[Jason Thurman]

I recently returned from a charmed family trip to the North Atlantic island, punctuated by a miraculous 8 consecutive rain-free days and a spectacular Northern Lights show on my parents’ final night abroad. After some debate about whether or not to try to play golf on a trip that promised lots of sights to see and a high potential for inclement weather, I came home absolutely thrilled with the 30 holes I played. In the leadup to the trip, I found very little information here about what to expect. So, I'll share a little for the next guy.

First, I’d like to revisit Golfklubbir Vestmannaeyjar. AKA Westman Island GC. Because it’s the single most breathtaking locale I’ve ever visited for golf.

The foggy ferry ride alone justified the cost of admission (although I found it best to just not think about the actual cost of anything in Iceland - it’s all expensive as hell). The harbor felt oddly located as we weaved through a very narrow gap in the rock on the way into shore (you can just see a glimpse of civilization behind the rocks and fog in the photo below). Apparently the approach was a bit less technical prior to the Eldfell eruption in 1971 that created much of the land seen to the left.


After a gorgeous ride over on an unseasonably warm day with highs near 60F/15C, I hoofed it about a mile to the course from the ferry terminal. Incredible reveals were a theme of the day: the reveal of one island in the chain after another through the fog on the ferry; the reveal of the harbor through the gap in the rock; the reveal of the course itself as you walk over the hill and gaze into the linksy volcanic valley below and then out to sea.

I didn’t really know what to expect - I knew the course would be scenic, but I couldn’t anticipate the sheer size of the old (but really, fairly young) volcanic crater that it plays astride. Or the deliciousness of the much smaller humps and rolls that punctuate the golf course itself. Any concerns I had about the course being all scenery and no substance disappeared immediately on first sight. This place has serious linksland contour, although the soil seemed heavier and softer than ideal.

I had read that it doesn’t photograph well because the course’s surroundings dwarf its features in a way that’s hard to capture on film in the same way that it shines in person. And I agree with that. The sheer scale of this location is hard to describe. One of the coolest things about Vestmannaeyjar is that the surrounding volcanic caldera gives a huge, majestic, black backdrop to so many shots. One of my favorite things in golf is watching a shot fly against a background that illuminates the ball vividly in a way that a plain blue sky can’t quite match. It happens over and over at Vestmannaeyjar. I didn’t take a ton of photos during the round, but for an idea of how large that caldera really is, take a look at the photo below and note things like the red windmill in the back right, of the fencing on the hillside left - the scale isn’t immediately appreciable at first glance, but that volcanic ridge is something like 800 feet tall.


Vestmannaeyjar is also chock full of VERY cool holes. I really liked the greensite of the short par 3 2nd. It sits in a little dell, with bunkers hiding all but the pin on a small green with a fierce right-to-left tilt.


The 3rd is a 370ish yard par 4 that plays across beautifully rumpled land before heading uphill to a tabletop green.


The 5th plays to a tremendous greensite, perched on a gnarly knoll with all sorts of surrounding crap leading to treacherous attempts at recovery shots.


And here’s what’s wild: you play the first 6 holes, and you’re going “Man, I can’t believe how good this is.” And you’re gawking at that caldera, and at the terrain, and then you go “Holy hell, we’ve got a 215 yard uphill par 3 to another mostly blind green.” And you muster up your best and hit it hard and start walking.

Remember that whole theme of reveals? Well, it’s not until you crest this ridge on the way to the green that you remember “That’s right! We’re playing a coastal course today! OMG look at all those little islands offshore!” I’ve never forgotten I was playing in a seaside setting before. And I didn’t literally forget it at Vestmannaeyjar, but it honestly had slipped my mind between all the other things I was taking in for those first few inland holes.


The course has a few flaws, to be fair. I’d guess it doesn’t play firm and fast very often, though I could be wrong. More notably, it has a handful of really long walkbacks. It’s almost 200 yards from 8 green back to 9 tee. Twice on the back nine, you finish putting out on one green, walk 150+ yards, and play a par 3 back to a green adjacent the one you just left. I suspect this is a function of the course’s multi-stage evolution, as it started with 6 holes and gradually expanded to its current layout.

And weirdly, the 16th hole occupies the most ocean frontage on the course and might also be the worst hole out there, although it has some awesome ingredients. It’s a short par 5 that bends along the coastline with a little Klondyke thing going on where it plays over a huge lava outcrop about 50 yards short of the green. But behind that outcrop is a pond, and to the right of the outcrop is internal OB that helps keep players coming up 18 safe but makes the second shot into 16 just a little too penal, whether going for the green or just challenging the Klondyke. It all just adds up to a really awkward final 100 yards that turns it into a hole that needs to be played pretty defensively where it could have been a really fun gambling par 5.

And after holing out, you do one of those walkbacks to play a par 3 to an adjacent green - it’s a bizarre 15 minutes in the routing and one I’m sorry not to be able to offer any photos of.

But man, when Vestmannaeyjar is at its best, it’s literally as good as any course anywhere. The combination of scenery and nowhere-else-in-the-world funk is unmatched. 13 gets my vote for best hole. The drive plays between a street to the left and a huge crater down the right, before the second shot bends to the left up the hill through a lava field with outcrops scattered throughout the route to a very cool benched green (on the left, below the bench on the hill).


This followed by the 14th, which plays through more lava fields out toward the rest of the archipelago. Fun fact: the rightmost island in the photo below is Surtsey, which just sprang out of the ocean about 50 years ago in this very volcanically volatile location.


15 then is a coastal drivable par 4 with a green tight to the sea and featuring more of the most beautiful views from any golf course in the world.


Vestmannaeyjar is simply one of my favorite days of golf I’ve ever had. You take a day trip on a ferry, to a charming island, to play a host of truly excellent holes, at what might be the most naturally beautiful location for a golf course in the world, and in one of the most geologically remarkable spots a person can visit. If that sounds at all up your alley, and assuming you don’t mind an occasional walkback, greens stimping around 8, and the potential for some genuinely hostile weather or an earthquake or who knows what else, it’s well worth the effort to get there. I’m sure glad I did it.

[Adam Lawrence]

I'm going to Iceland in a couple of weeks. Tony Ristola, sometimes of this parish, is currently extending Brautarholt to eighteen holes and I'm going to see the work.

I've been once before, when Steve Smyers was planning the Black Sand links on the south coast, which eventually didn't happen because of the crash of 2008. Really looking forward to revisiting.

[Jason Thurman]

Adam, stay tuned the next couple days as I have some shots coming when I get a chance that might whet your appetite even further...

[Thomas Dai]

Nice post. Fascinating country to visit (even without golf).

Atb

[Tom_Doak]

I was only in Iceland for a couple of days, with my wife, but in addition to Brautarholt and on the way to Gullfoss [must see destination] we detoured to see Kidjaberg, which I had spied on Google Earth.  It overlooks the White River, and there was far more interest and elevation change than I expected.  I hope someone else goes there to confirm that I'm not crazy in thinking it was worth the trip.

[Marty Bonnar]

Of all the - many, many - reasons to visit Iceland, golf is about 738th on the list.

[Robin_Hiseman]

You Tube golfer Zac Radford has just published a series on golf in Iceland. Here is his short film on Westman Island GC. Looks enticing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcL2kH9VbMc

[Ben Stephens]

I'm going to Iceland in a couple of weeks. Tony Ristola, sometimes of this parish, is currently extending Brautarholt to eighteen holes and I'm going to see the work.

I've been once before, when Steve Smyers was planning the Black Sand links on the south coast, which eventually didn't happen because of the crash of 2008. Really looking forward to revisiting.

Played Brautarholt a few years ago for the EIGCA Annual Meeting we played midnight golf and it was amazing experience, The 12 hole course was designed by Edwin Roald who has designed a number of golf courses in Iceland and was a wonderful host.


I drove the 3rd green which is a scary hole and hit two drivers to about 4 feet on the par 5 ninth - I missed the damn putt and Edwin admitted he has never seen an eagle on that hole - its an amazing site and some very interesting holes.


Wondering what the new 6 holes will be like - Edwin was disappointed he could not finish off the course as 18 holes. Tony Ristola has done a blog on the 6 new holes - the last one was in Nov 2023 - the holes look really interesting the site is awesome.


https://brautarholtblog.wordpress.com/


Would go back to Iceland again and they have the most number of courses per person population wise 

[Tony Ristola]

The first 6 at Vestmann Islands GC are the best on the course, and you see them driving to the property. I’m pretty sure the contours are the product of covering lava forms with dirt. You see the difference on the new holes as there is more exposed jagged lava. If they would cover these with dirt, the new holes would resemble the links feel of the first 6.


The par-3 over water near the Elephant Rock is interesting. The flag on that green can blow in one direction, with another flag about 50-meters away blowing in the opposite direction.


10% of the population plays golf. Drop this fact on most golfers, and they’re shocked.

[Ben Stephens]

The first 6 at Vestmann Islands GC are the best on the course, and you see them driving to the property. I’m pretty sure the contours are the product of covering lava forms with dirt. You see the difference on the new holes as there is more exposed jagged lava. If they would cover these with dirt, the new holes would resemble the links feel of the first 6.


The par-3 over water near the Elephant Rock is interesting. The flag on that green can blow in one direction, with another flag about 50-meters away blowing in the opposite direction.


10% of the population plays golf. Drop this fact on most golfers, and they’re shocked.

Hi Tony,


Would be interesting to see the latest photos on your project at Brautarholt as the last blog was Nov 2023.


Golf is the 2nd most popular sport in Iceland according to the Icelandic Golf Union and I can imagine there will be an increase in indoor golf with trackman/toptracers in future.


There are so many stunning places for golf courses on the island and its amazing that grass can grow there.


Cheers
Ben


 

[Tommy Williamsen]

Of all the - many, many - reasons to visit Iceland, golf is about 738th on the list.

In the summer, the days are so long that taking a few hours to play does not disrupt any sightseeing adventures unless you are in a bus group, which is a fate worse than death.

[Jeff Schley]

After I went to Iceland, I thought it would be a matter of time until the "secret" got out to Americans, particularly on the East Coast. I believe it is less time to fly from NY to Reykavik then to the west coast (SF/LA).  I don't know the airfares, but Iceland would be a wonderful vacation for a family to be out in nature. Such a unique landscape, unlike anywhere else in the US.

I recall they did quite a bit of marketing maybe 10 years ago or so with cheap flights to Iceland to try and get some Americans to go there as opposed to the UK. Once there it is quite expensive, but wow what a wonderful experience. Golf, I have no idea, but I'm sure it would also be a memorable round. As you can read here, those who have gone love it.

[Ben Sims]

The airline that carried the most passengers in 2023 just announced their first airline partnership with…Icelandair. Maybe I need to go check it out. 

[Jason Thurman]

Vestmannaeyjar is an adventure to reach and while I’d lobby anyone to make the effort, it won’t fit into just any trip. Brautarholt however, at least in current form, is a no-brainer to tack onto any golfer’s Iceland itinerary. The 40 minute drive from Reykjavik is the shortest drive you’ll make in your time on the island (other than the one from the airport to the Blue Lagoon). And, at 12 holes in its current form, you can tee off at 22:00 on a Friday evening and have plenty of time to nightcap on Rainbow Street before closing time afterward.

Designed originally by GCA contributor and native Icelander Edwin Roald, the course will expand to 18 holes in the next year if grow-in continues progressing well on the new 6 from Tony Ristola. I’ll be posting a few holes at a time on this tour, in hopes that you’ll find plenty to discuss.

We’ll start with the existing holes 1-12. It’s not totally clear what the routing will be once the new 6 holes open, but at least for now, I would argue Brautarholt features Golf’s Most Dramatic Opening Hole. Imminently reachable, this short par 5 is also fraught with as much peril as just about any hole I’ve ever seen - cliffs, native grasses with scattered small wetland areas, black sand bunkers, and a general shortage of short grass all conspire to make this opener play much harder than the yardage might initially suggest.



The prudent tee shot, for most, will need to be played short of the bunkers with perhaps something less than driver. The decisions get difficult from there. The layup target isn’t especially large, and if you’re fresh from an overnight flight like I was, you might not be in shape to trust your short irons as much as you normally would. Firing for the green brings the cliff into play, but the contours around the putting surface at Brautarholt are consistently sporty and bold. In this particular case, they’ll funnel a ball hit a little left down onto the green quite nicely.

For all its world-class scenery and gambling interest, the first hole may ultimately be a little too over-the-top. For the average player, the hole offers a theoretical birdie chance with a lot of potential for dream-squashing.

Once you finish, you’ll make a tough hike of about 300 yards up the hill behind the green - but Iceland is no place to complain about a tough walk, and the reward awaiting at the top of the climb is a sustained stretch of superb golf holes.



2 features a beautiful clifftop view of the Atlantic, but the more relevant water for players is a small wetland at the Green's front right. Brautarholt features a lot of these puddles, and this one adds some sneaky risk to a shortish par 3 played to a green with plenty of character. Obscured by the knoll that encroaches from the left, a runoff area offers bailout space away from the pond but punishes the player who finds it with dicey lies and a green that mostly runs away aggressively.



A short par 4, the 3rd belongs in the conversation of the world's most attractive holes (the photo below is a poor capture), even if plenty of rational golfers may find other holes on this very course more beautiful.



Drivable for huge hitters or with huge helping winds, most will play it as a drive-and-pitch. The player who brings the cliff into play by aiming online with the green can have a great look at the target from short grass for a relatively simple chance at birdie. Bailing left leaves a dicey blind pitch from gnarly native, including a few more puddle hazards in play for balls hit well offline. Continuing a theme, the green sits beautifully on the ground with plenty of contour and magnificent views.



An excellent collection of short par 4s continues with Brautarholt’s 4th hole. Three simple factors elevate this one: the encroachment of the cliffside into the right portion of the landing area, a narrow green wrapped around a deep bunker and opening on a diagonal from front right to back left, and lovely views across the water to Reykjavik.





Perhaps Brautarholt's best, the 5th is another short par 4 with a typo on the scorecard and on-course placard that suggests it's a par 3. This despite its 250 yards, windy locale,  enormous and roiling green, and rocky black beach lining the right side. It must be the Atlantic Ocean’s closest approximation of Cypress Point’s 16th, albeit with a much more audacious green and an offhand chance of spotting an arctic fox hunting among the rocks.



We turn inland and back toward the clubhouse at the 6th, a funky par 4 with a decision off the tee. A player can lay back short of the crossing stream and hit to a wide target that leaves a very long approach, or carry the stream and try to find the short grass to leave a much easier approach to this attractively set skyline green guarded by three black sand bunkers.





More to come…

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