We played Carnoustie, Lundin, Crail Balcomie, The Old Course, Royal Dornoch, Brora and Nairn, in that order. Stayed 3 nights in St. Andrews, and then 3 nights in Dornoch. Only course we wouldn't play again was Crail.
Ferguson will not book you on TOC. You have to arrange that yourself or ballot when you get over there. I applied on the first date you could apply in Sept. 2005, but we were unsuccessful. We balloted three days while over there, but were also unsuccessful. We got on by just hanging around and talking with the starter, and eventually got the last tee time on a Tuesday. I think the dates we were there (the last week in August) were bad for trying to get on TOC. The R&A took 13 or 14 tee times each of the three days we were balloting.
Everybody in my group liked Carnoustie. It was not as hard as we had expected. Not that we tore it up, but we all felt it was a very fair course. Good shots were rewarded and bad shots penalized. Last 4 holes were pretty tough. In fact, my caddie said he would waive his fee if I played the last 4 in even par. He had obviously made that bet before. I doubt he fails to collect his fee very often, if ever. First 5 holes at Crail were good, and in general the first 14 were pretty good. But the last 4 holes kind of feel tacked on in some land that's apart from the first part of the course. Not a bad course, but compared to the ones we played the rest of the trip it was the one we enjoyed the least. All enjoyed Lundin and TOC. As a group of courses, we all liked Royal Dornoch, Brora and Nairn better than the St. Andrews area courses we played. That's not to say anything bad about the Fife courses, just that we really liked the Highlands courses we played.
I've got a couple of threads going on the board that has photos from my trip. Take a look and see what you think. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk further.