostly in a straight line from the tee, but the hole plays almost as a double dogleg par 4!  About 450 yards, it’s one tough par 4 that can be made easier by taking on more of the bunkering.  This one takes a few plays to feel even slightly comfortable from the tee.

 
From behind the 9th.  The forest effectively guards this green from approaches made from the wrong part of the fairway.

 
 
The short par 4 11th might temp longer hitters to have a go at the green, but results could be frustrating.

 
The par 3 12th is, like its siblings, gorgeous.  The homeowner on the left had large lights in their yard to illuminate the green.  Who could blame them?  Art on a very large canvas.

 
 
The 14th green was completely rebuilt as it was not a Simpson original.  I think this could pass nicely for one.

 
 
The wild green on the par 3 15th benefitted greatly from expansion.  The runoff areas front and back don’t necessarily make the hole play easier, but do make it a lot more interesting. 

 
Some exposed dune on the par 3 17th.  My eye was more drawn to the drop off on the left.  The safe play is not appealing.

 
 
Frank and Patrice have done wonderful work at Hardelot les Pins, and I think firmer conditions also make it a candidate for best on the Continent.  The bunkers become even more relevant hazards, and the player gets many more options.  This course, too, would feel right at home in the UK.  I am already looking forward to a return visit, and hope the leadership at Royal Spa in Belgium can accomplish the same type of turnaround.
 

Adam Lawrence

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Les Pins is a fine, fine course, and the restoration work is super, but I'm not quite as high on it as some others. I don't, for example, see it as a candidate for best in Europe, and in my eyes La Mer at Le Touquet has considerably better bones and more potential. Partly it's the agronomy; Les Pins has been managed for poa for a long time, but there's just something about the place that says to me it's achieving now about as much as it can.


John, I will be interested to read your thoughts on La Mer.
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

C. Sturges

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John,


Thank you for a great tour and I am looking forward to the other courses you played on this trip.  From the photos the course is making the right moves to make it better!  I am not sure I agree with it being a contender for the best course in Europe, it just made my top 10 and I missed playing a number of courses that would probably make the top five-ten.  I also thought La Dunes played more firm and fast than Les Pins, which I was surprised with.  I preferred the lay out at Les Pins. 
Did you play Royal Spa on this trip?  I was really surprised there with the course conditions being the closest to an over watered American course of the courses I played.  I really like the lay out and hope they do more tree trimming, but I also hope they turn down the amount of water.


Keep the tours coming!
chris

Adam Lawrence

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Spa is magnificent, I think its bones are as good as anything in Europe, but the soil is poor and they've been tied to a water it and feed it model of Greenkeeping for a long time
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

C. Sturges

  • Karma: +0/-0
Adam,


That is interesting to hear.  Before my trip, many people told me to expect poor or lack luster maintenance on European golf courses.  Spa was the only course that looked like an American course, but with what you say it makes sense.  All the other courses were in great playing conditions.  I easily felt the conditions were as good as anywhere I have played in the UK and this put a very big smile on my face! 


I was able to play in the Netherlands, Belgium, and France, and would compare the courses favorably to any I have played.  I am very surprised that more courses in Europe are not talked about here more often.  It is not any more difficult to planning a trip to the UK from the US.  You can also  experience many different cultures.
chris


 

ward peyronnin

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Hardelot is a magical place

evocative of the Shire with one ready for hobbits, elves and other fey creatures to appear
"Golf is happiness. It's intoxication w/o the hangover; stimulation w/o the pills. It's price is high yet its rewards are richer. Some say its a boys pastime but it builds men. It cleanses the mind/rejuvenates the body. It is these things and many more for those of us who truly love it." M.Norman

John Mayhugh

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Adam,
I agree that conditions put a ceiling on Hardelot.  I wouldn't argue that it's the best on the Continent.  But if conditions were firmer and someone else did, I wouldn't call them crazy.  More a matter of tastes at that point.  Will share thoughts on Touquet in a few days (hopefully).

Chris,
I played Spa a couple of years ago. 

Patrice Boissonnas

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Thanks John, Adam and all contributors for your nice words about Hardelot.

Chris Bertram just published a 6 page article about it in the latest edition of Golf World UK.
(so did Adam in a previous edition of Golf Course Architecture).







Next week, Golf Word will reveal their new Top 100 ranking for european continent. Let's see where Hardelot stand (it was ranked 98th 2 years ago) !


John Mayhugh

  • Karma: +0/-0
Thanks for the article, Patrice. 

David Kelly

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I was able to play in the Netherlands, Belgium, and France, and would compare the courses favorably to any I have played.  I am very surprised that more courses in Europe are not talked about here more often.  It is not any more difficult to planning a trip to the UK from the US.  You can also  experience many different cultures.


I agree, there are many great courses in France, Belgium and The Netherlands to see by the likes of Colt and Simpson, the food is great, there are a myriad of non-golf things to do and see and you get to drive on the right side of the road.


Saint-Germain is one of the more impressive golf architectural jobs I have seen. Considering the land he started with, Colt did a wonderful job of moving dirt while still making the course look natural.  And as John said, all this on a relatively small parcel of land with another 9-hole course, the Genets course, which we didn't get to play, thrown in.  I have Saint-Germain as my favorite course in France.


"Whatever in creation exists without my knowledge exists without my consent." - Judge Holden, Blood Meridian.

John Mayhugh

  • Karma: +0/-0
 GOLF DE BELLE DUNE
Mixed in with the classics, we also visited a modern course in the area – Golf de Belle Dune.  The course is a little more than 20 years old, and designed by Jean-Manuel Rossi.  It alternates between awesome and amateurish, but is completely original.  There are some really clever features and great land, but overall I think these get marred by less appealing ones such as trees in odd places.
 
It’s a charming place, with a simple starter’s hut.

 
The 1st green works quite nicely with only short grass to help defend it.

 
But then you have trees like these on the 2nd and 3rd holes.

 

 
 
The tiny 4th green, protected by trees on the right and a mound on the left.

 
The 7th green, also bunkerless.  Beautiful lay of the land green.

 
A WWII bunker on the left side of the 8th.  This hole is on a pretty wild bit of dunesland.

 
Approach to the 8th.  A shame more of the course wasn’t built on this.

 
Tee shot on the par 4 9th.  Not as difficult as it appears.

 
Then things go downhill a bit on the 11th.  With houses to the left, why pinch things in on the right?

 

 
Followed by an interesting approach, with trees pinching in the strip of crater bunkers.

 
How many people would guess this greensite is in France?

 
The clubhouse and adjacent buildings at this resort accentuate the course.

 
I’m not sure what to make of Belle Dune.  The course is too narrow in places, has weird trees, & bland bunkering.  It also has a number of clever holes and, for the most part, was fun to play.  It’s unfortunate that the architect had to build so many holes within the trees rather than out in the dunes, because he did much better work in the dunes.  It would be interesting to see what other architects might have done with the opportunity, but you’re also not likely to get anything like Belle Dune from someone else.  Worth seeing if you’re in the area.
 

Ed Tilley

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Re: A look at some Paris and Pas-de-Calais courses - now up Golf de Belle Dune
« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2015, 07:19:32 AM »
Thanks for the pictures. Nice memories of Belle Dune which I've only played once and enjoyed. A bit of a mish-mash in styles from memory but a handful of excellent holes in with some strange ones. From the South East of England, a 3 day trip involving Hardelot, Le Touquet, and Belle Dune is surprisingly easy as each are within easy reach of the tunnel. It's certainly easier than getting to Scotland.

Paul Gray

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Re: A look at some Paris and Pas-de-Calais courses - now up Golf de Belle Dune
« Reply #21 on: September 24, 2015, 06:34:24 PM »
John,


Thanks for this.


Belle Dune does indeed look like a strange one, quickly flipping from the sublime to the ridiculous.


I notice in your last picture some duneland beyond the existing course. Do you know if the club owns that land?
In the places where golf cuts through pretension and elitism, it thrives and will continue to thrive because the simple virtues of the game and its attendant culture are allowed to be most apparent. - Tim Gavrich

Ulrich Mayring

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Re: A look at some Paris and Pas-de-Calais courses - now up Golf de Belle Dune
« Reply #22 on: September 27, 2015, 06:20:06 PM »
I think Belle Dunes is a tremendous course, as it manages to provide a number of new problems. Some of those are fantastic, some bizarre, some even border on unplayable, but there are a lot of original ideas. How to further the art of golf course architecture, if not by trying something new and occasionally failing at it?

In my mind the firm and fast playing conditions alone make it worth seeing. Unless you're playing for score - the course is going to spoof you sooner or later.

Ulrich
Golf Course Exposé (300+ courses reviewed), Golf CV (how I keep track of 'em)

John Mayhugh

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Re: A look at some Paris and Pas-de-Calais courses - now up Golf de Belle Dune
« Reply #23 on: September 27, 2015, 09:06:23 PM »
Paul,
I don't have any idea about the ownership of the adjacent land.  Hard to imagine them owning it and not using it for the course, unless there are restrictions on the usage.

Ulrich,
I think as a whole, the course is rather original.  But I cannot think of any hole concepts that seemed especially unique.  What stood out to you?

Ulrich Mayring

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Re: A look at some Paris and Pas-de-Calais courses - now up Golf de Belle Dune
« Reply #24 on: September 28, 2015, 05:23:55 PM »
The 3rd with two trees right in front of a bunker in front of the green. The angles on the 8th: drive to the right and there is a small dune in the landing zone. Drive to the left and there is ample room, but a large dune blocking your approach. The 13th with the tree in the abyss to keep longhitters honest.

Ulrich
Golf Course Exposé (300+ courses reviewed), Golf CV (how I keep track of 'em)