I am writing this from on board the NationalExpress train from Waverley Station in Edinburgh to King's Cross, London. A week ago, my father and I headed from Edinburgh up to Crail, where we stayed at the second home of a couple who stayed two weeks at our condo in Pawleys Island, SC in April (home-swap thing). We played seven straight days of golf at Crail-Balcomie, St. Andrews (New), St. Andrews (Old), Lundin GC, Elie, Scotscraig, then Crail once more yesterday before heading to London to see family for the next week or so. It was my first experience with links golf and I had an absolute blast. We were so excited to get to play TOC on the ballot system, and it did not disappoint! I'd rank the golf courses we played at follows:
6. St. Andrews (New)
T3. Crail (Balcomie)
T3. Lundin
T3. Elie
2. Scotscraig
1. St. Andrews (Old)
Even though the New Course makes the bottom of my list, I'd still consider it a good-to-very good course that I would quite enjoy playing on a future visit to Fife.
I hope to comment on the courses individually at a later point, aided by pictures (the only shots I got myself were of Balcomie Links yesterday, but my dad took pictures at all the other courses, so I hope to get a few of those). Overall, I found links golf to be a lot of fun above all else. Not being able to play many full shots puts quite a premium on one's touch around the greens. As a player with a weaker short than long game, I nonetheless surprised myself at times with a few long chip-and-run shots around the greens; getting up and down on #11 at TOC out of Hill (you know, the one Bobby Jones got really fed up in
) bunker was a lot of fun too!
One thing that frustrated me a few times over here was the fierce, IMO-overzealous protection of the "Medal" tees at many of these clubs. I certainly understand the aversion to letting any old person play from the longest tees for fear of pace-of-play issues, but I'd been under the impression that the recommendation to bring a handicap certificate with you to the UK would take care of that. At Crail it wasn't a problem because the course is less than 6000 yards from the tips, but everywhere else, save for Scotscraig, when I showed proof of my handicap (0.8, now 0.3) to those in charge, I was denied access to the back tees, except for two holes at Elie. Now I understand that I wouldn't, and shouldn't be allowed to play, say, the Open tees at St. Andrews (both Old and New), but the white tees at ~6700 yards reserved for pros only? That was a bit frustrating. As a result, I was hitting little more than wedges into almost every par 4 I played. I don't mind the low scores (I shot even par 72 and 71 at TOC and Lundin, respectively, without playing spectacular golf), but it would have been even more fun to have been able to test myself in that way. I don't mean to sound like a whiny brat, but I'm just curious as to the obsession with "pros only" at those yardages. If the US Am champion went to play the New Course at St. Andrews, would he be denied the Medal tees he deserved to play (based on his ability) because he wasn't a professional (NOTE: I don't mean to imply that I'm anywhere near good enough to win a US Am; just a thought question)?
That all said, it's not like the golf was ruined because of the shorter-than-expected courses. I had a wonderful time, and can't wait to return. But I have a little more golf to play before leaving the Isles, highlighted by a late graduation (from high school) gift round a Sunningdale from my auntie. Stay tuned.
Cheers!
--Tim Gavrich