Final Scotlamd Prep

[Garrett McKnight]

I am just under two weeks until I depart for an 17 night adventure around Scotland. I appreciate any last minute tips on where we should grab a pint or a meal. My intrepid wife is allowing my buddy and I to play as much as we want. Our golf schedule is as follows:

6/5-12 - St. Andrews - going to ballot TOC. We are planning on buying the 3-Day Links Pass as well. We have only one time set - Carnoustie. Planning on playing Crail and Elie as well.

6/12-14 - Staying in Tain - PM time on 13th at Royal Dornoch. AM time the following day at Nairn. May play Brora before Dornoch.

6/14-17 - Staying in Pennan. Times booked on Cruden, Royal Aberdeen and Murcar. Possibly Fraserburgh. We may take a day to sample the Speyside distilleries.

6/17-21 - Staying in Aberlady/Gullane - tee times at N. Berwick and Luffness New booked. Would love to get a miracle time for us on Muirfield. However that's a long-shot. Possibly will play Dunbar or Gullane. May take a day to explore Edinburgh.

Will collapse on the flight home.

Any tips on anythings we need to see along the way or places to grab a meal or pint?

Thanks in advance.

[C. Sturges]

Garrett,

Have a great time!  Make sure to take comfy shoes for golf and after.  I would make sure to play Brora, it is a short drive and one of my favorite courses from last year.
We played Gullane and really enjoyed it, but it is not Muirfield, good luck on playing there!  I would also recommend playing Old Musselbourgh, the second home of the HCEG! 

last year my group found some good food and drink, but will leave those recommendations to the locals.  I had some amazing ox tails at Royal Dornoch and Muirfield's lunch was a true game changer.  Just amazing!

Have Fun,
chris

[Phil McDade]

Garrett:

Grab a pint or two at the Dunvegan in St. Andrews; caddies for the Old Course are known to hang out there. You can also take a meal in the pub if the dining room is busy. First time there, I waited at the pub counter for a pint, and turned around to greet Nick Price.

http://www.dunvegan-hotel.com/

I'd encourage a round at Fraserburgh, a terrific links often bypassed by those taking in Scotland's golfing highlights; Ran's tour appropriately highlights the reasons for a round: http://golfclubatlas.com/courses-by-country/scotland/fraserburgh-golf-club/

The Speyside distilleries are worth a visit; I really enjoyed the Glenfiddich tour, but there are several worth a stop:

http://www.spiritofspeyside.com/planning_your_visit/speyside_distilleries

Pennan is a neat little town, and if you are adventurous, you might wander over to nearby Gardenstown and even take  a stroll from there to the cliff-hanging community of Crovie, which is somewhat other-worldly:

http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/aberdeenshire/gardenstown-crovie.shtml

Enjoy your trip!

[Andy Shulman]

Sounds like a great trip and one very accommodating wife.  Don't forget to pack plenty of moleskin and ibuprofen!  Here's my advice:

1. Try to play some of the courses - especially North Berwick, TOC and Dornoch - more than once.
2. Skip Gullane - but not Crail or Elie, both of which are a blast - if necessary to do so.
3. Other courses to consider - if time permits - are Golspie in the Highlands and the Eden Course in St. Andrews.  Unless you're a single-digit handicapper, the Eden is way more fun than the New or Jubilee, although you should certainly give those a try.
4. I agree wholeheartedly on the Dunvegan recommendation, as it's a very social place.
5. Up north, check out Dunrobin Castle for garden porn and a really cool falconry exhibition.  Those birds are impressive...and scary!

Oh, and have a great time!

[Keith Phillips]

Great trip - while this is a golf site, on a 17-day trip Edinburgh is definitely worth at least a day - perhaps the most beautiful city in Europe.

[mike_beene]

7th tee at Gulane is the best view in golf with Muirfield behind you and the castle and the firth bridge in front.After Muirfield and North Berwick, Gulane number 1 is next in line and almost as good.

[Mark Chaplin]

Gullane 1 just isn't good value, it's very overpriced for a good view. Skip it spend the day in Edinburgh and dine at a very good restaurant for the price of a round. Castle Terrace, Martin Wishart are two that spring to mind.

[Mark Pearce]

I'd play Dunbar or Kilspindie over Gullane 1.  In fact, I'd play Gullane 2 over Gullane 1.

[David_Tepper]

Garrett -

Greetings from Dornoch! I am here till June 5. Sorry I will miss you.

I don't know how large a group you are traveling with. I would certainly try to play one of the courses (Brora, Golspie or Tain) near Dornoch. You can't go wrong with any one of them.

The Glenmorangie Distillery, just off the A9 north of Tain, gives a very nice tour (took it yesterday!), with a dram to taste at the end.

For dinner in Dornoch, my two favorites are Luigi on Castle Street (contemporary and not Italian, despite the name) and the Sutherland House just off the square (with a more traditional menu).

Feel free to message me if you have any more questions.

DT     

[Martin Lehmann]

I envy you, that's going to be a wonderful trip! For me, golf in Scotland is, and will ever be, the real thing.

If possible, I would add Trump Links to the Cruden Bay, Murcar, Royal Aberdeen trio. I know Trump bashing belongs to the favorite activities of many, but that doesn't make his course less fantastic.

If the weather is bad and if you're getting tired of playing links golf in stormy conditions, you could consider some inland courses as well. For instance Ladybank and/or The Duke's. Last course seems to be underestimated and neglected by some, maybe because it's part of The Old Course Hotel, but I played it last September and really liked it.

 

[Rich Goodale]

Garrett

Good, doable journey.  Enjoy!

In St. Andrews you MUST either eat or drink (ideally both) at least once on the top floor of the Old Course Hotel.  As I have said many times, it is the best view in the town, not only because it is the only view in town that does not include the architectural abomination that is the Old Course Hotel.  The restaurant is expensive, but worth if, if you have the dosh. Otherwise, avoid the Dunvegan unless you want to experience an average College Station, TX road house in Scotland.  There are a lot of much better pubs and restaurants in town--just ask around, you'll be there long enough.

In Tain, the Carnegie Lodge (South of the A9 in the middle of a housing development) is your best bet.  The golf club food at Dornoch (and in Tain, I am told) is very good (if not Chez Panisse...), as is Luigi in Dorncoh.  If you can sacrifice a morning round there, get up early, take the spectacular drive to the Klyesku Inn (1.5m hours each way) for a great lunch and play a magical evening round in Sutherland on your return (sun sets at 11pm or so in mid-June)

In Pennan, stay at the Inn, eat the Roadkill Rabbit Stew (if on the menu), fall in love with the barmaid, dance to the local celidh band with the Russian fisherman, and make sure you avoid the teenage vespa driver on the narrow roads.

In East Lothain, sttay, drink and eat at Duck's in Aberlady, and change Gullane #1 for Kilspindie or Luffness.  Pray for Muirfield, and if you whine remorsefully and poshly enough in the bar ay Duck's (or at the Old Cl9ubhosue in Gullane), you might be able to get a game.....

Good Luck!

[Carson Pilcher]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned The Jigger Inn for a pint or dram after your round at TOC.  Finish up and walk back down the "road" by #17, and it is right there.

I believe you can also arrange guest access into The St. Andrews Golf Club for the week.  It is right next to the 18th green of TOC and would give you a place to store your clubs, change your shoes and grab a pint after a round.

[Niall C]

Garrett,

Your itinerary is all very nice, but sacrifice any of the rounds/days mentioned to play Forfar. You won't be disappointed.

Niall

[Malcolm Mckinnon]

In Edinburgh for a pint or a cocktail or food even try The Devil's Advocate. Its situated halfway down the Advocate's Close off of High Street in Old Town.

The Outsider Restaurant on George IV Bridge in Old Town has great food and also a huge window in the back with spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle. A few doors down is the Elephant House Coffee shop where JK Rowling sat in the back writing "Harry Potter" while taking in the same view. Just behind is Greyfriars Kirkyard which is considered one of the most haunted places in the world. A Poltergeist resides in the tomb of Mackenzie which strikes out at intruders occasionally.

Don't bother with Edinburgh Castle. If you are inclined to do something touristy see Holyrood Palace and the ruins of the old Holyrood Abbey instead with views up to the Salisbury Crag. The National Gallery off of Princes Street Gardens is also worth a visit, and free!

If you want a great view climb up Arthurs seat and you can see the entire city spread out around you, the Forth river and on a good day the Lothians to Gullane Hill and the North Berwick Law and Bass Rock as well as the Fife coast to the Largo Law. Calton Hill off of Princes Street also provides a spectacular (and often photographed) vista of the city.

[Adam Lawrence]

I understand why people like the Dunvegan, but I'm with Rich. The vibe can be cool, but the beer is terrible (even in Scotland it's shocking not to offer real ale nowadays) and the food isn't anything much. I think Americans like it because it's a reminder of home but as a British pub it fails on most counts. Best I've found is the Criterion on South Street.

[Niall C]

Adam

I think you've found the answer, go looking for a good pub. Much better to discover something rather than merely going on recommendations. That said the Central Bar and especially the Whey Pat Inn are a better bet than the Dunvegan. Also is the Jigger not some sort of fancy Bistro these days ?

Niall

[Malcolm Mckinnon]

Also, check out http://www.teeofftimes.co.uk  for discounted greens fees.

Last Summer I played Dunbar,  Craigilaw and Leven with discounted offers.

[James Brown]

I'm a big fan of the Royal Golf Hotel in Dornoch.  Dinner in the window-lined dining room there is surreal after a late afternoon round.  Awesome views of the course and the firth and the food is amazing.  Make a reservation. 

[James Boon]

Garrett,

Despite visiting the Dornoch area at least twice a year for some time now, I'm afraid I can't make too many suggestions for places to eat. Unfortunately my wife likes my cooking too much  

However, 2 things. Firstly as already recommended don't miss Brora. Secondly not to disagree with my friend David T, but if you want a distillery tour visit Balblair not far from Tain. Despite liking Glenmorangie, I haven't been on the tour, as when I visited it was full of, well tourists. However, my wife and I essentially received our own personal tour of the Balblair distillery from excellent friendly staff and to be honest the whisky there is better!  

Cheers,

James

[Ken Moum]

I'd play Dunbar or Kilspindie over Gullane 1.  In fact, I'd play Gullane 2 over Gullane 1.

I'd probably play Gullane 3... wait a minute, that's what I did Monday. Too many folks look down on #3 because of it's short yardage, but it was plenty for me. Of course it sleeting sideways about 5 minutes before we teed off and didn't stop raining until the seventh hole.

BTW, the people at Elie seem to know who you are, but having your tutelage didn't help me today.  I only made 5 stableford points in the first 12 holes, but managed 7 in the last six.  Got killed in the weekly competition for dinner, however.

Speaking of the 7th tee on Gullane 1



As I told my wife, it might be the only time we get to look down on the HCEG.

Ken

PS.  Woo Hoo!!! We got drawn in the ballot for TOC at 12:30 Monday.

[Ally Mcintosh]

In Pennan, stay at the Inn, eat the Roadkill Rabbit Stew (if on the menu), fall in love with the barmaid, dance to the local celidh band with the Russian fisherman, and make sure you avoid the teenage vespa driver on the narrow roads.

Very good.

[Chris DeNigris]

You've got the golf well in hand- so I'll chime in on a foodie suggestion.  While in St Andrews, one evening head a couple towns over to Cupar for dinner at Ostlers Close. It's as good as the golf  

Also- easily the neatest distillery we visited was Edradour- "Scotland's Smallest Distillery"- just outside of Pitlochry. Very quirky- Definitely the Prestwick of distilleries.  You'd pass right by it if you're taking the A9 to Inverness from Fife.

[Mark Pearce]

Ken,

Great news, enjoy The Old Course.

[Dub_ONeill]

Eat at least one dinner at the Osteria in North Berwick.  It is small, modern Italian, and excellent.

[Adam Lawrence]

Eat at least one dinner at the Osteria in North Berwick.  It is small, modern Italian, and excellent.

Yes, agreed. I ate there last month - was very good. NB has not always been an easy place to get a good meal - thus was a find.