2008 aerial.
Like all the ancient Scottish golfing grounds, much has changed at Musselburgh. The only difference being Musselburgh is perhaps the oldest of them all. The links are so old the revered ground is now often called Musselburgh Old. It is known that golf was played on this ground from at least 2 March 1672. On this date Sir John Fowles recorded in his account book “Lost at golfe at Musselburgh….” The first club formed in the area was Royal Musselburgh GC in 1774 when the course consisted of 7 holes. It took 100 years for the members to decide it best to stop meeting in pubs! A house was finally built in 1873. Over time many other clubs would sprout up or move their operations to Musselburgh. These clubs included Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers which was the first to do so and the most important. Edinburgh Burgess (later Royal Burgess) & Bruntsfield Links Golfing Society made up the remainder of the main four clubs. It is doubtful there will ever be a gathering of such powerful and prestigious clubs playing over one course at the same time ever again.
Due to overcrowding on Leith Links, the Honourable Company made the inevitable move to Musselburgh in 1836 which by now consisted of 8 holes. For many years the members had been playing often at Musselburgh and even continued to play the West Links at North Berwick. Matters were properly settled when a clubhouse was built in 1865 at what is now 6 Balcarres Road; formerly known as Links Place. I believe the building is now a children’s nursery. It was while at this location that the Honourable Company co-sponsored six Opens between 1874 and 1889 over what had become a 9-hole course. Five Musselburgh based Open winners are commemorated in stone on the outside of Musselburgh Old Course GC house (formerly the home of Edinburgh Burgess). Three of these men lifted the Claret Jug at Musselburgh. When the Honourable Company decamped for Muirfield in 1891 this ended Musselburgh as a green for future Opens. After some shenanigans, New Club Musselburgh would purchase the Honourable Company premises shortly thereafter. The New and Burgess merged and moved to a new 1895 Old Tom Morris design at Barnton, on the western edge of Edinburgh.
A strange form of the game to say the least.
Playing through and around a horse racecourse on a busy road with no views of the sea; Musselburgh doesn’t have the immediate appeal of most links. Long gone are the magnificent bunkers, town and sea views which were prevalent in the late 19
th century. A leisure park and other recreational amenities built on reclaimed land now command the seafront. New builds block views toward High St. The Council is the custodian of the links and must juggle the interests of the racecourse and golf course. Sometimes it seems as though the racecourse is the priority. There are maybe five greens remaining from the course which last hosted the Open; 1, 2 & 4-6.
A map of the proposed extension.
In a desperate move to remain on the Open rota, there were plans floated to extend the course to 18 holes using land adjacent either side of Musselburgh. After more than ten years of discussions, the matter was dropped by the Council. What followed was an 80-year period of decline. The course was a mere after thought and by the 1970s was on its last legs. Matters picked up greatly with the founding of the Musselburgh Old Course GC in 1982. Despite the expansion of the racecourse and related buildings which necessitated course changes, the links seem to be thriving. Golfers have rediscovered the charms of Musselburgh. Being included in Scotland’s Golf Coast marketing, the sometimes subject of social media and offering hickories for rent have no doubt helped reinvigorate the appeal of the links.
I hadn't been to Musselburgh in at least a few decades. First thing I noticed was the entrance was changed and the old starter shack was gone. A large modern building where a ticket can be purchased is now in place. I also noticed the first hole was much longer than previously. The tee hangs immediately outside the new building and the race course. Nevermind the hickories, this par 3 is about 240 yards...a driver for me...the somewhat modern type. The tee inside the rails which I previously played is now used in winter.
Playing along the straight and grandstand, 2 and 3 are short 4s. They aren't great holes, but I like them. The sunken 2nd green.
The 3rd green is also somewhat below the fairway level. Off the tee there is a large bank of whins down the left which is problematic.
More to follow.
Ciao