The Scottish Highlands - A Golfing Tour

[Kevin Markham]

I'm heading over to Scotland and taking 3 weeks to drive the 'North Coast 500' route, which starts at Inverness, heads north to John O' Groats, then west across the most northerly part of the mainland, and then down the west coast as far as the Isle of Skye. I'll be playing all 23 golf courses along the way.


The 'big' courses include Royal Dornoch (I've been reading the GCA thread on that), Brora, Golspie, Tain and Skibo Castle, but I'll be playing the small 9-holers too. Castle Stuart and Nairn won't be on the route.


Just wondering if any GCA folks have accommodation recommendations (I'll probably be at the Royal Dornoch Hotel for a couple of nights) or sight-seeing suggestions?


Many thanks

[James Boon]

Kevin,


I know the area well as my parents live in Helmsdale and I've probably driven most of the route at one point or another, except the far western points (I especially want to drive down the pass to Applecross!)


Firstly, look up GCAer Jon Wigget who has his own course at Brahan near Dingwall!


I trust you have seen the website (there is an app also if you are smart phone savvy?)
http://www.northcoast500.com/home.aspx


As you've got 3 weeks, you should have plenty of time for the occasional detour, though I'm surprised to hear there are 23 courses on route? I need to pull my finger out!


I can't make many recommendations for accommodation I'm afraid, but a few ideas of what to do are as follows:
- Head out to the tip of Fortrose & Rosemarkie, if you are there at the right time (I think its an hour after high tide) you are likely to see dolphins while you stand on the beach. http://www.moraydolphins.co.uk/watch/chanonry-point.html#.Vhdwv_lViko
- Plenty of distilleries to drop into if you fancy a wee dram, but miss the big boys and go to Balblair as its less touristy and you could well be the only ones on a tour (a personal tour!) http://www.balblair.com/
- Head inland to Bonar Bridge GC. Its probably on your list already, but its not really on the main route so thought I'd point it out. http://www.bbagc.co.uk/
- The beaches at Dornoch, Brora and Golspie are all beautiful, but it might be worth heading to Littleferry just south of Golspie as its a great little spot.
- Dunrobin Castle is an obvious stop off, and dont miss the Broch just north of there. Its not as complete as a couple I've seen but still worth a look.
- The food at the Royal Marine Hotel is very good. http://www.royalmarinebrora.com/


I will post more later, but my internet connection is playing up this morning!    But basically look out for stunning views and scenery, look out for wildlife, look out for some amazing food from local produce and enjoy the golf!


Cheers,


James

[Ally Mcintosh]

Good man, Kevin.
 
Great sounding project you've lined yourself up with there. You taking the missus with you or is it all "work" and no play?
 
 

[Daniel Jones]

Sounds like a great adventure, Kevin! Be sure to hang a bag tag above the bar at the Royal Golf.

[Tom_Doak]

I didn't know the North Coast 500 was a thing.  Now I'm jealous.  I have never been on the northern or western legs [the only part of Scotland I've missed].  I bet my wife would be up for this trip one year.


Historical note:  though I have never been there, the town of Lochinver was where Alister MacKenzie's father grew up, and he used to take the family back every summer.  Apparently his time there had a lot to do with his love of the outdoors -- but there was no golf close by, so he didn't take it up until later in life.

[Niall C]

Kevin


The scenery north of Inverness is pleasant enough however once you get round to the north west corner it becomes stunning. Apart from a holiday as a toddler I hadn't been up that way until this year and I was blown away by the scenery. I only wish I had taken more time rather than trying to rush round in a few days. I assume you have your accommodation booked ? I'm told accommodation can get scarce up there although at this time of year I imagine it's a good bit quieter.


As others have said elsewhere be prepared to take your time while driving. It might be tagged Route 500 or whatever but in parts its a single lane track laid in lie of the land style ie. no cuttings or tunnels, just up and down and round about hills. Tom mention Lochinver which is a nice enough town/village in itself however the drive round the loop to get there is an adventure. If the weather is nice park up where you can and take a trek into the country. You never know what spectacular view is over the hill.


Niall

[David_Tepper]

Kevin -

Like James B., I have had the good fortune to spend a fair amount of time in Dornoch & the Highlands over the past 10-12 years. In fact, I have been meaning to do a "best of the (non-golfing) Highlands" write up for Ran to post under the "best of" tab.

Be aware that driving in the Highlands can be very slow going at times. It can easily take an hour or more to drive 40 miles.

In Dornoch, the food at the Royal Golf Hotel is quite good. Be sure to try the Cullen Skink risotto. Luigi is also very good, but they may only be serving dinner 2-3 nights a week at this time of year. The Sticky Toffee Pudding at the Sutherland House is excellent. Be sure to take a look inside the Dornoch Cathedral. The small History Links museum is worth a visit.

If you journey out to Portmahomack to play the 9-hole Tarbat course, the Tarbat Discovery Center is the best of the community museums I have seen in the Highlands.

http://www.tarbat-discovery.co.uk/

As James B. mentions, the Dunrobin Castle is the leading visitor attraction in the Highlands and well worth seeing. Do not miss the falconry show that takes place there twice daily!

http://www.dunrobincastle.co.uk/

On the north coast, the Castle of Mey, the personal residence of Queen Elizabeth's mother, is worth a visit.

http://www.castleofmey.org.uk/

On the northwest coast, the Kylesku Hotel serves excellent food (try the langoustines!) and is a good place to spend the night. There is a boat that sometimes takes passengers out on a cruise of the adjacent lochs that is a pleasant way to pass an hour or two. 

http://www.kyleskuhotel.co.uk/
 
If the weather is nice, the Inverewe botanical gardens are worth a visit.

http://www.gardens-scotland.co.uk/inverewe.html

I have played the 9-hole Gairloch course. If you do, beware of flying golf balls!

South of Gairloch, the Badchro Inn is a very pretty spot for lunch.

http://badachroinn.filmdesign.me.uk/

Have a great trip.

DT

[Ally Mcintosh]

For those who aren't aware, Kevin spent 18 months driving over Ireland in his camper van to play all 350 eighteen hole courses.... He's well used to dodgy roads....

[Andrew Simpson]

Lots of good information from the others and as I live in Wick feel free to contact me on anything or want some golfing company from Brora round to Reay.
Roughly in the direction you say the Inverness to Brora mainly about the golf apart from the sightseeng tours, and the detour to Bonar Bridge has a few nice scenic spots and was the main road before the Dornoch bridge which cut out 25 miles on my trip to Inverness. Fortrose is worth the visit to view the Dolphins and golf.
I'm surprised James never mentioned La Mirage for a fish supper!
The drive up the coast to John O Groats starts to get a bit more scenic but not as good as the West.
If looking for Hotels I'd recommend Mackays Hotel in Wick
 The Old Pulteney distillery in Wick is worth a visit as it was Whiskey of the year a couple of years ago [size=78%]http://www.oldpulteney.com/#[/size] 
While at Wick GC the beach too.
At John O Groats a short hike at Duncansby Head has nice views and sea stacks.
A short trip over to Orkney if you have time with great stone age sites.
Duncansby head, the most northerly point on the mainland.
Then Mey Castle as mentioned and the beach at Dunnet.
Ignore Thurso GC, just a goat track
After your golf at Reay the coast is littered with beach views and the scenery starts to become more interesting.
Smoo Caves before you reach Durness GC and there used to be a seafood van worth stopping for there.
After Durness heading down the coast the scenery is stunning.
The ceilidh place hotel in Ullapool worth a stop [/size][size=78%]http://www.theceilidhplace.com/[/size]
The NC500 mentiona Applecross, don't miss it and food at the Inn.
If you are nipping over to Skye I'd say its worth taking the ferry over to Mallaig and golf at Traigh GC a stunning walk to play golf.
That would lead you to Fort William, then up the Glen to try and get a peek of Nessie in the loch before Inverness.
Not quite the 500, maybe 750 but you have plenty of time.

[Andrew Simpson]

I should have asked, do you have any idea when you plan to do the trip?

[Kevin Markham]

Thanks for all the replies. A veritable feast of information. Some of the recommendations I knew... most I didn't. Not sure how much time I'll have for golf after all of that.


Ally, it's a solo trip... and no camper van on this occasion. I looked into hiring one when I got to Inverness, but it's £2,000 for the three weeks.


Andrew, it would be great to catch up for a game. I'm playing Brora on Sat 31st Oct (12pm) and then working my way up to Wick via Helmsdale and Lybster. Due to play Wick on Monday 2nd Nov around 9am (the club hasn't confirmed yet) and Reay at 10am on Wednesday 4th. I am playing Thurso... I want to play all of them. And besides, I can compare the goat track to a few of the donkey tracks we have here in Ireland.


Niall, yes, I am discovering how few places are open in the dark months. Highly frustrating but I don't require much, so I'll find something I'm sure.


Tom, Lochinver is now on the itinerary. Thanks for that. The North Coast 500 is a new tourist thing... it's supposed to be Scotland's answer to Route 66, but I suspect it's really a response to Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way. There's one lovely nest of great golf courses but there are plenty that aren't going to lure the links faithful.


James, David... excellent tips/suggestions, thank you. I'll try to get photos of the different places up on this thread.

[Phil McDade]

Kevin:


I'd second Andrew's recommendation for the 9 holes at Traigh -- stunning scenery, and a neat little course to boot. If you get down to Oban, Glencruitten might be worth a round as well -- an original and quite quirky James Braid design.


If you really want to get away from it, there is also a small local ferry service from Mallaig to the Knoydart Peninsula and the little coastal village of Inverie, home of a place that bills itself as the U.K.'s most remote mainland pub: http://www.theoldforge.co.uk/

[James Boon]

Kevin,
A couple of other sights to look out for:
- Duncansby Head stacks near John O'Groats
- Smoo Cave near Durness
Traigh is well worth a game (keep meaning to post my photos from April this year!), and a trip over to Skye (plenty of none golf stuff to see, eat and experience!) is worth it if you are that close but its not part of the North Coast 500 so maybe for another time.
Can you list the courses you will be playing, as I dont quite get up to your number if I pan around the map of the route?
Cheers,
James
ps Yes Andrew is right, La Mirage is decent fish and chips (but of course most of the time I'm having my mums cooking when in Helmsdale  )[size=78%], and Old Pultney (my second favourite after Balblair) is worth the tour as well.[/size]

[Kevin Markham]

Can you list the courses you will be playing, as I dont quite get up to your number if I pan around the map of the route?

Here you go, James. I actually have 24, including Bonar Bridge.


     Torvean
Fairways Golf Club
 (2 courses: Loch Ness New (18), Loch Ness Wee Monster (9))
Inverness
Fortrose & Rosemarkie
Alness
Invergordon
Tarbet
Tain
Royal Dornoch
 (2 courses)
Carnegie Club (Skibo Castle)
[Bonar Bridge]
Golspie
Brora
Helmsdale
Lybster
Wick
Thurso
Reay
Durness Golf Club
Ullapool (9 holes, 18 tees)
Gairloch (9 holes, 18 tees)
Strathpeffer Spa GC
 

[David_Tepper]

Kevin -

I have not played it, but I have heard good things about Muir of Ord, north of Inverness:

http://muirofordgolfclub.com/

And definitely swing by Jon Wiggett's course west of Dingwall:

http://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/brahan-golf-club-p985981

Also be aware that access to Skibo Castle is very limited.

DT

[Bill_McBride]

For those who aren't aware, Kevin spent 18 months driving over Ireland in his camper van to play all 350 eighteen hole courses.... He's well used to dodgy roads....

     There are many golfers who haven't played 350 courses in their lifetimes!   What a feat. 

[Kevin Markham]

Kevin -

I have not played it, but I have heard good things about Muir of Ord, north of Inverness:

http://muirofordgolfclub.com/

And definitely swing by Jon Wiggett's course west of Dingwall:

http://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/brahan-golf-club-p985981

Also be aware that access to Skibo Castle is very limited.

DT

I'm good with Skibo, thanks. A very welcoming response to my plans.
As for Muir of Ord, I had it on my list but the North 500 folks said it's not on the route. I'm hoping I can get around the courses on the north and west coast a touch faster than planned so I get to to Muir and then on to Jon's Dingwall course. The weather will have a lot to do with it, I'm sure!

[RJ_Daley]

There has got to be a book in this gentleman's future.  EPIC!

[Daniel Jones]

Kevin, you do realize that we will be expecting at least a few of your outstanding photos when you return?

[Ru Macdonald]

Kevin, hope to see you for part of the ride!

[Mike Policano]

Kevin,


Where will we be able to read about your trip?


Also, glad to see you are playing the Higlands in "late summer".


Cheers, Mike

[Thomas Dai]

Sounds a terrific venture. Please post photos. More details at - http://www.northcoast500.com/home.aspx
atb

[Andrew Simpson]

I hope he doesn't mind me say but Kevin set of from Ireland today and reaches Inverness on Friday the 23rd to start his tour.

[Ru Macdonald]

It's going to be great to follow. I'm going to try join him at Brora or Tain.

[Kevin Markham]

Apologies for taking so long to post here. I've tried a couple of times but I'm struggling to attach images. Not sure whether that's to do with my poor technology prowess (very likely)... or my stupidity (more likely).


The trip is going by so fast. Day 7 already and 10 courses under my belt. Two of them, sadly, weren't open for play. A huge downpour on Friday night meant Inverness and Torvean Golf Clubs were unplayable.


I have taken on board the advice offered on here - thanks again - but have failed in my attempt to see the dolphins out by Fortrose & Rosemarkie, and Dunrobin Castle is closed for the season (lady was quite unhelpful on the phone). Balblair Distillery, however, was exceptional. Visited it this morning - small tour (5 of us) and interesting and informative. Highly recommended, as is the whisky. Had good food and bad, and the friendliness of the welcome is completely genuine.


Royal Dornoch was/is amazing. Sorry I can't add the images, but if you look on my blog (cheers Mike P for giving me an opportunity to mention it) you'll see the kind of day I played in... and the beauty of the golf course.

I was expecting to be blown away by the design/layout, and I wasn't disappointed. A highlight amid all my golf course experiences. Had the pleasure of Ru MacDonald's company on the 2nd course until he had to run off for a secret rendez-vous... which he has now posted about on GCA.