Mike,
I played Stonehaven on a 10 day trip to Scotland last year and I enjoyed the course a lot. It is VERY QUIRKY, but interesting. The course is divided into three different parts (2 clifftop areas and a meadow). The Meadow portion of the course and some of the holes over a big ravine at the far portion of the course contain the most interesting holes, IMO. There are two back to back par 3s at the end of the front nine before you head into the meadow which are fun.
I have never played a course before where 1 & 18 cross. Plus, #5 crosses, not one, but 2 other holes! It is a blast to go and see, because I don't think you will find anything like it.