A little more than a year ago, I saw a magazine article in which Tom Doak named the most interesting courses he had seen recently. One was Himalayan Golf Course in Nepal. Never having even heard of the course, I visited the course's website and, from the stunning photos on it, dreamed of getting there one day.
For many years I had wanted to visit Nepal (having even written a children's book, Sally and the Yeti, partly set there that hasn't quite made it to the New York Times bestseller list
), and this spring things finally lined up to visit this special country. While golf was most certainly not the main reason for the trip, I did manage to fit in part of a day at Himalayan Golf Course, and the decision to do so proved to be one of my wisest, as the course may well be the most amazing (a carefully selected word) on which I have ever set foot. Playing there was such a rush that at times I was close to hyperventilating (please, no comments on my fitness or mental stability!) as one superlative hole followed another. I had felt this way before at only a few other courses, all little known layouts in spectacular, remote settings - Fishers Island in 1986, Shiskine in 1998, Stonehaven in 2003. These courses all proved to be more than just pretty courses - they offered hole after hole of fascinating golf as well.
Himalayan Golf Course commands our attention at so many levels - the unparalleled setting, the excellent holes, the basic conditioning that works quite well, and the remarkable story of how an amateur architect envisioned and laid out the course, even expanding it from 9 to 16 holes. It is one of the most compelling stories in all golf. People think Sand Hills is remote; give me a break!
This photo by Ron Fream of the 6th hole was taken during the clearer fall months, when the Annapurnas are visible. Everyone who is serious about golf should find his way to Pokhara. There are more than enough non-golf reasons to visit Nepal (architect Ron Fream reckons he has visited the country more than 20 times!), and now there is a most valid golf reason to go as well. With so much to offer, there is no good reason for a golfer NOT to visit this former kingdom. (Note: While I did not play Yeti's Golf Course at Fulbari Resort, also just outside Pokhara, I am now kicking myself for missing it, as Ron Fream has sent several pictures and is high on the course as well.)
Since my return, friends have asked whether Himalayan Golf Course is a World Top 100 layout. That question is almost degrading to the course and misses the point of having one's spirits lifted to the degree that this course does. Some might argue about the modest length, the lack of long approach shots, etc., but to me the final determination is that there are no more than 50 (and perhaps closer to 25) other courses on the planet that I would rather play.
The warmth and hospitality of the Nepalis are well known. The caddie here is wading into the pond crossing the 1st fairway to retrieve the author’s less-than-ideal opening tee shot.Perhaps the biggest compliment to the course is that, after walking around it, a friend who had never even been on a golf course before professed her desire to take up the game. Balance her comments with the raves of the only two architects I know who have been there (Ron Fream and Tom Doak), and you have an unqualified triumph of a course.