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Sean_A

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Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD New
« on: October 16, 2023, 11:46:20 AM »
 

2008 aerial.


Like all the ancient Scottish golfing grounds, much has changed at Musselburgh. The only difference being Musselburgh is perhaps the oldest of them all. The links are so old the revered ground is now often called Musselburgh Old. It is known that golf was played on this ground from at least 2 March 1672. On this date Sir John Fowles recorded in his account book “Lost at golfe at Musselburgh….” The first club formed in the area was Royal Musselburgh GC in 1774 when the course consisted of 7 holes. It took 100 years for the members to decide it best to stop meeting in pubs! A house was finally built in 1873. Over time many other clubs would sprout up or move their operations to Musselburgh. These clubs included Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers which was the first to do so and the most important. Edinburgh Burgess (later Royal Burgess) & Bruntsfield Links Golfing Society made up the remainder of the main four clubs. It is doubtful there will ever be a gathering of such powerful and prestigious clubs playing over one course at the same time ever again.

 

Due to overcrowding on Leith Links, the Honourable Company made the inevitable move to Musselburgh in 1836 which by now consisted of 8 holes. For many years the members had been playing often at Musselburgh and even continued to play the West Links at North Berwick. Matters were properly settled when a clubhouse was built in 1865 at what is now 6 Balcarres Road; formerly known as Links Place. I believe the building is now a children’s nursery. It was while at this location that the Honourable Company co-sponsored six Opens between 1874 and 1889 over what had become a 9-hole course. Five Musselburgh based Open winners are commemorated in stone on the outside of Musselburgh Old Course GC house (formerly the home of Edinburgh Burgess). Three of these men lifted the Claret Jug at Musselburgh. When the Honourable Company decamped for Muirfield in 1891 this ended Musselburgh as a green for future Opens. After some shenanigans, New Club Musselburgh would purchase the Honourable Company premises shortly thereafter. The New and Burgess merged and moved to a new 1895 Old Tom Morris design at Barnton, on the western edge of Edinburgh. 

A strange form of the game to say the least.
 

Playing through and around a horse racecourse on a busy road with no views of the sea; Musselburgh doesn’t have the immediate appeal of most links. Long gone are the magnificent bunkers, town and sea views which were prevalent in the late 19th century. A leisure park and other recreational amenities built on reclaimed land now command the seafront. New builds block views toward High St. The Council is the custodian of the links and must juggle the interests of the racecourse and golf course. Sometimes it seems as though the racecourse is the priority. There are maybe five greens remaining from the course which last hosted the Open; 1, 2 & 4-6.

A map of the proposed extension.


In a desperate move to remain on the Open rota, there were plans floated to extend the course to 18 holes using land adjacent either side of Musselburgh. After more than ten years of discussions, the matter was dropped by the Council.  What followed was an 80-year period of decline. The course was a mere after thought and by the 1970s was on its last legs. Matters picked up greatly with the founding of the Musselburgh Old Course GC in 1982. Despite the expansion of the racecourse and related buildings which necessitated course changes, the links seem to be thriving. Golfers have rediscovered the charms of Musselburgh. Being included in Scotland’s Golf Coast marketing, the sometimes subject of social media and offering hickories for rent have no doubt helped reinvigorate the appeal of the links.

I hadn't been to Musselburgh in at least a few decades. First thing I noticed was the entrance was changed and the old starter shack was gone. A large modern building where a ticket can be purchased is now in place. I also noticed the first hole was much longer than previously. The tee hangs immediately outside the new building and the race course. Nevermind the hickories, this par 3 is about 240 yards...a driver for me...the somewhat modern type. The tee inside the rails which I previously played is now used in winter.




Playing along the straight and grandstand, 2 and 3 are short 4s. They aren't great holes, but I like them. The sunken 2nd green.




The 3rd green is also somewhat below the fairway level. Off the tee there is a large bank of whins down the left which is problematic.




More to follow.

Ciao
« Last Edit: March 13, 2024, 03:19:51 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

MCirba

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2023, 12:34:44 PM »
Sean,


I'm greatly enjoying this already.   Thanks!
"Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent" - Calvin Coolidge

https://cobbscreek.org/

Thomas Dai

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2023, 01:12:46 PM »
Looking forward to the rest of this. A nice reminder of a visit I undertook earlier in the year.
By the way, I believe that one of the five faces on the wall isn’t actually who the words inscribed say it is.
Atb

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2023, 05:12:17 PM »
Musselburgh is a great place, and an important place.  I've taken a couple of my interns there for the first stop on their tour of Scotland.  Only a few years ago the fate of the whole place was hanging by a thread, but thankfully the weight of history saved the course from redevelopment.

Michael Whitaker

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2023, 07:51:27 PM »
Sean - Musselburgh far exceeded my expectations. I’m so glad we decided to visit. Looking forward to the remainder of your report… and, hopefully, a return next summer.
"Solving the paradox of proportionality is the heart of golf architecture."  - Tom Doak (11/20/05)

Cal Seifert

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2023, 09:06:57 PM »
I am really glad I made the effort to get over to Musselburgh from Edinburgh last summer. It was my first experience with real links golf overseas and a great appetizer for what was to come.

Mark Pearce

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2023, 05:34:30 AM »
I played it in September with hickories (one of my playing companions made back to back birdies on 4 and 5 with hickories....) and really enjoyed it.  Better than I had expected.
In June I will be riding the first three stages of this year's Tour de France route for charity.  630km (394 miles) in three days, with 7800m (25,600 feet) of climbing for the William Wates Memorial Trust (https://rideleloop.org/the-charity/) which supports underprivileged young people.

Adrian_Stiff

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2023, 05:47:28 AM »
Sean - Musselburgh far exceeded my expectations. I’m so glad we decided to visit. Looking forward to the remainder of your report… and, hopefully, a return next summer.
Far exceeded my expectations too. Absolute must add on for anyone in the area with a spare 2 hours.
A combination of whats good for golf and good for turf.
The Players Club, Cumberwell Park, The Kendleshire, Oake Manor, Dainton Park, Forest Hills, Erlestoke, St Cleres.
www.theplayersgolfclub.com

Sean_A

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-3 New
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2023, 01:08:10 PM »
Musselburgh Tour Cont

Whitty

You and Wardo were the first guys I could drag to Musselburgh....thanks for indulging me! I have been trying for several years to get folks to go without luck. I did some looking into annual links ticket cost...£130 for a senior!

Willie Park


Mrs Formans may be closed, but the pub is forever etched into the lore of golf. In the 19th century it was common for the best players to be pitted against each other in big money matches with the gentry acting as backers. In the spring of 1870 one such match between Willie Park and Old Tom Morris was well underway with the first three legs already being completed. The final match was held at Musselburgh with Willie Park 2up after playing Mrs Forman's (then the 3rd hole, now the 4th after the opening par 3 became the 1st). During refreshments, the referee, Robert Chambers, decided to postpone the match a day in the hope of better controlling an unruly crowd. Willie Park would have none of it and finished the round thereby declaring victory. Old Tom Morris turned up the next day as instructed with Mr Park nowhere to be found. Old Tom holed out the six remaining holes and he was declared the winner by Mr Chambers. After six months of wrangling the match was declared null and void.  The two didn't meet in a big singles match again until 1882 when well past their prime.

Mrs Formans is a formidable two-shotter. The fairway carries straight over the racecourse as it bends to the right. Into the wind from the 431 yard tees I didn't make the carry over the track. With the green tucked behind more rails, most will not try for the green from this position. It’s a shame the name Mrs Formans no longer adorns the wall of the rear white building. The last time I was there it was still possible to get a pint. Some years ago the building was converted to housing.


The large, undulating and unusually shaped green is raised above the fairway. Many will disagree, but I think the 4th is an All-Scotland candidate.




An old photo of the green.


The Cradle of Golf gate.


The scene as depicted by Harry Rountree.


We remain outside the racecourse for Sea (#5), another longish short hole.  Again, it doesn't look up to much, yet this is a fine hole.


The hole is located in a cool pocket of the green well protected by the left bunker.


More to follow.

Ciao
« Last Edit: August 12, 2024, 02:19:04 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Adam Lawrence

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-5
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2023, 01:58:07 PM »
Cue Vaughn Halyard...
Adam Lawrence

Editor, Golf Course Architecture
www.golfcoursearchitecture.net

Principal, Oxford Golf Consulting
www.oxfordgolfconsulting.com

Author, 'More Enduring Than Brass: a biography of Harry Colt' (forthcoming).

Short words are best, and the old words, when short, are the best of all.

John Mayhugh

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-5
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2023, 03:09:00 PM »
Great tour so far.

The racetrack rails on the 4th are etched in memory for an obvious reason. What a hole.

Thomas Dai

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-5
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2023, 03:15:54 PM »
Can’t comment on the old 4th green, super photo and painting so thanks for posting, but the current 4th green is a cracker.
I’d second/third comments that if near Edinburgh folks should try to find the opportunity to play Musselburgh Old. Fine and historic golf but more than that, a special experience.

Atb

Brian Finn

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD COURSE:1-5
« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2023, 03:58:10 PM »
During our 2019 trip to East Lothian, I scheduled Musselburgh Old for our first round, on day of arrival, and it worked out perfectly.  Everyone in our group enjoyed the experience, and appreciated the historical significance of the place. Additionally, it was great to stretch out and play some golf the first day, but nine holes proved to be plenty, with several 36 hole days ahead of us.  We did not play hickories there (although a couple of us do, with varying frequency), but it is pretty cool that they offer that option.  The course was plenty challenging.  The 4th was definitely the standout, both for the golf hole itself, and the history surrounding it.
New for '24: Monifieth x2, Montrose x2, Panmure, Carnoustie x3, Scotscraig, Kingsbarns, Elie, Dumbarnie, Lundin, Belvedere, The Loop x2, Forest Dunes, Arcadia Bluffs x2, Kapalua Plantation, Windsong Farm, Minikahda...

Emil Weber

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2023, 03:50:56 AM »

Thank you Sean for the tour and also for illuminating the history of the place, which I didn't know too many details about!I love Musselburgh and have made it a habit to play it on the first and/or last days of my trips to Scotland. It's become a bit of a home course for me over there.
I resonate with your judgements - there are some outstanding holes/shots (like the approach to 4) and all 9 are at least fine holes with something interesting going on on all of them. It's everything links golf needs to be at the core.

Mark Pearce

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2023, 04:36:59 AM »
I'd just like to repeat that Brian Walshe, formerly of this parish, made 3-2 at 4 and 5, playing with hired hickories.  Some golf, that......
In June I will be riding the first three stages of this year's Tour de France route for charity.  630km (394 miles) in three days, with 7800m (25,600 feet) of climbing for the William Wates Memorial Trust (https://rideleloop.org/the-charity/) which supports underprivileged young people.

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2023, 04:51:18 AM »
I'd just like to repeat that Brian Walshe, formerly of this parish, made 3-2 at 4 and 5, playing with hired hickories.  Some golf, that......

Was that before or after breaking a few sticks?

Ciao
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Mark Pearce

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2023, 05:09:50 AM »
Sticks were broken on the first!
In June I will be riding the first three stages of this year's Tour de France route for charity.  630km (394 miles) in three days, with 7800m (25,600 feet) of climbing for the William Wates Memorial Trust (https://rideleloop.org/the-charity/) which supports underprivileged young people.

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2023, 05:18:40 AM »
Sticks were broken on the first!

Thats convenient!

Ciao
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Kevin Pallier

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2023, 06:57:19 AM »
A golfing pilgrimage to Scotland IMO is not complete without a visit to the Open rota trio of St Andrews, Prestwick and Musselburgh.


60 Open's and plenty of golfing history between them.


Thanks for the memories Sean even though its been decades since I was there as well I still remember those you've posted so far.



 

Sean_A

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-5
« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2023, 08:34:20 AM »
Thanks all!

Musselburgh Old Tour Cont

The 6th is a well known hole due to the NLE feature Pandy Bunker...Pandy being a euphemism for pandemonium. There is a large pit in the fairway which strikes me as an extremely good drive to reach with hickories. A 1945 aerial suggests perhaps there was a bunker closer to the tee.


A 2009 aerial shows the empty pit. It could be that this bunker was immense in the early days and stretched back much closer to the tee. Or perhaps the bunker was between the whins and the two fairway bunkers.


Preparation for race day continues as golfers make their way around the course. Musselburgh has one of the best uses for gorse of any course I know. People in charge of parkland courses should take note; its a great template for tree planting. 


Approach to the two-tier 6th green.


I am surprised this green wasn't combined with the 3rd. It would make for a striking double green.


More to follow.

Ciao
« Last Edit: October 19, 2023, 08:36:29 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Michael Moore

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-6
« Reply #20 on: October 20, 2023, 12:55:07 PM »
I stayed across the way at the excellent Arden House at the end of a two-week golf bender, so I just walked it. Surprisingly good, but not good enough to generate regrets, and a really fantastic racetrack vibe.
Metaphor is social and shares the table with the objects it intertwines and the attitudes it reconciles. Opinion, like the Michelin inspector, dines alone. - Adam Gopnik, The Table Comes First

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-6
« Reply #21 on: October 20, 2023, 09:36:27 PM »
The green at the sixth is reputed to be the first two-tiered green in the world.  I think Bernard Darwin labeled it such.  There are not many that have been built in the last 250 years that are more severe than that one, it's a doozy.

Marty Bonnar

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Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-6
« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2023, 09:42:30 AM »
“In Pandy, play two more” shows a fence in the foreground very close to the side of the bunker. Could be the boundary with the racecourse. Might also just be artistic licence, of course!

The White River runs dark through the heart of the Town,
Washed the people coal-black from the hole in the ground.

Sean_A

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD:1-6 New
« Reply #23 on: October 26, 2023, 03:14:55 PM »
Musselburgh Old Tour Cont

A par five, the 7th requires an annoying walk back to the tee. The drive is played into a fairway tightly protected by sand. If the tee shot isn't up, carrying a large centre line bunker for the second shot can be problematic. I did recall the green falls away from front right and that its often best to be on the left for the approach...just about where a bunker is placed. The hole is visually dull, but not at all so in the playing. Below is a perfect angle of attack.


Behind the green.


The short holes are not so short. The 8th is another which called for a driver.  Similar to how the third feels like a continuation of the second, the same is so for seven and eight. Flat and seemingly featureless, the hole reveals itself once closer to the green. An odd hole because of the short turn of the dogleg, regardless, the green makes the 9th something special. The former Honourable Company house is in the background on the right.




Beautiful punchbowl green.




I have been in the Musselburgh Old Course house before, but this time it was closed. We hit the road for Anstruther with a bit of a thirst on.




I was exceedingly happy to stop by Musselburgh Old for a game. My memory didn't play tricks, the course is certainly as good as I recalled. Anytime a 9 hole course can boast of an All-Scotland hole it has to be something special and that Musselburgh Old certainly is. I hope not to wait another 20 years before seeing the course again. At the highly reasonable rates charged in these times of scandalous green fees I expect many golfers can’t afford not to play Musselburgh Old. 1* 2023

PS, special thanks to Josh Bills for sending me some aerials. He has been very kind to me over the years by sharing the flotsam and jetsom of golf.

Other East Lothian courses

Kilspindie
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,66109.0.html

Luffness New
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,66102.0.html

Dunbar
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,64305.0.html

North Berwick
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,59363.0.html

Gullane 3
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,67899.0.html

Gullane 2
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,71153.msg1711897.html#msg1711897

Gullane 1
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,70054.msg1738064.html#msg1738064

Renaissance
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,58937.0.html

Longniddry
https://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,72306.0.html

Ciao
« Last Edit: January 07, 2024, 10:17:11 AM by Sean_A »
New plays planned for 2024: Nothing

Marty Bonnar

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Monumental MUSSELBURGH OLD
« Reply #24 on: October 26, 2023, 04:36:51 PM »
Lovely jubbly.
IIRC, there was a GCA outing to MO maybe ten years ago. The FBD memory fails me as I can’t remember who was all there and I seem to have no photos to assist.
If you were one of the participants, firstly I apologise and secondly can you put your hand up and remind me. Maybe DMac? Maybe Carlton?
Help!
F.
The White River runs dark through the heart of the Town,
Washed the people coal-black from the hole in the ground.

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