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Art Roselle

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Remote Scotland
« on: February 02, 2011, 04:56:45 PM »
A friend and I are considering a trip to the very far reaches of northern Scotland.  We have played Dornoch and Brora and we will likely hit those again, but our new definition of remote is a step beyond even Brora (if that is possible).  So, I would appreciate any advice about what is worth playing and how to think about a trip like that in general.  We will be a twosome, with a car, somewhat off season (probably May) and so we are trying to find places where the golf is fun, the scenery is beautiful and we are likely to be the only people on the course, other than sheep.

Some of the courses we have looked into and heard at least some good reports on are Wick, Reay, Durness and Stromness (in the Orkneys).  I have heard almost nothing about Thurso, but what I have heard is not terribly inspiring.

If we decide to venture more west instead, I have also heard good things about Traigh, but it is probably too far out of the way.  Likewise for the Isle of Harris (www.harrisgolf.com) which looks incredibly pretty, but is only nine holes and bloody hard to get to.  Still, our itinerary is completely unformed at this point and so if there is some better way or better area to get remote, Brora-like golf, off the beaten path, then I am all ears.

Thanks
Art

David_Tepper

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2011, 05:12:34 PM »
Art -

I have spent a fair amount of time in the Dornoch area over the past 7 years. I have not played golf any further north than Brora.

From what I have heard (and the pictures I have seen), the courses most worth seeing (and playing) in the northern Highlands are Durness (9-holes), Reay & Wick. I have played the 9-hole course at Gairloch, which is full of quirk, but not really worth the drive (although the drive is beautiful).

In the Dornoch area, Goslpie & Tain are well worth playing and the 9-hole Tarbat course (at Portmahomack) is also fun. The 9-hole Bonar Bridge course is a nice change if you are looking to get away from the seaside.

When are you planning to make the trip? I will be there May 7 to June 3.

DT
« Last Edit: February 02, 2011, 05:31:16 PM by David_Tepper »

Melvyn Morrow

Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2011, 05:22:03 PM »

Art

Venture West

Machrihanish http://www.machgolf.com/
Machrie  http://www.machrie.com/machrie-golf-links.html
Askernish http://www.askernishgolfclub.com/
Stornoway http://www.stornowaygolfclub.co.uk/

7 courses on the Isla of Arran – Special offers to play all the Arran courses
Lamlash  http://www.lamlashgolfclub.co.uk/
Lochranza  http://www.lochranzagolf.com/
Brodick http://www.brodickgolf.com/
Corrie  http://www.uk-golfguide.com/corrie-golf-club
Whiting Bay  http://www.whitingbaygolfclub.org.uk/
Shiskine  http://www.shiskinegolf.com/
Machrie Bay  http://www.machriebay.com/

Hope that helps

Melvyn

John Shimp

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2011, 05:25:14 PM »
Art,
sounds like its north and not west but Machrie on Islay and Shiskine on Arran sound really cool.  Machrahanish (not what it appears your after in a course) is also out that way.  Great whisky too.  Used to drive by on the submarine and wish I were swinging and drinking instead of punching holes in the water....

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +3/-1
Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2011, 05:30:44 PM »
Art:

Just go to Askernish for a few days.  You might be the first outsiders to play a couple of new greens there, in May.  And one of the main benefits is that you're likely to strike up a couple of games with the locals who resurrected the place.  It is VERY out of the way, but worth staying and playing for 2-3 days which makes the trip okay.

JMEvensky

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2011, 05:39:53 PM »

  Used to drive by on the submarine and wish I were swinging and drinking instead of punching holes in the water....


   That's not a line you read every day.

Steve Salmen

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2011, 05:41:35 PM »
Art,

There is a book I would recommend called Preferred Lies by Andrew Greig.  He plays and describes a lot of courses that would interest you.


David_Tepper

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2011, 06:00:20 PM »
Art -

This article by David Own ("Back-roads Scotland") about playing some of the little known courses in Scotland appeared in the October, 2007 issue of Golf Digest:

http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-courses/golf-travel/2007-10/scotland

I second Steve Salmen's recommendation of Andrew Grieg's book.

There are also a number of "local" courses along the Moray Firth coastline worth a visit such as Cullen, Spey Bay, Duff House Royal, Royal Tarlair, etc. They would not be considered remote, but you are not likely to see any golf tour buses in those parking lots. Fortrose & Rosemarkie, on the Black Isle north of Inverness, is also well worth a visit. 

DT
« Last Edit: February 02, 2011, 06:05:21 PM by David_Tepper »

Jon Wiggett

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2011, 06:33:56 PM »
Art,

I can recomend Wick as a great example of a traditional links and Bonar Bridge is worth a trip. Also the 9 holer at Helmsdale is really quirky and only takes about 1 hour for 9 holes. Reay is also enjoyable and most people like Durness (though I did not appreciate it as much as I probably should have. As DT says Portmahomack is a good 9 holer set in a lovely Scottish fishing village.

Jon

Art Roselle

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2011, 09:06:20 AM »
Thanks for all the thoughts.  I was not very clear in my post, but we are actually probably targeting May of 2012.  We just need something to think about during this miserable winter, so we are getting a head start.

Going west may be a better call.  There are certainly more courses and more great courses, but our original goal was to play places that nobody had every heard of and stay as far north as possible. Looking at the websites for Askernish and Machrie make it hard to stick to that plan though.  So, here are a few more questions:
How busy is Machrihanish?  They have pretty easy ferry service to it from Ayrshire, but I assume it is still pretty quiet in May.
How is Machrihanish Dunes?
How hard is it to get from one island to the next on a trip like this?  Is it realistic to play courses on Kintyre, Uist and Islay all in a one week trip.
Any info on the nine hole courses on the Isle of Harris or Traigh Golf Club (near Mallaig)?

Thanks
Art

jeffwarne

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2011, 09:17:38 AM »
Thanks for all the thoughts.  I was not very clear in my post, but we are actually probably targeting May of 2012.  We just need something to think about during this miserable winter, so we are getting a head start.

Going west may be a better call.  There are certainly more courses and more great courses, but our original goal was to play places that nobody had every heard of and stay as far north as possible. Looking at the websites for Askernish and Machrie make it hard to stick to that plan though.  So, here are a few more questions:
How busy is Machrihanish?  They have pretty easy ferry service to it from Ayrshire, but I assume it is still pretty quiet in May.
How is Machrihanish Dunes?
How hard is it to get from one island to the next on a trip like this?  Is it realistic to play courses on Kintyre, Uist and Islay all in a one week trip.
Any info on the nine hole courses on the Isle of Harris or Traigh Golf Club (near Mallaig)?

Thanks
Art

Art,
It is totally reasonable to play Kintyre and,Uist, and Islay.
Day 1 Take the ferry to Arran play Shiskine (12),take 30 min ferry to Kintyre play carradale (9)
Day 2 Play Macrihanish ,play Dunaverty
Day 3 play Machrihansih Dunes drive to Islay ferry, take ferry- play some/18 holes at Islay
Day 4 play 18 at Islay catch ferry to mainland-drive to Glasgow-stay Glasgow
day 5 fly to Askernish(45 min)-play Askernish from noon-dark
Day 6 play Askernish catch late afternoon flight to Glasgow
Day 7 fly back

Extra day?
stay another day at Askernish or  Islay or on day one catch Prestwick ,Western gailles, or West Kilbride near ferry to Arran
« Last Edit: February 03, 2011, 09:26:39 AM by jeffwarne »
"Let's slow the damned greens down a bit, not take the character out of them." Tom Doak
"Take their focus off the grass and put it squarely on interesting golf." Don Mahaffey

Adam Lawrence

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2011, 09:25:32 AM »
Art

You have to separate the northern (Outer) Hebrides from the Inner. The only way, for example, to get from Islay to Uist is via the mainland, either by flying back to Glasgow, or sailing back to Oban and picking up another ferry. To do a full golfing tour of the Hebrides (counting Kintyre as an island, which for these purposes it might as well be) would take quite a long time, and be a pretty gruelling itinerary. But you can do, say, Arran, Kintyre and Islay (and perhaps the nine-hole course on Gigha, which isn't anything special but is worth popping into if you're passing) quite happily in a week.

I spent a week at Machrihanish in May a few years ago; the weather was quite good (I still think May is consistently the best weather month in the west of Scotland), and the course was quiet. I liked the Dunes when I saw it in 2009, but one must accept that, given how it has been created, it is a work in progress and will continue to be so for some years. And its routing is compromised by the environmental restrictions, making it a pretty long walk.

I haven't played the Harris course, but have driven past, and it is a really beautiful spot when the weather is nice. The famous connection there is Nick Faldo, who stopped and played there while on holiday once. You paid your green fee into an honesty box, which he did, also leaving a note, so they now play for the Faldo Fiver as a trophy.

Of Askernish I have written much; suffice to say I really believe it is a place every golfer should see if he can, and I honestly think that with time it will come to be regarded as a world-class golf course.

There is a ferry linking North Uist and Harris, so you can drive the length of the Outer Isles if you wish. The eastern side of Harris has to be seen to be believed - it is so rocky as to be like a moonscape, and it is hard to comprehend how the islanders survived when they were forced to move off the fertile machair on the west of the island in the nineteenth century, to make way for sheep (and very easy to understand why so many of them emigrated to Canada).

I love the Hebrides, and would happily spend a holiday pottering around, playing a few of rounds of golf in between hillwalking, visiting distilleries and the like. But it is a tougher agenda if golf is the be all and end all of your trip.
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Art Roselle

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2011, 09:32:54 AM »

Art,
It is totally reasonable to play Kintyre and,Uist, and Islay.
Day 1 Take the ferry to Arran play Shiskine (12),take 30 min ferry to Kintyre play carradale (9)
Day 2 Play Macrihanish ,play Dunaverty
Day 3 play Machrihansih Dunes drive to Islay ferry, take ferry- play some/18 holes at Islay
Day 4 play 18 at Islay catch ferry to mainland-drive to Glasgow-stay Glasgow
day 5 fly to Askernish(45 min)-play Askernish from noon-dark
Day 6 play Askernish catch late afternoon flight to Glasgow
Day 7 fly back

Extra day?
stay another day at Askernish or  Islay or on day one catch Prestwick ,Western gailles, or West Kilbride near ferry to Arran

Well, that is certainly no crazier than our original itinerary, which involved taking the overnight ferry from the Orkneys to Aberdeen, in order to play TOC on our way back to Edinburgh for the flight home.  The efficiency of the night travel seemed brilliant, until I started imagining myself hurling over the railing at 3AM as we crashed through the North Sea.

Speaking of which, anybody played (or know anything about) Stromness or Orkney Golf Club.  If we stay north, then it looks like a pretty easy ferry ride from Thurso.

Thanks again
Art

jeffwarne

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2011, 09:44:17 AM »

Art,
It is totally reasonable to play Kintyre and,Uist, and Islay.
Day 1 Take the ferry to Arran play Shiskine (12),take 30 min ferry to Kintyre play carradale (9)
Day 2 Play Macrihanish ,play Dunaverty
Day 3 play Machrihansih Dunes drive to Islay ferry, take ferry- play some/18 holes at Islay
Day 4 play 18 at Islay catch ferry to mainland-drive to Glasgow-stay Glasgow
day 5 fly to Askernish(45 min)-play Askernish from noon-dark
Day 6 play Askernish catch late afternoon flight to Glasgow
Day 7 fly back

Extra day?
stay another day at Askernish or  Islay or on day one catch Prestwick ,Western gailles, or West Kilbride near ferry to Arran

Well, that is certainly no crazier than our original itinerary, which involved taking the overnight ferry from the Orkneys to Aberdeen, in order to play TOC on our way back to Edinburgh for the flight home.  The efficiency of the night travel seemed brilliant, until I started imagining myself hurling over the railing at 3AM as we crashed through the North Sea.

Speaking of which, anybody played (or know anything about) Stromness or Orkney Golf Club.  If we stay north, then it looks like a pretty easy ferry ride from Thurso.

Thanks again
Art

Art,
The drive to the ferry to arran from Glasgow is 45 min, the ferry is 1:45 (great spot for a hot meal)
the ferry to Kintyre is 30 min
None of those days involves a long drive except the drive from Islay to Glasgow (ferry 2 hours-lunch again) 3 hours to Glasgow
I did the itinerary in reverse in less days(without the trip to Askernish)
lots of driving up north-might require more days than a week
I didn't see a soul at islay or Mach Dunes in September
« Last Edit: February 03, 2011, 10:05:03 AM by jeffwarne »
"Let's slow the damned greens down a bit, not take the character out of them." Tom Doak
"Take their focus off the grass and put it squarely on interesting golf." Don Mahaffey

Ross Tuddenham

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2011, 09:55:30 AM »
I played Traigh once while camping at the near by camp site.  It is on an amazing spot.  Could be the best views of any UK seaside course. I found the course fun to play and something a little different.  It is not a links course despite proximity to the sea and is over very hilly terrain. 

There is one pretty mad hole, the second I think.  You play across a ravine to an upper fairway on the same level, or if you go too far left onto a fairway about 50 foot lower. Not sure it is officially the same hole but many seem to suffer the fate of the lower fairway.  It is a short par 5 of 450 yards but in the wind I played a 5 was a happy score.

Phil McDade

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2011, 04:56:23 PM »
I'd second Ross' views on Traigh -- somewhat linksy, I'd suggest, because it essentially plays in and around some old dunescapes. Not sure it's a true links, but links-like. Nicely undulating terrain -- the 2nd is a wonderful hole -- two choices on the drive: a carry to the top of a dune, which gives a legitimate shot at the green below, or winding your way around the dune. Some very quirky sub-300 yard par 4s as well. Beautiful, simple white clubhouse, and the course has wonderful views, including Eigg and Rum. I went around four times in a day.

But it is remote -- the road to Traigh west of Fort William is one-lane for the most part, and winding. It felt more remote than even Machrihanish, which is pretty darn remote. Once at Traigh, there's nowhere to go but back (unless you want to hop up to Mallaig for the ferry to Skye, or the small boat to Knoydart -- now that's really remote).

I'd also second the island-hopping suggestions of Jeff via the Cal-Mac ferries (quite reliable). Easy way to get from Glasgow to Machrihanish and then Islay; the 12-hole Shiskine on Arran is the best of the courses there, all are a bit quirky.

James Boon

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2011, 05:05:06 PM »
Art,

I can't really add anything new, but to back up what some have already said. If you want remote Scotland, the the Western Isles aka the Outer Hebrides is the way to go, and the reason is Askernish. As Adam did, I only saw Harris GC from the road which looked great fun and a great setting, but Askernish is worth the trip alone to the Outer Hebrides alone. However, spend a little time on the islands meeting the locals and experiencing the life. Far to many people make these journeys and just run around golfing...

Also, I always get the sense that some people refer to Brora as remote and rugged, and yet it really is a genuine quality golf course. It might have sheep wandering around, but for me its one of Braid's finest!

Cheers,

James
2023 Highlights: Hollinwell, Brora, Parkstone, Cavendish, Hallamshire, Sandmoor, Moortown, Elie, Crail, St Andrews (Himalayas & Eden), Chantilly, M, Hardelot Les Pins

"It celebrates the unadulterated pleasure of being in a dialogue with nature while knocking a ball round on foot." Richard Pennell

Ulrich Mayring

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #17 on: February 04, 2011, 08:09:37 PM »
Wick is funny, because they managed to build the course right *beside* the large dunes instead of in it. It may be your most painful golfing experience to play on flat and almost agricultural land right next to a patch of great linksland :)

Durness is also funny, if you have a sense of humour. The first hole is extreme and the routing only gets weirder. Then you have a stretch of holes in a true Highlands scenery, which is not very frequently found in Scotland, especially not on seaside courses. And they managed to add an American style par 5 that plays around a lake and a par 3 played from a rocky promontory over the beach. All of that in nine holes!

Yes, they're both quirky courses, but the quality of the Golf out west is better.

Ulrich
Golf Course Exposé (300+ courses reviewed), Golf CV (how I keep track of 'em)

Jon Wiggett

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Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2011, 09:57:02 PM »
Ulrich,

I think you will find that it was not practicle to put the course at Wick though the large dune between it an the sea. Also if you ever walk across the land below this dune it is quite boggy on the whole. Although the front nine is quite flat the back nine especially after the 12th is classic links golf across undulating terrain. I do agree there is plenty of excellent land around it though. However, to describe playing Wick as a painful experience is really a bit strong. To my mind it is well worth the trip as is Reay and Helmsdale or Bonar Bridge.

So you think that Ullapool and Lochcarron are better? I think they are out west :-)

Jamie Barber

Re: Remote Scotland
« Reply #19 on: February 08, 2011, 04:12:31 AM »
I've also played Traigh. I didn't think it was the greatest golf course, but the setting is breathtaking (well, maybe not if it's pouring!).

The only thing is as above - it is VERY remote.