Michael -- you are, of course, perfectly at liberty to love Birkdale as much as you like. But your comparison to Woking and NZ is thoroughly screwy -- no-one is suggesting that either of those courses is the best in the UK, as many people will claim re. Birkdale.
Is Birkdale natural or is it the product of substantial earthmoving? At this distance that is almost impossible to answer, but the simple fact is that the course lacks the rumple that makes the greatest links great. That is why the pros love it, but it's also why those of us with a more refined sense of quality feel that it lacks. Sean is right about the 17th -- despite all the whining, it was the best green out there (I said this once to Martin Hawtree, who laughed). You're right about the first -- great hole. But it doesn't get any better.