Resurrecting the Melbourne Sandbelt, Part I (Victoria Golf Club) (w/pictures)

[Benjamin Litman]

The "Dissecting the Melbourne sandbelt" thread has been notable for several reasons, all of which, I think, trace to the mischaracterization of the article by Fergal O'Leary that started it. When I read Fergal's entire article, I came away with the impression of someone who adored the Sandbelt but, like most of us, felt free to share those very few things he didn't like. The reason I share negatives (e.g., conspicuous cart paths at Pebble Beach and Yale, road crossings at Royal Melbourne) is not because they "ruin" courses for me. I am and always have been a big-picture person, one who never lets one or several negatives detract from a generally positive experience. That is especially so with golf, which, frankly, we are all very fortunate to play. So when I share negatives, I do so with natural human aspiration in mind—i.e., as amazing as a given course is, it could be even better if. I imagine Fergal, like most of us, feels the same way.

With that in mind, I figured I'd post photo tours from my delightful trip to the Sandbelt this past summer (all courses played in early/mid-August 2014). I've named the threads "Resurrecting the Melbourne Sandbelt" not because I'm religious or Christian (I'm neither), but because reading Sandbelt-related threads on this site leaves one with the (mis)impression that the courses are well past their time. I couldn't disagree more, so you'll find very little "bashing" from me—the courses, even in the dead of the Australian "winter," looked and played even better than I had anticipated. I'll start with the first course we played, the famed Victoria Golf Club.

One touch that made Victoria stand out was the club's policy of flying on the massive flagpole behind the clubhouse and visible from many points on the course the flag of the country from which that day's visitors hail. I am not a flag-waiving American, but I was genuinely moved to see the American flag flown in our honor as we toured the world-class course on a picturesque morning.



A few comments about the course and some of the holes before I get to the pictures:  People say the course lacks great holes, but I think that's largely because many of the holes play and look similar. For example, all four of the par-3s play uphill over large sandy areas. That doesn't make them bad holes—I personally think each is a beautiful, world-class hole—but it does make them less memorable and distinguishable in the mind. Likewise, the second and third holes are both long, straight par-4s that play along the same property border/fence; the sixth and eighth holes, though a par-4 and par-5 respectively, run in the same direction and along similar land; etc. But, on stepping back and thinking through my round, I can confidently say that the course has at least twelve great holes: 1, 4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18. From my list, you can see that I'm particularly fond of the back nine, which starts in epic fashion--the only hiccup being the approach and green complex at 12 (especially disappointing after an all-world tee shot). I also didn't love 17, but those are minor complaints. The stretch from 10-14 in particular blew me away. As for topography, the course benefits from a great variety of flats and hills, the combination of which allows for many views (and sneak peeks) of other holes. The course shares some of Kingston Heath's intimacy and some of Royal Melbourne's grandeur, but it’s its own unique place, and a very, very special one at that. If I could choose one club to join in the Sandbelt, it would be either Victoria or Kingston Heath.

The first tee provides wonderful views of the course's mesmerizing topography. This picture is looking left from the first tee, out over the tenth tee and fairway, glazed with a winter morning's frost:


The first hole is a fun, short par-4 (think medium iron and flip wedge) that plays with the mind (and the scorecard, if you’re not careful, which most of us aren’t at the beginning of a round).

Hole 1 (Looking Backward from the Green)


The second and third holes are probably the least interesting on the entire course, but their length and straightness allow the golfer to work his way into the round.

Hole 2 (Fairway/Green)


The first of the par-3s—each of which plays differently despite all being uphill—is the fourth, framed by cavernous bunkers on all sides.

Hole 4 (Tee)


Hole 4 (Green)


The fifth hole is the first of numerous gentle doglegs that imbue the course with a wonderful flow and rhythm.

Hole 5 (Fairway) (N.B.: the tee is back and to the right of where this picture is taken, making the hole a gentle dogleg right off the corner fairway bunker on the right)


Hole 5 (Green) (N.B.: a brilliantly guarded green, as the bunkers short right force the golfer to miss left, but, although no bunkers await on that side, a falloff does)


Hole 6 (Fairway/Green)


Hole 7 (Tee)


Hole 7 (Green)


Hole 9 (Fairway) (N.B.: the adjacent tenth hole, with the tee and clubhouse in the distance, is to the right)


Hole 10 (Tee) (N.B.: notice how the foreshortening between the left and right sets of bunkers (which are actually separated by a considerable distance) visually squeeze the actually generous landing area from the tee)


Hole 10 (Fairway) (N.B.: now you can see how far apart the left and right sets of bunkers actually are)


Hole 10 (Fairway/Green) (N.B.: this is the view from outside the bunkers guarding the right side of the fairway)


I can’t decide if I prefer the tenth or the eleventh hole, even though I birdied the latter, so I’ll just say they are the two best back-to-back holes on the property—and very much, both figuratively and literally (i.e., where they are situated), the heart of the course.

Hole 11 (Fairway)


Hole 11 (Fairway/Green)


The twelfth hole is defined by its spectacular tee shot (not pictured), and the approach, although uninspiring, provides a glimpse of the Royal Melbourne clubhouse in the distance.

Hole 12 (Green) (N.B.: I believe the bunker Fergal O'Leary called "outrageously uncharacteristic" is this one to the left of the twelfth green)


The thirteenth hole features a blind tee shot up over a hill that it shares with the adjacent twelfth hole (producing a gentle dogleg right on both holes, albeit more pronounced on the twelfth).

Hole 13 (Fairway) (N.B.: as someone else on here has mentioned, note the similarity between the green complex here and at the fifth on Royal Melbourne (West))


Perhaps my favorite view on the entire Sandbelt, and certainly at Victoria, is this view looking back up the fairway on 13. It captures everything that makes Victoria special.

Hole 13 (Looking Backward from Green)


The fourteenth is the shortest of the par-3s, but perhaps the most intimidating from the tee and the hardest to score on.

Hole 14 (Tee)


The fifteenth is a devilish short par-4, where hitting the fairway (and not the huge complex of bunkers guarding the right side of the hole) is paramount. A faded iron is therefore the proper play from the tee. Find the complex on the right and you will have a very difficult time holding a brutal green, especially if you catch your fairway-bunker shot even a touch thin.

Hole 15 (Fairway, Looking Backward Across the Adjacent Eleventh)


Hole 15 (Green) (N.B.: the steepness of the falloff behind this green should be apparent)


The last of the par-3s, the sixteenth, offers perhaps the easiest tee shot, with most of the trouble on one side (left), but the hole's length makes a well-struck long iron or hybrid critical.

Hole 16 (Tee-to-Green Bunker Complex)


Hole 16 (Green)


Hole 16 (Green)


Hole 17 (Green) (N.B.: the green is to the right, and the eighteenth tee is to the left)


Hole 18 (Fairway)


All in all, a world-class course that, I feel, is often underrated. The bunkering, though sharing certain qualities, feels different than at the other Sandbelt courses (perhaps because it better combines defined bunkers and undefined sandy waste areas), and the vistas are unparalleled. It's an easy, fun walk (with more topographical variety than at Kingston, but not enough to tire you out), and a great atmosphere. The clubhouse oozes history and has some great memorabilia, which the head professional, Paul Wright, was kind enough to walk us through. It also has what I've heard are amazing suites, which I might well stay in if I ever make it back to Melbourne. I was very much looking forward to the highly touted lunch, but I can't say it did much for my palate. Gorgeous dining room (and patio), but my entire time in Australia taught me that, while the country is many wonderful things, a food destination isn't one of them. The golf did more than enough to compensate.

[RJ_Daley]

My favorite time of year here on GCA when we see  an uptick in posts about courses down under.  Nicely presented, Benjamin. 

[Benjamin Litman]

Thanks, RJ. Ironically, I played the Sandbelt in early/mid-August 2014--i.e., the Australian winter. It just so happens that I didn't become a member here on GCA until a few weeks ago. Parts II (Metropolitan), III (Kingston Heath), and IV (Royal Melbourne) will follow relatively soon.

[Pat Burke]

I was able to play a Vic Open at Victoria.  It was a course that just fit my eye from the first time I played it.
Funny thing, is that little 15th hole tee shot made me crazy.  It seemed like it should be perfect for me back then.
My normal shot was a draw.  All I had to do was hit a solid 3 iron off the tee, and wedge it to the little target on the green.

Bunkers left of the fairway were like an enormous magnet for me

Thanks for posting this, one of my favorite courses!

[Ben Jarvis]

Benjamin,

Thanks for your efforts in pulling this together. I am really looking forward to reading the upcoming reviews.

Ben

[Mike_Clayton]

Pat

You won that Vic Open didn't you? 15 is a brilliant little hole - perplexing always.

[Benjamin Litman]

Nice anecdote, Pat. Victoria seems like a terrific tournament host--both as a course and as a club. 15 destroyed me, too. Even though I hit a fade, I, too, managed to find the bunkers on the left. I proceeded to catch my approach shot (the dreaded 80-yard bunker shot) a touch thin. It hit hard off the slope/cliff at the back of the green and ran all the way across the tenth green into a greenside bunker! Let's just say I was happy to have made six from there.

Ben, glad you enjoyed. Metropolitan should be next, followed by Kingston Heath and Royal Melbourne. I look forward to your thoughts, as always, and hope you're doing well.

[Michael Wharton-Palmer]

This just intensifies my excitement for my trip at the end of March,including a nights stay at Victoria,thank you for wetting the appetite even more with this marvelous thread

[Benjamin Litman]

Happy to help, Michael. Again, stay tuned for similar reviews of Metropolitan, Kingston Heath, and Royal Melbourne. I'm jealous that you're staying at Victoria; seems like the ideal way to enjoy the Sandbelt (and eat amazing breakfasts to start off long days of golf). It's a truly great club and course, so enjoy. What's your full lineup?

[Tom_Doak]

Victoria has come such a long way in the past 10 years.  When I first visited Melbourne in 1988, I figured the course's reputation must be based on Peter Thomson having been a member here, because the detailing of the course was so far gone.  Mike Clayton and his crew have done a great job with it, and kudos to the club for turning them loose.  [Or maybe it wasn't that easy ]

[Don Jordan]

Nice work Benjamin!

I had the pleaseure of playing there over Christmas and really enjoyed it. I love the first hole such an intersting challenge.

The one thing I did find interesting (and I am still not sure whether it is a good or bad thing) is how all the par 3's go up hill to some extent. I haven't played another course where that is the case. They seem to force a long carry over sand without anoter option for the seniors, I suppose the saving grace is they can tee the ball up rather than having to traverse these upslopes as s second shot on a par four etc.

I attended the 2010 Masters and thought it was a great test for the pro's, I think it is one of the best examples of adding back tees for tournament play without altering the course too much.

[Benjamin Litman]

Tom, my experience certainly confirms that the club remains wildly proud of having Peter Thomson as a member. The first room Paul Wright showed us was the Thomson trophy room. When you say the course's detailing was "so far gone," was it like Bethpage Black before the restoration, or better because Victoria was still a private club? I imagine that even in 1988, you could tell what the improved detailing simply makes more apparent--that the course has always had great bones.

Don, thanks. We're in full agreement on the par-3s, but as I note in my review, I still found each to be unique and play differently despite all being uphill. Interesting comment about the setup for the Masters, but I imagine it's applicable to most of the top Sandbelt courses. Because they are so wide off the tee, everyone can play and enjoy them, but the genius of the bunkering and the green complexes still makes them challenging for the pros.

[Mike_Clayton]

Tom

Thank you.

It's been 20 years this August since we started work at Victoria - our first job. In many ways it was precipitated by the condition of the course during the 1994 Vic Open - which Pat Burke modestly failed to mention he won. John Sloan,Bruce Grant and Ian Todd did a terrific job cleaning that issue up.
The amazing 1932 photo showed how good and dramatic the course was when it was built but so much of the bunkering, by the mid-70s was reduced to a pedestrian imitation of what the original founders had left.
I doubt it is as good as it was in 1932 but it's much improved from 1975 - and 1995.

[Tom_Doak]

Tom, my experience certainly confirms that the club remains wildly proud of having Peter Thomson as a member. The first room Paul Wright showed us was the Thomson trophy room. When you say the course's detailing was "so far gone," was it like Bethpage Black before the restoration, or better because Victoria was still a private club? I imagine that even in 1988, you could tell what the improved detailing simply makes more apparent--that the course has always had great bones.

Well, Bethpage Black was an overgrown mess the first time I saw it in 1979 so, no, Victoria was not that far gone.  But it was far enough gone that I had no clue it had ever been very good to begin with.  The bunkering was terribly bland compared to other courses on the Sand Belt, and the routing is not that special to me.  The course was not in the same league as Commonwealth or Yarra Yarra in 1988.  I was really shocked when Mike showed me the old aerial for the first time and I saw how many cool features had been lost.

[jonathan_becker]

Given the quality of the course, the welcoming nature of the club, and the dining/accommodations on site....I would highly recommend Victoria as a great introduction for any Australian golf trip.   The club let me play golf /decompress from traveling at my leisure and staff and members could not have been nicer. 

Victoria is still the only course I've ever played or heard of that has consecutive par 5s to finish on each side.

[jonathan_becker]

Given the quality of the course, the welcoming nature of the club, and the dining/accommodations on site....I would highly recommend Victoria as a great introduction for any Australian golf trip.   The club let me play golf /decompress from traveling at my leisure and staff and members could not have been nicer. 

Concur - it's a really nice club with lovely members.

I teamed up with some members to play the back 9 and they could not have been more welcoming to me.  In fact, they told me never hesitate to join up with a group in Australia as most would prefer it than have me just play through.  Aside from the rounds that I already had set up with the Aussie GCAers, I followed their advice and it worked out great for the rest of the trip.

[Terry Lavin]

Given the quality of the course, the welcoming nature of the club, and the dining/accommodations on site....I would highly recommend Victoria as a great introduction for any Australian golf trip.   The club let me play golf /decompress from traveling at my leisure and staff and members could not have been nicer. 

Concur - it's a really nice club with lovely members.

I teamed up with some members to play the back 9 and they could not have been more welcoming to me.  In fact, they told me never hesitate to join up with a group in Australia as most would prefer it than have me just play through.  Aside from the rounds that I already had set up with the Aussie GCAers, I followed their advice and it worked out great for the rest of the trip.

That's an awesome statement about the local golf culture.

[Benjamin Litman]

Agree with all of the above. If I ever am fortunate enough to return to the Sandbelt, I'll almost certainly stay at Victoria. I'm still torn between Victoria and Kingston in terms of which, if I were ever in the position to geographically and financially, I would seek to join as a member. It was hard to decide when I was there, and it's still hard to decide now.

A few other points about the "golf culture" in the Sandbelt that really stood out to me:

(1) The hospitality for foreign visitors is incredible (and not just because the green fees are so high). Although not every club flies the flag of the visitors like Victoria does, each club provides visitors with a welcome kit of goodies, free use of all the facilities (locker room, grill and dining room), and a general welcoming attitude. That each visitor is "a member for a day" is not only a saying but a reality. On a personal note, I made friends with the staff at each club and have remained in touch by email in the months since. Many plan trips to the United States and will seek out your advice for where (and with whom) to play once here.

(2) On a related note, if you extend your stay in Sandbelt, I strongly encourage you to reach out to your club contact and ask if you can play the course again at a lower rate (unless, of course, you have a member contact, in which case you're all set). Most will honor the request.

(3) The clubs impress on everyone, members and guests alike, the importance of course maintenance. Each player must carry (and refill, as necessary) a small sandbucket for divots, and most of the clubs, especially Royal Melbourne, have explicit instructions in the locker room about how to properly repair ball marks. Oh, and rolling buggies across greens is encouraged (a nice touch that Streamsong has adopted, too).

[Matthew Mollica]

The greens and fescue surrounds at RM are a no go zone for buggies gents...

[Mike_Clayton]

Matt

Given what a relative pain it is now playing RM and keeping buggies off the greens why don't more members carry their clubs? It's so much easier.

[Pat Burke]

Clayts,
The sand belt was obviously good to me.  There was just something about it.
The first event I ever played in Melbourne, was the wind disaster OPen at Royal Melbourne

When I first stepped on the property, I truly believe there was inspiration in seeing the course that
got me playing better.  I'm a very visual player, and RM, Kingston Heath, and Victoria, just seemed
to bring the best out of my game.  Seeing shots, using the movement on the ground and the firmness/speed,
was just a fun experience.  I am very happy Victoria has made the improvements, it is a cool place!

[Mike_Clayton]

Pat.

So true - I too have found them easy courses to play well on - Kingston Heath especially. Not that I always did play well but MacKenzie wanted people to play and gave them space to do that - as well as making holes where hitting good shots was really fun.

We need to catch up next time I'm over - or you ever get back here.

[Adam_Messix]

The Victoria Golf Club is one of those truly fun clubs where everyone from the membership to the staff made a group of visiting Americans staying in house feel so welcome.  

The golf course is a real gem and you know you're in for something special standing on the first tee and looking at what seems to be a pretty benign and gettable start.  The more you look at it though, you see that it take a perfect shot to drive the green and the penalty for a miss is pretty severe.  It's one of those holes where you rare back to see how far you can hit it and find out how far off line you can hit it.  We went out one night near dusk with a bunch of balls and tried to pull off the necessary sliding cut to reach the green.  

The par 3s, as is the case everywhere in the sandbelt, are simply outstanding.  I love the two uphill short holes on the back nine.  With every other short hole in the sandbelt, they are simple and simply elegant.  Sandwiched between the two short holes on the back is the short par 4, 15th with a fairway working between a group of bunkers and sliding left.  A well played drive is handsomely rewarded here.  Victoria is also unique with it's back to back fives finishing each side.  What I love here is that one is gettable, while the other is not.  The finisher is a nearly perfect match play hole that is a potential eagle with two great shots, but a mis played or mis considered shot will be punished.

Wonderful course, wonderful club and the kind of course that is a pleasure to play every day; compelling, interesting, and fun.