In 1985 I flew to England to visit my college roomate, an expatriate American living in London. He had some time and even though he rarely played golf, suggested we spend some time touring through Scotland where we might play The Old Course.
We drove up through Liverpool, and then northeast towards Edinburgh, staying at B&B's along the way. One lovely summer evening about 75 degrees he suddenly stated, "it's so nice out I feel like playing golf. Let's stop at the next course we see". Sure enough, and even though I knew little of the course at that time, we pulled off the road into the North Berwick West Links, quite by happenstance. After playing the odd first hole we rose up to the green and then, Voila!, looked out upon those magical links and had a wonderful evening, even joined along the way by a single local and his dog.
Two mornings later, after failing to qualify for the lottery, we woke to a heavy, sideways downpour and 50 degree temps. My friend told me, "you're on your own", and while he found the warm,dry confines of a pub I ventured to the Golf Shop for some rentals and down to the starter's shed.
I soon learned that the protocol was simple. If less than a foursome was on the tee it was incumbent on a single to ask the foursome if one might join. Given the weather that day, it wasn't long before a somewhat unfriendly twosome from the south of the US were on the tee and another single (from San Francisco) and I joined along. It was so dark that morning that the streetlights were still on as we teed off, and I recall hitting a nine-iron beyond the burn and making par at the first, still shaking.
By the second tee two local caddies approached, and although eschewed by the twosome, were quickly hired by me and my new friend from the city by the bay. Umbrellas were useless, and these were the days before rain gloves so the slippery grips of my rental set made the challenging course near impossible. I remember on the 2nd hole I hit my approach about 40 yards left of target only to be told by my caddy, "That should be on the green". Sure enough, when we got up there I was on, about 25 feet from the 16th hole, and I could see the top half of the flagstick about 50 yards away. Still one of the best three putts of my life.
I had a few pars and some "others" and by the time we reached the Eden hole the wind seemed to be gaining in strength, blowing dead into our faces the entire way out to the turn. Our grumpy friends from the south decided they were going to pack it in, even though we were at the furthest point from the clubhouse. My new friend from San Francisco, at least as crazy as me, looked at me in desperation and said, "You're going to keep going, right?", to which I replied, "I can't get any wetter or any colder, of course I'm going to keep playing!"
Into the teeth of the gale, I took a three-iron and hit a low screamer that just got beyond the Strath bunker on to the front of the green. With the hole located steeply on the right rear, I hit a putt that was going well too fast, only it hit the center of the hole, jumped a foot into the air, and settled into the cup. I let out what could only be referred to as a primal scream!
On the way in I was struck by the oddities, such as the blindness and lack of definition on the 12th and 13th, the pervasiveness of the Hell bunker on the par five 14th, the principal's nose, and as we progressed, dense fog started to settle across the course giving everything a sense of mystery and a dreamlike quality.
I hit my best drive of the day on 16, right on the correct line and standing in the fairway with my caddie he started to recount the previous year's Open and how Tom Watson had ended his chances on The Road. Taking a six-iron, my left-handed draw was overcooked just slightly yet bounded across to much the same fate. Taking the club from my hand, the caddy said, "Nice shot, Mr. Watson", with a bit of a knowing grin crossing his face.
Coming up the last, across that timeless bridge, through the fog and seeing the hulking shadows of the clubhouse and town in the distance, I felt a sense of deep relief and gratitude.