Sean, I felt a little bit the same my first time round Baltray, but it definitely grows on you (speaking after two further plays each a couple of years apart, and also watching the pros (but not Mr S Lowry
) being brutaised by the place on Irish Open Saturday 2009). I think some of the holes around the clubhouse suffer in comparison to the holes out by the big barrier dune due to being on less interesting terrain, but IMO they are still strong enough holes mostly.
Interesting you mention Ganton in connection with Muirfield, as it is another 'inland links' that sometimes puts me back in mind of Baltray - being the course at Carton House bearing the name of the 2010 Ryder Cup winner. On a number of holes the land movement (and elements of fairway bunkering) at CH have (for me) distinct echoes of Co Louth (and all the better for it). And thinking about it just now, they also have VERY similar 18th holes......This could be a completely wilda$$ theory of course - interested in other views.
On the other thread copied by Tony above, Ally cites the 14th at Baltray as perhaps his all-world favourite hole. There is definitely something enchanting about that end of the course - the 12th flows beautifully into the 13th, then you climb the hill to the 14th tee and see that view - very special. Last time I was there, I was playing with some Scottish visitors - their flirtation with Baltray became declared love on that tee.