I played the course for the first time a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed,. It probably helped that I played well, the day was a stunning one (not a cloud in the sky and about 14 deg celsius), the flowers were in bloom, and we zipped around in under 4 hrs as a fourball, but I really enjoyed the course and the round.
The first 5 holes wind around probably the best land, being routed through some nice dunes. I really liked 1,2 and 3; 4 playes out into the flat part of the course and is not that great a hole, but 5 returns to the dunes and has a great green. 6, the famous par 5 (Hogan's Alley was wider than I imagined) takes you out into the flatter part of the course. I found the next half a dozen or so holes the least interesting, the par fours (esp 8, 9, and 10) being a bit of slog (although good driving holes). I'm not going to complain about 11, 12 and 13 though, since I birdied all three! Feel free to PM me if you want a stroke by stroke description of this birdie run ;-)
The finish is great though -- 14 through 18 are tough but enjoyable holes. 15 particularly was a bit of an eye opener, a long dogleg left (after having mostly doglegs to the right on previous holes) that was a driver/four iron for me to the back flag. 16, 17 and 18 are brutal, but not unfair: very demanding but still enjoyable holes. I was surprised how tough the green was on 16 for a 240 yard par 3 (I made an 8 footer for bogey). I doubled 18 to shoot 76, which normally would leave me cursing, but didn't because 6 was one better than Jean managed and after driving into the bunker off the tee I tried a ridiculous shot to carry the burn into the wind with a four iron, and almost made it!
I tell you what, if there is someone in the clubhouse tied for the lead with someone standing on 15 tee, put all you can on the guy in the clubhouse
So all in all it was more fun that I had imagined. While it's true that the course loses some of the linksy charm after the first 6 or 7 holes, it turns into the sort of very tough but potentially fair test that is more Muirfield than TOC. It's got a good mix of shorter holes (eg 3 a shortish 4, 13 a short 3), longer holes (eg 16 a long 3, 18 a long 4), a routing that means you pretty much have to deal with a different wind direction on each hole (a mostly outside/inside loop like Muirfield), and no obviously weak holes (in that the less interesting ones are still tough). If the R&A gets the set up right and the weather co-operates (tough but not ridiculous) it will be a great Open