Kyle,
I hesitated to respond, and didn't have the time until sleeping in this morning, but here goes, from a professional viewpoint.
First, for a "Tribute" Paw Bunker, visit the 5th hole at Colbert Hills at KSU.....and add a toe.....However, cartoon artists will tell you hands just look better with fewer digits.
I would focus on the routing first, getting it just where it works before any more thought went into bunkering. I think the pattern works, but wonder if you draw cross sections if you wouldn't find:
Hole 1 - Middle tee is on hill, and will require some fill for the back tee. Not a killer, and I've done it to get necessary/desired length, but probably more natural just to put the back tee on the hill top.
1 Green is in a swale. Pushing it east (assuming north is up) to where the center is 150 or so feet from the property line makes the green present better, and alleviates drainage problems.
Hole 2 - This is a difficult reverse slope dogleg. If the tee pushed southeast right to the property line, it would open up the view down the fw compared to where it is located. Was there anything preventing playing across to the south of the swale, so that the tee shot would be playing into the upslope across the creek? The hole might work better on that flatter ground.
Hole 3 - The road ideally runs right on the hilltop. This gives room to spread 3 tee out, and lengthen the hole. It could be combined with nine tee, and/or let the champ tee play over a little used entrance road for "old time character." It also raises the tee at least 10 feet, providing a better look over the knob between the tee and true landing area. It will probably still need to get cut anyway, but you need fill material from somewhere. And, it appears your first dogleg point calls for a 8 iron or so. It really should be somewhere further out. Overall, the hole uses the topo great!
Hole 4 - Good par 3. If you aren't against taking out a few trees, the green could slide north to the top of the knob, providing a rare perched green. All of the others seem to be nicely cut into hillsides, so why not make this one a bit different?
Hole 5 - You are dealing with excessive cross slope. Its possible that moving the fw sw to find the gentlest contour will make the hole grade out a bit easier, but conceptually this hole is great.
Hole 6 - As mentioned, the 3/7 tee area is really too tight. However, this green works anywhere along that slope equally, and actually, playing more perpendicular to the slope, across the valley makes it present better than parallellling the contours, so I would move it south to open up some room. Again, the green sits now in soft swale, and moving it south to the little rise in the slope there minimizes drainage problems.
Hole 7 - With the room created by moving 3 tee and 6 green, get the tee to where 8 green sits now. As is stands, its in a valley, sitting at about 1220 (same as dogleg) with a 1255 inbetween, meaninga 25 foot cut. From the hilltop, this is reduced.
Hole 8 - Again, tee is in swale, but there is room behind it to elevate and dry out the tee, while gaining some par 5 length. I understand you may prefer this late hole to be a gambling hole, but in my revisions, 3 and 6 would be equal lengths but play in opposite winds, meaning they would never play the same length, except in a crosswind. Also, while you would need to cut the 1270 knob more, 8 green could be shortened up off the very top of the hill to the midslope to attain the length you wanted.
Hole 9 - There is more potential on this hole than putting the lake outside fw bunkers, whether its a cape hole, double fairway, etc. You could also consider shifting the green east, as it would move down the hill, slide by the ch and be more visible.
Just my thoughts. If it makes a consolation, I don't finish a routing on less than a dozen tries and as I said, this is a good pattern for a first run. I just know that if it was real, and you walked it in the field, you would probably see better ways to do things.
Just my $0.02. Hope it helps.