Movable greens, not floating

[Josh Smith]

A green where you could totally adjust the size and edge locations by 20 yards or so to produce a dramatically different playing elements year to year.

Would it ever be worthwhile with the right owner and budget to build a large parcel of turf with a greens profile at each greensite (or a select few) and adjust the mowing once a year or so to completely change the edges of the green to get into adjacent contours.  Or almost move the green entirely into adjacent contours.

I know the costs could be huge and the change over would have a few weeks of unusual playing conditions.  I know it may mean a sprinkler head might have to be in the putting surface.  I know it may mean that the approach collar areas would likely always need to be very low given the grass type, which is a good thing.  Could the pros possibly outweigh the cons on this?

I thought of it years ago when my friend told me that at St. Andrews they adjust the mowing lines of greens occasionally.  Most likely it would be pulled off more easily at sites like Bandon or the sandy ground where Ballyneal and Sand Hills sit.  As opposed to at USGA green spec sites.
Also, having fescue everywhere would help.

Your thoughts and ideas on this......

[Craig Sweet]

Hey, the Cardinals play football on a field that can move inside or outside.

[Norbert P]

 It would be a very difficult idea to pull off.  Once grasses grow a little higher, their culms grow higher as well. If the grass goes from say 1/2" to 3/16" (high by today's standards) you'd be putting on stressed out culms with little or no blade to garner the suns's energy. Sort of like putting on grass stumps. It would also create inconsistent speeds.     Like you say, it would work best for a fescue environment.

  I like the outside-of-the-box thinking Josh, but it would be tough on a Super's routine - and nerves. 

But I am no expert, nor a Super.

[Garland Bayley]

It would be a very difficult idea to pull off.  Once grasses grow a little higher, their culms grow higher as well. If the grass goes from say 1/2" to 3/16" (high by today's standards) you'd be putting on stressed out culms with little or no blade to garner the suns's energy. Sort of like putting on grass stumps. It would also create inconsistent speeds.     Like you say, it would work best for a fescue environment.

  I like the outside-of-the-box thinking Josh, but it would be tough on a Super's routine - and nerves. 

But I am no expert, nor a Super.

Thanks Slagbert! I have always wondered how that worked.

[Forrest Richardson]

At The Links at Las Palomas, where we have just one variety of turf — and a 20 depth of sand! — we change mowing limits at greens every so often. At present we are working to create an entire new portion of No. 14 that will be a punchbowl behind the existing green. This is being done with mowing and a nominal amount of top dressing to even out some bumps we do not want. Other than that, the adjustment is "free."



This cannot be done at most clubs because the turf, profile and irrigation — and drainage, etc. — are all too complicated.

Another reason that basics and appropriate sites are ideal. And, I might add that this pursuit is evidence that golf courses are supposed to change...one of my firm beliefs.

[Norbert P]

where we have just one variety of turf — and a 20 depth of sand! 

  I might add that this pursuit is evidence that golf courses are supposed to change...one of my firm beliefs.

Forrest, what is that variety of turf?

  Is the existing green going to remain as a green, meaning, is the punchbowl merely an extension? 

 Interesting statement that you finished with.

[Josh Smith]

Anyone else see potential in this idea?