In praise of the wee nine hole course: Helmsdale now added...

[James Boon]

On my recent trip to the Highlands of Scotland, I decided to give the big names a miss and head back to the sort of courses I used to play on childhood holidays to Scotland, the wee nine hole course that most of the villages seem to have.

My first round was at Durness on the far north west tip of Scotland. I wasn't originally planning on playing golf, but on getting to Durness and coming across the course it seemed such a fine day and a great setting that this was an opportunity not to be missed. After all the driving, my wife was happy for a walk and the fact that I was in jeans and a t-shirt didn’t matter to the very welcoming lady in the small but ideal clubhouse. Even better, it was still winter season apparently, so only £10 for the round.

Hole 1, 296 yards, par 4
(Hole 10 282 yards)
This is the view from the first tee, the first fairway is up the hill to the left, the spectacular 9th is in the middle and the stunning beech is off to the right. Oh, and thats the North Atlantic you see looking as beautiful as it is benign. The first is a short uphill par 4 doglegging uphill to the left.


Looking back from the fairway towards the clubhouse


The approach to the first is steeply uphill, seen here from the next tee which is to the left of the green. The back flag was blind from the fairway


Hole 2, 321 yards, par 4
(Hole 11, 311 yards)
The second is another short par 4, doglegging again to the left.  A first real view of the stunning hills in the distance which will be the back drop for much of the middle of the round.


Hole 3, 408 yards, par 4
(Hole 12, 391 yards)
The drive is along a plateau before dropping down steeply at around 200 yards to a cool green below.


Hole 4, 287 yards, par 4
(Hole 13, 323 yards)
Another short par 4, perhaps driveable in the right conditions on the front nine? But a long hollow to the left and a mound to the right make for a tricky green to approach, seen here from behind.


Hole 5, 344 yards, par 4
(Hole 14, 312 yards)
The two sets of tees on this hole are in quite different locations, allowing for a large mound in the middle of the fairway to create the feel of two very different drives. This is the view from the left tee, which if I recall correctly was the 5th? The mound is just right of centre with the other fairway visible to the right.


Hole 6, 434 yards, par 5
(Hole 15, 454 yards)
Though not the longest, this hole is played as a par 5, probably because of how it bends around a small loch? The simple tee marker with so e resident sheep in the background.


Here is the drive, thats the green on the far side of the lock to the right.


When you manage to get closer to the green you will see there is quite a bit of ground short of the putting green.


Looking back from behind the green


Hole 7, 178 yards, par 3
(Hole 16, 154 yards)
A par 3 played across a shallow valley. Here is the view back towards the previous hole by the loch.


Hole 8, 377 yards, par 4
(Hole 17, 360 yards)
After driving over a hill, you are back to the coastal views for this downhill approach shot.


Hole 9, 108 yards, par 3
(Hole 18, 155 yards)
A little stunner to finish!


Relaxed dress code and a stunning setting


The view of the green from over to the right side up near the first tee


Looking back from the green with the tees in the distance on the far side of the rocky inlet


The course measures just under 5,500yards to a par of 70, but there is so much more to the experience of a course like this than the pure numbers. The course was an interesting challenge, the conditioning excellent considering the early season nature, exposed location and cost of the green fee, the welcome was warm and open and the setting stunning. It might be around a 2 and a half hour drive from Dornoch along quite a few single track roads, but as at times it seems most golfing tourists seem happy to drive huge distances why wouldnt you?

Still to come, Bonar Bridge, Brahan and Helmsdale (and I couldn't resist a round at Brora!)

Cheers,

James

[Clyde Johnson]

Thanks for the pics James. How about those dunes across the bay?

The combination of, in places, quite dramatic elevation change with the expansive vistas (with little other visual clutter) makes distance judgement particularly difficult at Durness - the carry off five tee, and approach to eight are especially tricky and fun!

Reay's not a bad little links along that top coast either, although the sight of the beach being 'cleaned' of potential radioactive particles from the nearby power station can be rather disconcerting.   

[Thomas Dai]

Wonderful!

Yee olde style GB&I golf but still with tremendous merit and very importantly, fun. You're spot on that so many places, not just in Scotland but all over rural GB, used to have little 9-holers with tiny Clubhouses (and honesty boxes), not so many these days unfortunately. A great shame.

I think you'd like Cruit, St David's City and Otway, all rural 9-holers that I've just threaded about.

See -

Cruit Island - http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,58468.0.html
St David's City - http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,58473.0.html
Otway - http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,58477.0.html

Would I be correct in assuming from the photo of the 4th hole that you only carried a tiny bag and a few clubs?

Those dunes further to the east do look interesting.

Were there any jets bombing at the Cape Wrath range or was it nice and quiet during your visit?

Looking forward to seeing your tours of Bonar Bridge, Brahan and Helmsdale.

Top thread. Well done for posting and many thanks for sharing.

tba

[Ulrich Mayring]

Durness has far from a perfect playing surface, in fact the soil is loamy. The routing didn't make much sense to me either, there's a lot more walking than should be on such a wee site. Some places are tough to negotiate with a trolley, so make sure you bring your carry bag.

The setting is exhilarating, no doubt - but the golf is very basic.

Ulrich

[Colin Macqueen]

My goodness James!

What a gorgeous little course and by the looks of things you played it on a day made in heaven! It just goes to show that golf, dare I say real golf, can still be played for the equivalent of a halfpenny if you are bothered to put in the miles! The scenery in getting to that neck of the woods would be pretty barren I guess but majestic just the same.  Great little  course profile ...thanks a lot.

Made me a wee bit homesick.

Cheers Colin

Edit:
Ach Ulrich …. conditions may not be anywhere near "perfect" but that is the way it was in the beginning ….."The Game was invented a billion years ago……don't you remember"! 

I would happily forgo standard golf course preparation to play regularly on a course such as this wee pearl. The routing may leave something to be desired viz a viz ideal routing (I don't know never having played this course!) but I tell you I wouldn't be too bothered with having to dawdle a wee bit longer between holes if I was in this particular piece of paradise.  The weather would be the killer I suspect and James got a bonnie day indeed.

Cheers Colin

[jeffwarne]

Thanks James,
Long been on my bucket list.

Clyde,
you cracked me up with your comments in the first sentence.
We're looking at the SPECTACULAR scenery of the course and you're fantasizing on the potential of the site in the background.

I'm guessing your wife has punched you more than once

[Ulrich Mayring]

Colin,

I'm all for old-style courses with old style conditioning and have promoted many a controversial gem. But not all of those "throwback" courses are created equal

The scenery is great and I can assure you it looks even better in the summer. I found the golf to be just ok.

Ulrich

[Niall C]

James

Excellent. Further proof if ever it was needed that it never rains in Scotland.

Couldn't help thinking as I looked at those stunning photos couldn't help thinking of Sean Arbles usual refrain of too many bunkers. It looks to my eye that there is plenty interest there without any sand being added.

Looking forward to the other courses.

Niall

[Rich Goodale]

Great stuff, James.  My 1st and only time at Durness there was a 50mph wind coming over the 1st hole toward the tee.  I hit Driver, 3-wood, 6-iron to the back of the green.  296 yards.....

Can't wait to hear about Helmsdale and Brahan.

Rich

[Jason Topp]

Is this a downland type course or more of Links?

[James Boon]

Thanks everyone,

A further point I forgot to mention is that the course was only built in the late 1980s so is still relatively modern despite its "throwback" appearance.

Clyde,

I drove past Wick and Reay when I was in the area last year. Both look worth a visit. I'm not advocating nuclear power, but proximity to a nuclear plant hasn't caused Aldeburgh, Burnham & Berrow or Seascale any problems as far as I'm aware?

Thomas,

Yes I spotted your threads before posting this one this morning. All excellent stuff! Honesty boxes are on their way... A lightweight bag and about 7 or 8 clubs are ideal for a holiday and dont take up too much room in the boot. I'm sure much of my recent holiday golf even at the likes of Carnoustie, Turnberry and Dornoch have been with such a set. And Cape Wrath was quiet.

Brian,

Yes, especially out at the 4th and 5th, you really do feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. Just stunning.

Ulrich,

The site isnt actually that wee, but there were a couple of occasions were the walks to the next hole were a bit long. However, I have no problem with a long walk between holes when the setting is as beautiful as this. However, I felt there was a lot more interest from an architectural perspective than you are giving it?

Also, the playing surface seemed just fine to me. The sheep that are on the course at certain times of the year kept the grass quite short and it was reasonably firm and springy underfoot. Funny, but after paying £10 at no point during the round did I consciously think about the conditioning?

Colin,

I wouldn't say barren, I would say beautiful, but each to their own.  

Niall,

It rains in Scotland?  

Rich,

I do realise that such a location will often be battered, and I mean battered, by the weather. We got lucky that day, but I'd like to think I'd have enjoyed the course just as much if it was driver, 3 wood, 6 iron to the first!

Cheers,

James

[Rich Goodale]

Thanks, James

My lasting impression, however, was the 9th, where hitting down a 40-50mph wind and downhill I punched an easy 9-iron solidly which rose along with the gale for about 100 yards and then plummeted like a rock into the chasm.  Whoever said that playing downwind was easy!

[James Boon]

Is this a downland type course or more of Links?

Jason,

Robert Price's excellent book Scotland's Golf Courses refers to it as being a raised beach / raised marine platform, so not links or down land really. Some of these raised platforms have a good degree of blown sand which will give a links feel but I'm not sure Durness has too much of this. I have a couple of geeky geology apps on my phone... They tell me it's sedimentary bedrock with sandy loam over.

I'm not seeing anything there that tells me anything other than ideal for golf, but again it's based on just one play in ideal weather 

Cheers,

James

[Peter Pallotta]

James - let me add my thanks too. Others (Brian S, Colin M etc) have said it wonderfully well already. I'll just add that my first thought was a short Q and A, as follows:

Q: What's this?
A: This? This is golf

Or a longer Q and A:

Q: This is golf? Here, at Durness?
A: That's what it is, and all that it is. Nothing more, and nothing less.

Q: You're saying that I should play it then?
A: Play it, absolutely, and remember: if you don't like this, then you don't like golf, or understand it.

Q: You seem to be over-reacting, over-praising what is after all just a short and modest 9 hole course.
A: Yes, short, modest, unassuming -- you're right. But it's also the very lifeblood of this great game!

Q: i bet you still play with persimmons, don't you?

[Cliff Walston]

That looks awesome!  Thanks for sharing.

[Jon Wiggett]

Hi James,

good photo tour of Durness. It is a lovely setting and a fun course to play. I am looking forward to your tour of Helmsdale and what you thought of it.

Ulrich,

I think that Durness is exactly what it says on the tin. It is the course of village golf club relying on much goodwill and hard work. It may not have the same conditioning and facilities as some of the bigger courses but then for £10 winter and £20 normal rate I think it probably beats all the big names on value for money.

Jon

[Thomas Dai]

I would suggest that this, and many other similar courses, are the real backbone of the game and when the phrase 'growing the game' is used this sort of course has more merit than mega-buck 18-hole facilities.

A great many long term golfers started at courses akin to this. Places with a lack of pomposity, cheap and cheerful and above all, fun.

atb

[James Boon]

James -
Q: i bet you still play with persimmons, don't you?

PP,

I have a half set of blades, an old Taylor Made Raylor (early small headed metal fairway wood) and a persimmon headed driver that I try to take out during the summer months for a bit of fun. Perhaps I should take them with me on holiday next time I head to the Highlands?

Cheers,

James

[James Boon]

On to Bonar Bridge, or for its full title Bonar Bridge Ardgay Golf Club (Ardgay is the village on the other side of the bridge) which was opened in 1904 but its current layout dates back to 1998. Peter Allis is said to have described the course as a "mini Gleneagles" and with the rolling landscape, heather, pine and view of Loch Migdale he isn't far from the truth.

First up, the obligatory honesty box. Sometimes the clubhouse will be open to allow you in to pick up a scorecard and envelope even if no one is around.

As I have a tendency to play early morning a few tips for playing these delightful courses:
- Always carry cash.
- Make sure you have a couple of small envelopes and a pen for putting your money in.
- Check the internet beforehand and make a note of the scorecard yardages.

Just inside the clubhouse a handy course map and note regarding 125 yard markers (which I only spotted after my round having spent most of it struggling to fathom out if they were 100 or 150???)


The clubhouse, again ideally sized, seen from the first tee, with the 9th green to its side and its narrow fairway beyond and over the hill


Hole 1, 354 yards, par 4
Early morning dew and a low sun, dont make for easy photography with an iPhone, but you can see the hole going away from the boundary then doglegging back to the left over rumpled fairway


Hole 2, 297 yards, par 4
The second tees off over the first green and is downhill all the way, thus opening up stunning views, again obscured by my lack of photographic talent directly into the sun! Here is a closer view of the green with a small burn running across the front.


A walk through the trees to get to the next hole, but as discussed previously, it doesnt seem such a bind through a beautiful piece of woodland to open up a view from the next tee...


Hole 3, 171 yards, par 3
A downhill par 3 with not much trouble short, to allow for an easy run in shot, after you have been distracted by the view of the loch in the background


The green seen from the next tee off to the right


Hole 4, 352 yards, par 4
Heather and pine in abundance on this hole


Looking back down onto the green from the path to the next tee


Hole 5, 500 yards, par 5
You dont often get a par 5 squeezed into these short 9 hole courses, so this does make for a pleasant change. A hard dogleg left with pines on the left bank and a series of burns off to the right meaning you cant really open your shoulders!


The forward tee built into the stone dyke


One last look back over the undulating green to the open view in the distance, before heading back into the pines


Hole 6, 174 yards, par 3
A solid par 3 with a tall pine encroaching on the front right of the green instead of a bunker. Seen here from behind the green with the next fairway below and off to the right


Hole 7, 285 yards, par 4
Doesn't play as short as you might think. Uphill approach shot to a raised green with a steep drop off behind



Hole 8, 137 yards, par 3
A flat par 3 through the trees which in comparison to what has gone before is probably the only slightly dull moment. Simple wooden board painted with the hole information and a painted stone as the tee marker


Hole 9, 311 yards, par 4
Don't be fooled by the yardage, this is quite a tough little finish! A narrow drive between a stone dyke and out of bounds, with tall pines on the other side, over a blind ridge


But find the fairway and its a simple pitch to the welcoming final green


So that's par 34, 2,581 yards for the 9 holes and well worth it, for yet again the winter green fee of £10!

Cheers,

James

[Niall C]

James

Great to see Bonar Bridge again. David Tepper put me onto it and I walked it a couple of years ago. Kicking myself that I didn't play it.

The other nine holer David (and Jon) put me on to was Tarbat GC at Portmahomack. Did you manage to take that in on your travels ?

Niall

[James Boon]

Niall,

Tarbat was originally one I was going to play but as I ended up playing Durness when I wasn't expecting to, I didn't play it this time. Maybe next time and a trip to the west for Gairloch is certainly on the cards also!

Cheers,

James

[Niall C]

James

I don't think you'd be disappointed in it. Some fairly humdrum/pleasant holes, some holes with wild fairway contours and and a couple more with Painswick style old quarry features. Well worth a visit. Mind you, you might need to save up as I think the green fee is £15.

Niall

[David_Tepper]

"a trip to the west for Gairloch is certainly on the cards also!"

James -

Greetings from Dornoch! Arrived yesterday. Sorry our visits did not overlap.

Thanks for the photo tours. I have yet to make it up to Durness (or Wick or Reay for that matter). Bonar Bridge is especially pretty in August when the heather is in bloom.

I have played Gairloch. An interesting mix of holes for sure. A round there combined with a visit to the Inverewe botanical gardens makes for a nice day out. The drive along the south shore of Loch Maree has some stunning scenery.

If you do play Gairloch some day, don't forget to wear a helmet.

DT

[Jon Wiggett]

James,

if you are going to play Gairloch which is a fun course then it is worth getting to Ullapool as well which is a better course IMO and having a crack at Loch Carron which is quirky (especially the first 3 holes) though probably more of an add on to a trip to the Applecross Inn for a bite to eat. Fun drive across there up the switch back road in that car of yours.

Jon

[Thomas Dai]

James,

Excellent to see this Bonar Bridge tour. One again a small Clubhouse. All that's needed really. I believe some photos of Bonar Bridge were posted a few months ago. It does look nice.

atb

PS:

I've heard the 9-hole course Fort Augustus is pretty nice as well.

Portmahomack too. Looked interesting when I last passed-by. No time to play it regrettably.