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Charles Lund

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Lofoten Links Trip
« on: June 02, 2024, 08:38:02 AM »



I was active in posting here a few years ago and golf travel became a lower priority.  Since 2007, I've done many international trips.  The trip I am on now is my 59th and about 75 percent have have had golf as a good part of the trip.


I'd read of Lofoten Links and never seriously considered traveling here. I've been to most major European and Scandinavian cities but hadn't been to Helsinki.  I found a good frequent flyer redemption to and from Helsinki about 9 months ago with the return flight three weeks later.  Not wanting to spend three weeks in Helsinki, I looked at options for spending time on the trip.  Finnair flies from Helsinki to Tromso in Norway and there were also redemption flights available.


So the availability of minimal cost for airfare and an abundance of miles to liquidate created good tail winds.  The fact that my paternal grandparents migrated from the north of Norway made the flights and ten day road trip a perfect storm.


I stayed in the Helsinki area about five nights and did a one night stay and play with two rounds at Linna Golf Club about an hour north of Helsinki. I have another stay and play at Kytaja next week.


On May 30th, I flew from Helsinki to Tromso on an early flight and arrived at 8:00 a.m..  I had a pleasant four hour drive to Narvik and spent the night, encountering 24 hours of daylight for the first time.  The following morning I drove from Narvik to Lofoten Links, another pleasant drive of about four hours. 


I played 18 holes on the afternoon of my arrival and checked in to my room at Lofoten Lodges.  The next day I waited until 10:00 p.m. and tried midnight golf.  The darker light conditions made for better photography with my phone camera.


The following link shows a photo album of the course and surroundings:


https://photos.app.goo.gl/LgWJTveDzTo9V3tr9


Here are a few comments:


1. The development of the course reflects an ambitious project accomplished to date in steps to provide golf in this area, which has adverse climate conditions.
2.  It's a rocky, coastal site with mountains rising next to the sea and a lot of noxious vegetation and troublesome slopes and terrain. 
3.  The massive boulders add aesthetic value to the playing experience.
4.  The areas for hole construction seem well selected although there are many long green to tee walks.
5.  There are a range of tee alternatives, with back tees offering no clarity of what the landing area involves.  Regardless of tees, there is substantial run out and severe slopes which move balls far away from intended line of play.
6.  The green locations, greenside bunkering, and mounding seemed well suited to how the course played for me from the tees I played from.
7.  There was work in progress such as sanded fairways and aerfied and sanded greens which will improve appearance and playability as the seasons transition to summer.
8.  Planet Golf type photos create an unrealistic notion of the actual beauty found here.
9.  The cleanup in progress to soften the arbitrary and penal quality of the course will make it fun and more playable.
10.  Clubhouse infrastructure is minimalistic.  Staff are friendly, welcoming, and charming.
11.  Onsite lodging is quite nice.  My room had private ensuite bathroom with shower, wifi, TV, and two twin beds.  Common area had moddrn kitchen and nice living room.  Each room had individual lock and key.  I shared lodge with couple from Oslo and couple from Michugan.
12.  Breakfast was included at Laven, the restaurant associated with facility.  Dinner was excellent.  Halibut and other fish are integral to Norwegian cuisine.


The countryside around here is a bit reminiscent of County Donegal in Ireland and the Inishowen Peninsula in particular.  It's probably not fair to offer a comparison beyond the look of the lowland area here.


I have another prepaid round and will buy a few used Top Flite/Pinnacle type balls for about $1 USD each.  There is some good hiking in the area and I will take advantage of it.


My five night, three round package was affordable and booking conditions had a realistic prepayment arrangement with deferral of final payment until 30 days prior to booking.


From here it is a two plus hour drive to Moskenes and a four hour ferry to Bodo.  My grandmother was from the Bodo area and  worked as a cook at a mine near Fauske and met my grandfather there.  They migrated to North America around 1910.  From therr I drive back to Narvik for a night and two nights in Tromso, then a flight to Helsinki for a few days, then home.


I'm glad I made the trip, subject to the considerations that made it more feasible.


Charles Lund





« Last Edit: June 07, 2024, 12:54:33 PM by Charles Lund »

Pete Lavallee

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2024, 10:29:10 AM »
Thanks for the detailed report. Just curious, how many golfers were on the course on the days you played?
"...one inoculated with the virus must swing a golf-club or perish."  Robert Hunter

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2024, 11:22:04 AM »
Thanks for the detailed report. Just curious, how many golfers were on the course on the days you played?


There are _a lot_ of tourists in Lofoten during the summer. Can't tell from this distance how many of them are golfers, but the area is very busy during the season. Quite astoundingly a fair proportion of them are Germans in camper vans (from Hamburg, for example, the golf course is 2,203km, or 1,368 miles, and Google Maps estimates the journey would take thirty hours, including a ferry across the Skagerrak. Pretty hardcore, these Germans  :) ).
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Charles Lund

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2024, 12:36:48 PM »
Pete,


Play was very light the rwo days I played.  I l never waited as a single and let a two ball through so I could take photos.  Went out abour 14:30.  Next day went out at 22:00 as single.  One group went out just before me and never saw them again  Took photos with phone camera and lighting was good.   Finished at 02:00.


Charles

David_Tepper

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2024, 12:47:04 PM »
Charles -

Greetings from Dornoch! Glad to see you are back out on the road. Thanks for the report.

Having journeyed to Durness last weekend, I think Lofoten may be a course too far.

DT

Tommy Williamsen

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2024, 01:16:24 PM »
I flew into Svolvaer, which is a good place to stay for Lofoten. If you go, do more than play golf. It might be the most stunningly beautiful place on earth, with little villages dotting the coastline. We were there a week and could have remained longer.


[color=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.87)][/color]
Where there is no love, put love; there you will find love.
St. John of the Cross

"Deep within your soul-space is a magnificent cathedral where you are sweet beyond telling." Rumi

Charles Lund

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2024, 02:14:40 PM »

"Charles -

Greetings from Dornoch! Glad to see you are back out on the road. Thanks for the report.

Having journeyed to Durness last weekend, I think Lofoten may be a course too far."

Dave,


I had a lot of liquidity with my Alaska Air Miles and Finnair got me to Helsinki with quite a bit of comfort.  They also flew to Tromso.  I played two rounds outside of Helsinki and have times on both courses of another club on the way back.  I'm not trying to track down any long losr relatives but I'm realizing what a hardy group of people lived here in the late 1800s and earlier centuries.

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2024, 03:18:08 PM »
The other thing to note is that you can accommodate quite a lot of play when you have 24 hour daylight :)
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Thomas Dai

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2024, 04:11:26 PM »
There’s at least one more course on the Lofotens. It’s at Bleik which is about 100 miles further north than LL. I wonder if there are any others on this chain of islands?
Atb

Adam Lawrence

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2024, 04:24:12 PM »
There’s at least one more course on the Lofotens. It’s at Bleik which is about 100 miles further north than LL. I wonder if there are any others on this chain of islands?
Atb


There's a course at Bodo, not in the archipelago, but quite close, that was designed by our own Rob Hiseman.
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Andy Shulman

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2024, 12:12:02 AM »
I was there last summer and also played Bleik during my trip. You can read about it and eee a few photos athttps://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,72247.msg1736199.html#msg1736199. Both were fun experiences, but there's really no comparison between the two courses. Lofoten Links is Top 100 list golf and has the design and maintenance chops to back it up. As you've pointed out, Charles, there's a tremendous emphasis on simply keeping the ball in play. It took me a while to fully appreciate that, at which point I put away the (rented) driver and played much better teeing off with a hybrid.


I wouldn't (and didn't) make a separate trip just to play Lofoten Links, but it's absolutely worth a visit if you're anywhere on the Loftoten archipelago or the neighboring Vesterælen region.

Thomas Dai

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2024, 05:00:22 AM »
There’s at least one more course on the Lofotens. It’s at Bleik which is about 100 miles further north than LL. I wonder if there are any others on this chain of islands?
Atb
There's a course at Bodo, not in the archipelago, but quite close, that was designed by our own Rob Hiseman.
Yes, and RH has a nice course Opening Day story too. :)
Atb


Paul Jones

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2024, 09:31:21 AM »
Lofoten Links is on my short list, but just looked up flights from New Orleans... 34+ hours to get to Evenes, then the drive to Lofoten.


If I make that trip, will have to break up the travel and spend a few nights in Frankfurt or Paris.
Paul Jones
pauljones@live.com

Tommy Williamsen

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2024, 10:03:04 AM »
Lofoten Links is on my short list, but just looked up flights from New Orleans... 34+ hours to get to Evenes, then the drive to Lofoten.


If I make that trip, will have to break up the travel and spend a few nights in Frankfurt or Paris.


Other parts of Norway are worth a few days before your trip north.

]
« Last Edit: June 07, 2024, 10:04:42 AM by Tommy Williamsen »
Where there is no love, put love; there you will find love.
St. John of the Cross

"Deep within your soul-space is a magnificent cathedral where you are sweet beyond telling." Rumi

Charles Lund

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2024, 01:53:28 PM »
I finished up my time at Lofoten Links on Wednesday. I actually witnessed a significant change in the color of fairways and greens as newer and deeoer shades of green emerged.  I probably was here a couple of weeks early.


For an in and out trip, Evenes is the closest airport and that leaves you with a three hour drive.


Agree with Tommy about the beauty of the unique character of this fjordland seacoast where mountains rise from fjord inlets. 


I've done a  five week road trip to Spain and Portugal, several three to five week trips to Ireland, and one six week trip to Australia.  I found the driving in Norway ro be about as tiring and difficult as driving anywhere.  The seemingly constant changes in speed limits, much slower limits relative to road type, and ever present speed cameras require a level of attention that is tiring.


Half of my family heritage is Norwegian and I was able to find a house that was still standing where my grandmother lived before she went to work as a cook in a large mine.  She and my grandfather immigrated to North America around 1910. 


So there was a personal aspect of the trip and seeing an area of Norway where they lived helped me understand some aspects of how they ended up where they did.


There's a lot of beauty here and Lofoten Links provides a good example of how golf courses that fit surroundings and follow design principles can be enjoyable and architecturally interesting.  In late 2008, I retired and did a trip that included Barnbougle Dunes, which seemed about as remote as possible.  On various trips to New Zealand I visited Kaitaia and Oreti Sands.


Lofoten Links is easily the most remote setting I've been in for golf.


I've done 21 trips that included time in Australia and 14 trips that included at least two weeks in Ireland.


This is definitely a one and done.


Charles Lund
« Last Edit: June 07, 2024, 02:54:47 PM by Charles Lund »

Adam Lawrence

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Re: Lofoten Links Trip New
« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2024, 02:24:43 PM »
I finished up my time at Lofoten Links on Wednesday. I actually witnessed a significant change in the color of fairways and greens as newer and deeoer shades of green emerged.  I probably was here a couple of weeks early.

For an in and out trip, Evenes is the closest airport and that leaves you with a three hour drive.


The nearest airport is actually Svolvaer, but that has a short runway that can only take prop planes, and for most of the year you have to change in Bodo to get there from Oslo. There are some nonstop flights in summer, but I suspect it's quite a long flight to take in a small prop plane. There is car rental at Svolvaer, and I flew in there last time I went to the golf course. It's pretty convenient but if and when I go again I will probably stick with Evenes.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2024, 04:16:22 PM by Adam Lawrence »
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

Charles Lund

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Lofoten Links Trip
« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2024, 03:08:42 PM »
I did look at the Svolvaer flights before I wrote my latest entry and saw the flights there come from and go to Bodo.


I spent a night in Bodo and liked it.  It had a nice waterfront area and.a modern mall.  There was a modern feel to the area.


Svolvaer is about 45 minutes or less from Lofoten Links.


One thing I would mention is that there are tradeoffs with different routes.  I stayed overnight in Narvik on my way from Tromso and back to Tromso. 


The lodges at Lofoten Links are comfortable and Lodge 1 had three sleeping quarters suitable for two persons each with ensuite bathroom and shared kitchen.  Svolvaer had a waterfront area with multiple restaurants.


I realize this is a Golf Architecture discussion group but having some archival information would be helpful for those who self organize.


Charles Lund