We played May River on Sunday afternoon after a quick round at Heron Point in the morning. For those wondering how we were able to play May River given that we were not staying at the Inn at Palmetto Bluff and were not playing with a member, I simply called, asked, and was invited to play. I suggest you do the same if you also have no connections; the assistants at the pro shop seemed very willing to accommodate us. The only requirement was that I provide a letter from a club back home, and a letter from the Metropolitan Golf Association (the MGA to those in the New York metropolitan area), which had been prepared for me in advance of my trip to Australia last summer, sufficed.
Before I get to the course, a few notes on Palmetto Bluff and the experience at May River. More than the other gated golf communities near Hilton Head, Palmetto Bluff is posh. Our caddie told us that John Travolta and several professional athletes, especially from Atlanta teams, have homes in the community. It's also huge, itself the size of Hilton Head Island (20,000 acres). But it is very tastefully done. So when we got to the golf club, we were not surprised at how top-notch the experience was. The clubhouse is one of my favorites, a dark-green shingle-style ranch building that almost disappears into its surroundings. Given how relatively small and understated it is, everything inside feels intimate and warm. The food at the grill is excellent, and tables on the back porch--overlooking the 9th and 18th holes--are available for lunch. Caddies are mandatory for unaccompanied guests, and the caddies work for CaddieMaster, the same company that provides caddies at Augusta National and Pebble Beach, among other courses. There is what I believe is a caddy barn next to the clubhouse, designed in the same dark-green shingle style. I can't speak to the practice facilities, as we proceeded straight to the 1st tee after lunch. Inspired by some of the framed pictures in the locker room and driven by my own personal preference, I took many of my pictures in black and white. Despite my love of "brown" golf courses, I'll admit I was also a bit taken aback by the condition of the course as I looked out over 9 and 18, the latter with an almost neon-green spraypainted green, at lunch. To be sure, we were there in winter, but Harbour Town was fully green and Heron Point had green fairways and consistently white/brown rough. May River was mostly brown, but with many splotchy shades of it. (UPDATE: I have since learned that May River allows its paspalum grass to go dormant in the winter, so that explains the colors of the course.) But, as our excellent caddie, who plays the course often, noted, the condition was probably the best May River is ever in from a playability standpoint, and, to me, the course's setting is so magnificent and serene that it overcame any visual inconsistencies in the turf. (As I wrote in my Harbour Town review, I can't imagine that any of the courses in the Lowcountry ever play truly "firm and fast"--as May River is reputed to but, in my opinion, does not--because the low-lying nature of the land probably doesn't allow for such conditions. If that assumption is incorrect, please correct me.)
The defining features of the golf course are its width, its lack of rough, its small center fairway bunkers, its massive bush- and scrub-dotted fairway bunkers/waste areas (although, much to the caddies' dismay, almost all are played as bunkers and therefore must be raked), and its pushed-up greens. (Incidentally, almost all of the massive fairway bunkers/waste areas--with the exception of the one on 15--are on the left side of the fairway. I'd be curious if anyone has any insight as to why. Sure, it's preferable for a fader of the ball like Nicklaus, but I imagine there is more to it.) There are several forced carries to greens (2, 6, 7, 10, and 14), but each (with the exception of 7) allows the player to miss short and still have a play.
What stands out about the course is not any one hole or stretch of holes (only a few--3, 6 (maybe), 10, and 15--are legitimately great, and many of the holes, given the repetition of the course's defining features, blend together), but its overall feel. There is something very special--tranquil if I had to choose a word--about May River. As others have written, the holes sit easily on the land and, with the exception of the massive fairway bunkers/waste areas (there are so many of them, and they are so big, it's hard not to notice), nothing seems contrived. Most holes are relatively straight, with any doglegs being very gentle, not sharp. Both visually and strategically, my favorite shots involve two of the few elevation changes on the property: the slightly downhill approach on 3 (beautifully framed, not unlike the 10th at Augusta National, by a sprawling fairway bunker on the left and towering pines all around) and the slightly uphill tee shot on 10 (with sandy areas and bunkers reminding the golfer of the Melbourne Sandbelt). In short, the golf course is very good, but the setting and overall experience are what make May River the memorable place that it is.
May River Golf Club, Front Nine May River Golf Club, Hole 1 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 1 (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 1 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 2 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 3 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 3 (fairway) [N.B.: The massive bunker, and general setting, reminded me of Augusta National's 10th.]
May River Golf Club, Hole 4 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 4 (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 4 (fairway/left fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 4 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 5 (fairway/left fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 5 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 6 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 6 (green, viewed from the right)
May River Golf Club, Hole 7 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 7 (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 7 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 8 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 8 (center fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 8 (beginning of left fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 8 (end of left fairway bunker/green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 8 (green, viewed from the right, aside the "heart" bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 9 (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 9 (green, looking backward down the fairway)
May River Golf Club, Back Nine May River Golf Club, Hole 10 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 10 (center fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 10 (end of fairway/green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 11 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 11 (green, looking backward to the tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 12 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 12 (beginning of left fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 12 (middle/end of left fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 12 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 13 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 13 (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 13 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 13 (green, looking back down the fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 14 (green)
May River Golf Club, Hole 15 (right fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 15 (fairway approach)
May River Golf Club, Hole 16 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 16 (right fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 17 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 17 (left waste bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 17 (green, looking backward to the tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole 18 (tee)
May River Golf Club, Hole (fairway)
May River Golf Club, Hole 18 (center fairway bunker)
May River Golf Club, Hole 18 (green, with clubhouse behind)
May River Golf Club, Clubhouse