Was it spiritual? In a golf sense, yes. All I know is that it was one of my greatest golf experiences...
What surprised you the most? The flatness, the size and movement of the greens. Also, excluding 5-6 holes, I was surprised how difficult it was for me to remember the individual holes (which usually comes pretty easy to me) after one round.
How was the weather? Everything cooperated except the wind, which was blowing 45 mph steady, gusting to 60 mph. At 8 am I walked over to the posted tee sheet and saw 4 foursomes (2 from the R&A, 2 from St. Andrews GC) crossed off, obviously canceling b/c of the wind. Having only one chance to play, I would have gone out in a hurricane. I dropped two balls on the putting green, only to watch them both be blown 20 feet off the green by the wind. You had to put your tee in the ground at a 45 degree angle into the wind in order to be able to tee up the ball, otherwise it would blow over. On more than one occasion, after not setting it down parellel to the wind, my golf BAG blew 15-20 yards away. My playing partners opening drive, a three wood that probably would have gone 180-200 yards in normal conditions, was blown backwards, almost hitting us and ending up out of bounds BEHIND us....
Who did you play with? It was mid February and I felt like I was the only tourist in St. Andrews at the time. The starter told me a father and son were waiting to tee off and that I could join them if I wanted to. It ended up they were from metro Detroit. I grew up in Michigan and at the time was living in metro Detroit. Out around #8, a single caught up to us and in a familiar accent, asked if he could join us. Low and behold he lived about 10 minutes from me in Birmingham, MI. I flew half way around the world to play a course in Scotland in February only to get paired with 3 guys who all lived within 40 min of me.
Was it The Holy Grail? It sure felt like it. More so than the course was just the town of St. Andrews in general. I can't imagine a town more immersed in golf than St. Andrews. I fell in love, even in February...