First trip to SW Ireland

[Keith Phillips]

I am making my first trip to southwest Ireland in May - arrive Shannon Monday morning, May 11th and depart Saturday morning, May 16th.   I've read what I could using the search engine but have some specific questions of those familiar with the area.

1. Ballybunion, Lahinch, Tralee and Waterville I presume are must-plays?
2. Doonbeg looks surprisingly affordable, so I'm inclined to stop there, and Dooks sounds very interesting from what I've read on GCA - thoughts?
3. Old Head seems a bit out of the way for a short trip?
4. Anything inland or along the way that is strongly recommended?
5. Would like to stay at no more than 3 and hopefully 2 hotels - any favorites?

[Tommy Williamsen]

You could play Lahinch on Monday then drive south to play Ballybunion, Tralee, Waterville, and Dooks.  Old Head is quite a haul but it is a pretty drive.  I'd spend some time just driving around Killarney and the Dingle Peninusla. Killarney Golf and Fishing Club is the only inland club I'd even consider.  It has two decent courses but would not forego the links courses to play them. The same is true for Adare Manor as well. While some here would not suggest the Cashen course you might as well play it.  Instead of adding another course I'd play Ballybunion Old twice.  

[Cristian]

Do play Dooks, and for your southern Hotel location I would strongly recommend Carrig House near Killorgin excellent hotel with great food; It is close to Dooks and Tralee and 80 minutes from Waterville. Tip: take the inland road to Waterville (90 mins), spectacular scenery.

Play Ballybunion Old twice.

[Tim_Weiman]

You could play Lahinch on Monday then drive south to play Ballybunion, Tralee, Waterville, and Dooks.  Old Head is quite a haul but it is a pretty drive.  I'd spend some time just driving around Killarney and the Dingle Peninusla. Killarney Golf and Fishing Club is the only inland club I'd even consider.  It has two decent courses but would forego the links courses to play them. The same is true for Adare Manor as well. While some here would not suggest the Cashen course you might as well play it.  Instead of adding another course I'd play Ballybunion Old twice. 

Keith,

I am not a fan of Old Head the golf course, but it is one of those "8 wonders" sites that is worth experiencing at least once and Kinsale is a really neat place with lot of good food.

Be sure to do Dooks. Wonderful place.

[Keith Phillips]

Thanks for all the helpful comments thus far - sounds like Dooks is resoundingly IN, Old Head will be saved for another trip, and Doonbeg will be fit in if the timing is sensible (it's only 65 Euros, vs. E150+ for the big names...shocked that a Trump property might be a value play!)

I will in fact make time for some scenic drives and my current itinerary looks something like this - please let me know if you have suggested improvements:

Day 1 - land 7am drive to Waterville, play Waterville early afternoon
Day 2 - Dooks in the morning, then scenic drive via Dingle Peninsula to Tralee
Day 3 - Tralee in the morning, Ballybunion Old in the afternoon
Day 4 - Lahinch in the morning, then either R&R in the afternoon or 18 at Doonbeg
Day 5 - fly home or stay one extra day and play a second round at Lahinch/Doonbeg

Phew, wish I had more time but commitments at each end.

Will be traveling with my two sons (26 and 20) so interested in fun towns/pubs to visit as well as any convenient distilleries that might be on the way!

[Howard Riefs]

Be sure to hit the Cliffs of Moher, which is about 15 minutes up the road from Lahinch.

[Tim_Weiman]

Keith,

I think you're definitely on the right track trying to eliminate the driving and keeping it comfortable and stress-free. Rushing to Old Head will add stress and, if you're like me, the golf will disappoint. Being from Kerry, the setting doesn't impress me as much as it does most and I actually prefer the likes of a Waterville or Tralee on that front but I'm sure most would disagree.

I would _definitely_ add Dooks. It's fantastic and one of the few clubs in Kerry with a properly low key feel. The rest are real yank factories! (No disrespect intended to our American friends!). Similarly, I would avoid Doonbeg - the course is fine, but a bit disjointed and the experience isn't great - just a bit generic and not very "Irish". I'd either (a) add Dooks and forget Doonbeg or (b) if you're playing Dooks anyway and need to add another just play Lahinch twice. The town of Lahinch beats anything else you will see on your trip for charm - given that you're probably not seeing Dingle which is the best town in the South West by a fair margin.

Hope you enjoy Tralee. Looking forward to the reports.

Brian,

Count me as one American who long ago worried about creeping American influence in Ireland. Happy to see your appreciation for Dooks. The place is heaven in my book. Also share your view of Doonbeg. My best experience there was meeting landowner Tony Pender before any dirt was moved except for all the sand removed from behind what is now the first green. Loved his idea of a no trespassing sign "Beware of Bull".

Never saw the bull, but Tony said it was running around out there somewhere.

[erichunter]

Thanks for all the helpful comments thus far - sounds like Dooks is resoundingly IN, Old Head will be saved for another trip, and Doonbeg will be fit in if the timing is sensible (it's only 65 Euros, vs. E150+ for the big names...shocked that a Trump property might be a value play!)

As for the Trump value play, you may want to check with the course to see which holes are available.  I made a similar trip this past October.  We played a configuration which included two temporary greens and a very awkward routing.  I know they lost one hole (or more) due to the storms last winter but it was a bit jarring playing the course after my first experience there in '01.  The reduced rate may factor ongoing work to the course.  I loved Dooks despite playing in an absolute downpour.  I like Old Head and Cashen more than most on here.  My group really liked Old Head and I have a feeling your sons would enjoy it.  If you are willing to drive from Shannon Airport to Waterville, then you could just as easily drive Shannon to Old Head for the first round.  Double up Waterville/Dooks, then Tralee while staying in Killarney before heading north for Ballybunion, Lahinch, Doonbeg.

[Jim Tang]

Keith -

I did a similar trip in 2009, solo self drive.  Some suggestions...

The Irish roads are skinny, so book as small a rental car as possible.  Make sure you get the optional GPS equipment.  I could not have gotten from point A to point B without it.

When driving from Ballybunion to Lahinch, you will need to take a ferry across the River Shannon.  While the ferry crossing is not complicated or long, there are only certain times when you will be able to catch the ferry.  So, you'll have to time it up right.

I drove the Ring of Kerry and found it to be one of the world's great coastal drives, along the lines of Highway 1 in California and the Great Ocean Road in Australia.

Dooks is a wonderful gem not to be missed.  Fantastic setting with a very different feel than the other courses you'll be playing.

I spent a fine day at Doonbeg and feel it's worth a look if in the area.  As noted, it's Americanized and has a less authentic feel than the other places you'll be visiting.  And yet, the dunes are enormous, the scenery spectacular and the course was fun to play.

Lahinch and Ballybunion are two of my favorite places on the planet to play golf.  Both are magical and you will never forget your time there.

[John McCarthy]

My aunt and uncle has a b and b halfway between Lahinch and the ferry to Kerry. http://www.westclare.net/aylevarroo/

If they knew I touted their business they would never speak to me again.

[J_ Crisham]

Monday:  Lahinch , Cliffs of Moher after Golf- breathtaking views. Drive to Killarney via the ferry
Tuesday: Dooks AM, Tralee PM
Weds: Waterville
Thursday: Ballybunion 36 holes , Cashen if The Old course is unavailable for 36.
Friday: Doonbeg -  finishing here puts you in close proximity for your flight home on Saturday Am.



 Staying in Killarney on Mon-Weds night and Ennis on Thursday/Friday night. I have done this in some fashion 6 times and it was very stress free and limits the driving which is a completely different animal than in the States. Make sure you have an automatic transmission and always stay left- if you toe the centerline line you will have a street sign named after you that consists of a big black dot! True story!
                            Wish you well,   jack

[Matt Elliot]

Since I was not fortunate to play golf on all the fine courses in Ireland when I went over I will not give course advice like the rest.  I will second the Cliffs of Moher stop, it is absolutely breath taking.  The Ring of Kerry is a fantastic drive and Kenmare is a wonderful town.  I have played the Kenmare Golf Club but it is not in the same league as what you are going to play.  Every town will have great pubs.  Ask the locals where they recommend to eat and have a pint.  They will be glad to help a Yankee as you will most likely get called a time or two.  Guinness in Ireland tastes so good!! Slaninte!!

[Brett Wiesley]

I'd heavily second the cliffs of moher, and bring a jacket and your flask. It's windy, breathtaking, and a place you'll remember with your sons, and I give a nod to being worth the time and a private swig while there. I was underwhelmed with Doonbeg save just a few holes, and they may be working on the course then. The towns of Killarney and Lahinch are charming.  Waterville or Old head would be a long drive for a round so you need to weigh golf vs trip experience.  Double up on Lahinch OLD at the end and head back to Shannon. One of my favorite courses.  I went with my brother and Father a few years ago and will never forget the trip. Golf for sure, but side trips to the Blarney Stone, Cliffs of Moher and pubs stand out. You may remember the caddies more than the golf as well.  Some may not like me saying this, but links golf is humbling for Americans on there first trip and so a round at Adare Manor or Killarney May be a nice break from the wind, etc. 

[Jud_T]

Lahinch and Ballybunion Old as much as time and money will allow.  I'd like to see Dooks though.  Waterville is a great party town and a beautiful drive but it's not in the same class as the big 2.

[David Davis]

On day 2 if you are pumped up after the golf and looking for more you could also stop in for a quick 18 at Dingle Links since you drive right by it. It's fun, way low key and a look a look at the depth of golf in Irleand. At 30-55 euro good value in my mind.

That's if your a 36 a day kind of guy.

[Ally Mcintosh]

On day 2 if you are pumped up after the golf and looking for more you could also stop in for a quick 18 at Dingle Links since you drive right by it. It's fun, way low key and a look a look at the depth of golf in Irleand. At 30-55 euro good value in my mind.

That's if your a 36 a day kind of guy.

I'd agree David because it's a beautiful drive round past the Blasket Islands to the golf course. But even if he takes the longest scenic route from Dooks to Tralee via Inch and then Dingle and then over the Conor Pass (a must), then going to Dingle Links adds another 45 minutes driving. It is a cul de sac further on from the loop.

[Keith Phillips]

Thanks again for all the helpful comments - my further thoughts below:

- have added a day to the trip so now have 5 full days instead of 4 - could use a couple more!
- still thinking through lodging and 'scenic drives but will drive at least one of the Dingle Peninsula and Ring of Kerry
- had never heard of the Cliffs of Moher but have now researched - definitely IN the itinerary thanks!
- will still likely miss Old Head - the scenery looks great but the extra few hours driving a difference-maker on a short trip - plus at E230 it's 50 Euros more than Ballybunion and E80 more than Lahinch so I'm passing on principle!
- Doonbeg a lightning-rod but is rated #85 on the Planet Golf world list, and rated higher across the board than Tralee in the newest Confidential Guide ratings...not all about ratings but that tells me I should include it if I have time at the end - I will call to get an update on the construction as that must explain the very low green fees
- Dooks high on my list based on all your feedback and some other research - may be a poor analogy but I always play Crail when I'm in Fife and really love it as a warmup to links play - will approach Dooks the same way
- Tralee seems to get mixed reviews - seems hard to miss it for Dooks or Doonbeg but something may have to go - would omitting Tralee be a travesty?
- similar mixed feelings on Waterville - will def. play at least one of Waterville and Tralee and probably both, but if I have to miss one what would folks recommend?
- driving tips are appreciated - I did live in Virginia Water for 2 years and have driven all around Scotland, but that doesn't make it any easier - will def. get automatic and will find the narrowest car that can comfortably fit 3 grown men with golfing gear!
- in terms of routing there are some tee time issues which may govern...Ballybunion very busy on the Thursday, which is otherwise the best day for me...Lahinch not great on the Monday we land etc. - will likely head SW to Killarney/Waterville and slowly meander north to finish at Doonbeg/Lahinch...close to airport for early morning departures on day 6
- The Blarney Stone would be great fun to see but looks like that's better for a future trip that includes Old Head
- thanks for the tips re. the ferry - I will look into that vs the Limerick bypass!
- Dingle Links looks fun but too out of the way for this quick trip !

[jeffwarne]

Keith,
You should listen to Brian as he's the homer on this one.
Tralee is not to be missed, despite what many may post.
I was far more impressed with Tralee in 2012 than I was on my initial visit in 1991.

First of all you do not want/need a "small car"if  there are 4 of you and the roads are not as bad as advertised.
a minivan is what want-they are dirt cheap if you get manual, which are not that tricky to drive, but are available in automatic for a premium.

Day 1 7 am arrival from US is 2 am eastern-no time to be playing golf-use time to drive to Waterville, have a nice lunch and see if you can check in early at hotel (It would now be around 1 o'clock. freshen up, get organized, (20 min power nap) and play around 2;30 or 3 oclock.
Have a couple pints in town and get to bed at reasonable hour.

day 2 Dooks early, Dingle gc afternoon-  stay in Dingle and have big evening out.

Day 3 Tralee mid/late morning, followed by emergency 9 at Castlegregory followed by drive back to Dingle via wild Dingle pass (different route than you took from Dooks)  Yes this is bit of backtracking but saves you from moving, adds a spectacular scenic drive, and gives you an extra night in Dingle which is a much better town than all the others (esp, Ballybunion) and gives you minimal chances of minging with overlogoed sweater vests)  stay in Dingle and clean up whatever mess you created the night before

Day 4 Ballybunion  Old and New (they'll suggest a buggy for your afternoon round which you may well need and there will be plenty being used)
New is included in fee.. Stay in Lahinch.

Day 5 Doonbeg in am, Lahinch in pm-stay in Lahinch again with one hour ride to airport in am.

That's 3 hotels all in good towns-(2 golf towns and one fun, tourist but not golf town), 5 big guns, 4 gems (if we can call the New a gem-it's at least a bargain)

Have fun

[Keith Phillips]

OK Tralee is back in the rota...and Jeff my back is sore just thinking of that itinerary - but it sounds doable and fun!!  One issue pointed out in a separate PM is the long drive to Waterville straight off a redeye - I'm inclined to do it but that's the one drive that worries me most, with my two boys undoubtedly snoring peacefully in the back.  Day 4, waking in Dingle, driving to Ballybunion for 36 then off to Lahinch for the night seems intimidating as well, but I'll do some work on google maps and figure something out.  The town of Dingle sounds like a blast, and I'll be sure to save my plentiful logo gear for the other venues!

[jeffwarne]

OK Tralee is back in the rota...and Jeff my back is sore just thinking of that itinerary - but it sounds doable and fun!!  One issue pointed out in a separate PM is the long drive to Waterville straight off a redeye - I'm inclined to do it but that's the one drive that worries me most, with my two boys undoubtedly snoring peacefully in the back.  Day 4, waking in Dingle, driving to Ballybunion for 36 then off to Lahinch for the night seems intimidating as well, but I'll do some work on google maps and figure something out.  The town of Dingle sounds like a blast, and I'll be sure to save my plentiful logo gear for the other venues!

optional skips-Ballybunion New, Castlegregory, Doonbeg  (but still take the drive back via Dingle pass way)
If you were to cut out Dingle, I'd add a drive around the ring of Kerry from Waterville to Killarney (Mahoney's Point is lovely and a nice change of pace) en route to Dooks

I only added Dingle because you were driving out that way anyway. It would be the weakest of all the courses but a pleasant local venue, and a great town

I understand the drive off a redeye is tough, BUT playing golf in the middle of the night eastern time is NO fun right off the plane.
If you go straight to Lahinch you end up with a lot of Day 1 dead time, and risk not quickly acclimating to the time change.

[Michael Latham]

Keith,
I am a member of Ballybunion and a regular visitor to Kerry from London. If I may make a few observations.
Jeff's suggestions are in the main, excellent. I would add the following:
1. Do not get a small car. Get a comfortable car/minivan with auto. The roads are fine but 3 guys with clubs will be needing some room.
2. The off the plane Waterville drive is a challenge. Allow 3.5 hours and if you are wide awake when you get to Kilorglin and the weather is good, go New Line Road/ Annadale Road/Groynes Cross and over the pass. The descent into Waterville is breathtaking.
3. day 4 after Ballybunion, stay in Ballybunion rather than drive to Lahinch. Do that drive after the early ferry the next morning. Let me know if you need help as to where.

[Tim_Weiman]

Keith,

Despite a few flaws, I would definitely recommend Tralee over Doonbeg. Waterville is a place I have mixed feelings about. I was never that thrilled with the golf course - even before any work Fazio did - but the setting and the trip to the setting are pretty nice.

[Brett Wiesley]

Definitely second Tralee.  Skip Doonbeg.

I did the drive to Waterville over "the pass" and it was in bad weather and we thought we driving through " middle Earth".

[Keith Phillips]

Well, I got the answer on Doonbeg - they are undergoing some 'maintenance' such that only 10 holes will be in play until June 1st - so that clears some time in the itinerary!  Reworking things to see if I will add Old Head, or more time in Dingle, or 36 at either Ballybunion or Lahinch - appreciate all the good advice from this group!

[Greg Taylor]

What is it with the Cliffs of Moher...?

You kind of walk up to them, get a pic, cos everyone else it taking pics and then it's done. Lots of cliffs.

I just didn't get what the fuss was about... call me a philstine if you want... maybe I should get the guide book next time!