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JBovay

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In April and May of this year, my wife and I celebrated my graduation and several other things with a trip around the world. We first visited her family in China, and then did some sightseeing all over Scotland. The trip closed with 9 days of golf, mostly in and near St. Andrews.

Over the next several weeks or months, I will post commentary and photos on the courses I played on the trip, starting with Pasatiempo, which I played a few days before we left.

I'll then post some thoughts on golf in China.

And then I'll get into what I hope will be useful information for those planning trips to Scotland, as well as providing opinions and commentary to foster discussion of many of the courses discussed so often here. The order of courses we played on the trip was Eden, Crail Balcomie, Himalayas, Old, New, Carnoustie, North Berwick, Kingsbarns, Royal Aberdeen, and Cruden Bay. I won't be posting in that order.

As a foreword to the rest of the posts: I am not an expert on these courses, unlike many of you here who are members of the clubs or have worked on them or written books about them. I'm not trying to one-up anyone's existing commentary, but just to provide my own insight, hopefully some unique photos, and yet another forum for discussion of what makes for good golf architecture.

JB

Edit: Decided to start additional threads to save bandwidth and streamline whatever discussion might ensue.

Balcomie Links at Crail: http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,59397.0.html

Eden, New, and Himalayas, St. Andrews: http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,59497.0.html
« Last Edit: September 06, 2014, 08:31:13 AM by JBovay »

JBovay

  • Karma: +0/-0
A few days before my flight to China in late April, I finally made the 2.5 hour drive from my house and paid $165 for a last-minute tee time at Alister Mackenzie's slightly underappreciated gem, Pasatiempo, as a way of saying goodbye to northern California. Highway 17 from San Jose to Santa Cruz winds down a fairly narrow mountain pass, often surrounded with redwoods, and just off this highway is the setting for Pasatiempo. I'd been on a hike in a state park nearby a few months earlier, and the trail emerges from cool, damp canyons of redwoods to a sandhill of pines overlooking Monterey Bay just a mile from the 14th tee at Pasatiempo. I had hoped and expected that Marion Hollins and Dr. Mackenzie had found a piece of that terrain for their course, but the soil at Pasatiempo is rockier and coarser. The barrancas cutting through the back nine presumably help greatly with drainage, as does the overall topography in that the course has more than 250 feet of elevation gain from its low point (the 6th tee) to its high (the 12th). In addition, these barrancas and elevation changes provide a thrilling landscape on which to play golf.

Pasatiempo's two nines are of dramatically different characters. The front nine, with nearly straight holes set through immense cypress trees, reminded me favorably of Olympic (Lake) and photos of I've seen of other private clubs in San Francisco. The back features pines more prominently amid the aforementioned system of barrancas crossing or paralleling nearly every hole. The scorecard reads 6500 yards from the back tees, but Pasatiempo plays much longer than almost every course of similar yardage--not only because of its five par 3s and par of 70, but also because the design takes advantage of the significant elevation changes and features greens that require precise approaches. I don't know whether this is true of Pasatiempo on a typical day, or if we were treated to a special tournament-tough set of pin positions, but I reckon that each hole was cut within 3 to 6 paces of the edge of the green the day I played. I suspect that Pasatiempo's huge greens, huge maintenance budget, and challenge-accepting membership enable such taxing pin placements on a regular basis.

The first three holes of Pasatiempo are all half-pars, especially from the tournament tees that stretch out the course's yardage to around 6650. The first (457/440) plays downhill off the tee but the landing area is approximately level with the 42-yard-deep green, and a fade into the green is advised. [Note: yardages are given from the tournament tees and from the forward tees, recognizing that players have the flexibility to choose any tee with which they're comfortable.]

The view from the first tee:



From the non-tournament tees on the second (486/376), the fairway is blind, and a telephone pole near the green serves as an aiming point. Both of the first two tee shots offer great views of Monterey Bay on a clear day.

The view from near the tournament tee on the second hole:



The second green introduces the visitor to the spectacular contouring that characterizes nearly all the greens on the rest of the course. The third (235/175) plays back uphill some 40 feet and must play as one of the longest par-3s in the world. One of my playing partners, a member of the club, said that during the Western Intercollegiate the week before, many of the college boys were laying up off the tee, simply trying to give themselves a clean lie and a good angle for their chips and knowing that par would easily beat the field average.

Third hole:



(The severity of Dr. Mackenzie's greens contouring at Pasatiempo makes fast greens seem almost unplayable. Another of my playing partners, a very long hitter, played a very high draw to the left of the front hole location that might be barely visible in the photo above. It rolled off that slope rather gently, and seemed to trickle by the hole before falling down the slope some 20 yards short of the green. I had similar experiences on other holes: on 8, I chunked a chip from an awkward lie on the edge of the fringe, greenside but short of the hole, and the ball ended up on the green but further from the hole than it began. On 11, I hit what I thought was an excellent bunker shot from the back-left bunker, on a conservative line some 25 feet above the hole, but still ended up 10 yards below the front of the green for my par attempt. And that day, the greens were only running about a 10.)

The seventh is a short par 4 at 348/327, but the member I played with advised hitting driver to get as close to the hole as possible and allow a more vertical approach into the tiny green. I agree with his strategy, and think that Dr. Mackenzie's vision for this hole--his ability to understand how to squeeze something great out of that corner of the land--is a great example of his extraordinary genius for golf course design.

The back nine at Pasatiempo is truly world-class, and full of exciting golf. The tenth (440) involves an intimidating drive over a barranca that really shouldn't be a factor (and for which a bailout option is available right). The famous series of bunkers short-left of the green is visually impressive, but so too is the contouring of the putting surface and placement of the rear bunker.

Tee shot on 10:



10th and 16th greens, viewed from the 17th tee:



The 11th (392/311) yet again exemplifies excellent use of topography and topographical constraints, playing a full 90 feet uphill and perhaps 50 yards longer than the distance on the scorecard. Tom Doak cited this hole as an example of the approximate upper limit on feasible changes in elevation on a single hole (I'm paraphrasing), and given that, I think it's a testament to the quality of the design at Pasatiempo that the walk doesn't look or feel like mountain climbing, unlike holes I've played at some modern courses where riding in carts is the norm. (I think three factors may help contribute here: the gentle, constant grade of the hole; the visual break in the form of the barranca and bridge; and the clear sight lines to surrounding hills with even greater elevation and grade.)

11th tee, 12th green, 11th green in background across the red bridge:



The 12th (373) plays back down the same hillside as the 11th plays up, and though I recognized the elevation change, I flew my approach way over the green leaving an impossible pitch. Beware.

For me, the highlight of the 13th, a reachable par 5 (531/446), was the series of huge, striking bunkers defending the green and all attempts to play a running shot in:





On the 14th (429/331), a T-shaped, 4-foot-deep depression surely catches most drives that find the fairway, and level lies are almost impossible. It's another great defense for a shortish par 4.



14th green and 15th hole:



The 16th (387/353) is unlike any hole I've ever seen: the drive must be hit to the top of a round hill that falls off in all directions, with a barranca left and OB right. My playing partner advised a shot that carried 220 or 230 from the back tees, played toward the tallest tree beyond the fairway. Upon reaching the fairway, players are left to face a monstrous 3-tier green, 49 yards deep and with about 10 feet of elevation change from top to bottom.

The 16th green:



The 18th (169/88), of course, is a terrific medium-length par 3 finisher, and a fairly precise yardage is required to carry the false front and stay on the shallow green. Thus, Pasatiempo closes with yet another example of how Dr. Mackenzie was able to fit the holes to the land, maximizing the resources available and creating a thrilling, compelling, and unique golf course.



For any reader of this website, I recommend Pasatiempo as a must-play, as so many others have done, for anyone visiting either San Francisco or Monterey for a golf trip, but I'd even recommend taking the opportunity to play if you're on a business trip within a 3-hour radius. I sincerely regret that I didn't avail myself of the opportunity to play it often while living in California, even though doing so wouldn't have been easy on my wallet: Pasatiempo is a tremendous golf course and even--among courses of such quality in the United States--a good value.

I'd summarize the strengths of Pasatiempo as follows: the natural setting (especially the elevation changes and the barrancas), the greens contouring, the artful bunker shaping and placement, and the specific way the architect leveraged the property's restrictions and subtle features of the land to create interesting, beautiful, and challenging golf holes. Put together, these factors make for a world-class golf course.

John Kavanaugh

  • Karma: +0/-0
J, thanks. Perfect amount of photos coupled with tight writing. I look forward to more.

Scott Warren

  • Karma: +0/-0
Nice work JB. Thanks for posting. Some great pics of the holes and features that make the course special.

I get excited looking at pics of Pasatiempo, great memories of my sole round there. Must get back sometime, as a priority.

Mike Sweeney

China please!

Malcolm Mckinnon

  • Karma: +0/-0
Fantastic, thanks!

Whomever allowed the cart pathways to be constructed should be shot!

John Cowden

  • Karma: +0/-0
Blame it on the times, the play and the membership, MM.  Doak despised them when commencing the restoration pre-Pacific Dunes, but he and Jim Urbina did as good a job as one could in placing them on the existing/restored track.  The membership would wish them gone, but reliance on public play, and the public's demand for carts, requires them.   At least you can't drive them in the barrancas.

Kyle Casella

  • Karma: +0/-0
Something that is interesting about Pasa, at least from growing up in the Bay Area, is the lack of recognition it gets in relation to other courses that stretch between Monterey and San Francisco. Very few people appreciate what is there. I can't remember a lot of people jumping to go play there (even from the South Bay). It is a little bit pricey but they always have specials. I can't believe more people don't play there. It's one of my favorite courses.

Thomas Dai

  • Karma: +0/-0
I've long wanted to see some details and photos of this course so thank you for sharing this with us.

Seems like a lot of trees, some individuals, some in clumps. Was this always the case? Just curious.

atb

Bob_Huntley

  • Karma: +0/-0
JB,

I have played Pasatiempo a few times and read a great deal about the course, its history and seen many a photograph. The latter should be sent to the Club and used in their promotions, I have yet to have seen better.

Welcome to  the nut house.

Bob
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 12:44:01 PM by Bob_Huntley »

BShannon

"The third (235/175) plays back uphill some 40 feet and must play as one of the longest par-3s in the world."

Couldn't agree more. Standing on that back tee, it feels like that green is a mile away.

Pasatiempo is a special place and one of my favorite tracks. Great pictures and writeup, JB!

JBovay

  • Karma: +0/-0
Thomas,

In the early days, Pasatiempo had very few trees, as the historical photos linked below demonstrate. Perhaps others can fill in the details about when and why so many were planted later.

http://www.pasatiempo.com/photographs

Bob and others,

Thanks so much for the strong praise. I hope I have not outdone myself with this first batch of photos. See the link above for the club's current promotional photos.

JB

Scott Warren

  • Karma: +0/-0
What I noticed the most in the pics was how different the native grass is in spring than in late summer:

Expected there to be seasonal variety, but not this great.


Full set of pics at: http://www.golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,53352.0.html
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 09:14:50 PM by Scott Warren »

JBovay

  • Karma: +0/-0
Scott,

I fully agree with you. I reviewed your photos shortly before my round there, and I was astonished at how lush Pasatiempo was the day I played compared with the day you played, especially given that California is suffering an extreme drought this year.

JB

JBovay

  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: Around the world in 38 days: snapshots of/on golf in China
« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2014, 10:29:43 AM »
As I mentioned in the introductory post(s) to this thread, I went to China to visit family, not to play golf. What I write here is therefore an extremely limited perspective--a snapshot--on the state of the game in an enormous and diverse country.

For some context: Tianjin, my wife's hometown, is the port city nearest to Beijing, and the river that flows through Tianjin to the sea used to be the Huang/Yellow River, which has since changed course. (This is relevant for golf course architecture in the region in that the area is completely flat as far as the eye can tell, from the centuries of alluvial soil deposits.) An important treaty port during the Opium Wars, the city is today experiencing tremendous growth, mostly from the influx of migrant workers from other provinces. Income growth and population growth are together driving up the price of real estate (as in other parts of China), so that an acre of farmland can now be converted into $20 million (U.S.) worth of condos. Such construction projects are visible nearly everywhere one looks.

This is mainland, northern China, and economic liberalization and foreign investment have happened more gradually there than in other parts of China where prominent golf resorts have been developed in the past 20 years. But whether or not a moratorium on new golf course construction is being enforced with any effectiveness, the extremely high cost of real estate in Tianjin and all over China will certainly have major effects on golf course architecture in the country for years to come.

First, the price of real estate means that golf will remain incredibly expensive, as golf course owners will need to charge high greens fees to recoup the costs of the land. I expect that golfers (or prospective golfers) will, in turn, demand golf courses that are visually impressive in the waterfalls and green-grass sense, which will of course translate into higher maintenance costs and still-higher greens fees. (Also, don't forget that water is expensive in China.)

Compounding the issue from an architectural perspective is that developers will want to incorporate more of these visual features to sell more condominiums, too. Advertisements for golf-course housing developments are everywhere in this part of China--at the airport, on the Beijing subway, in restaurants and shopping malls, and it's clear that some entrepreneurs see a huge opportunity for growth of the game in China. So does the PGA Tour: the Chinese equivalent of ESPN2 had live final-round coverage of at least one PGA Tour China event during my stay, as well as a lengthy highlight show (at least an hour, with few if any commercials) of the tour stop at Quail Hollow. Presumably, these are both weekly TV deals.

Regulations, condominiums, and TV contracts aside, the truly limiting factor in the growth of golf in China, for at least another decade, will be demand. The Economist reported recently that only about 2% of urban Chinese households--meaning 1% of all Chinese households--have annual incomes of at least 230,000 yuan (equivalent to $40,000 U.S. in exchange rate terms). While the cost of living in China is generally lower than in the U.S., U.K., or Australia, golf is much more expensive, if the two courses I checked out are at all representative.

The reasons for the high price of playing golf in this part of China are discussed above, but one other factor that might be at play is the kind of cachet a golf course and its customers might gain by charging/paying high greens fees. That, by charging high greens fees, a course might improve its perception and actually be able to draw in more traffic. Maybe. Does anyone have any solid evidence of this kind of thing happening in certain markets or countries?

Again, I only spent a little bit of time in China this year. Dan Washburn has a book coming out in a few weeks called The Forbidden Game (http://danwashburn.com/forbiddengame/) that should provide a comprehensive look at the state of golf in China right now. Several members of this discussion group have spent more time in China than I have, and even built courses over there. I wish them all the best in their future work there, and hope that the challenges I have described in building good courses begin to subside soon.

As for the golf courses I actually saw on the trip: I happened to get in touch with a guy I used to play junior golf with who's now working in the area, and we played with a friend of his at a course called Binhai Lake, which hosted the China Open in 2012 and 2013. It's advertised as a Pete Dye design, but Curley-Schmidt did the work. An hour west of the city proper, near the port area, the course is built in the middle of a salt marsh dozens of square miles in area on material excavated to construct the eponymous lake. This lake (also very large) borders 10 of the holes, and the setting could be spectacular if the skies and the water were both clear. Of course, the use of such a water body is a kind of double-edged sword in golf course construction. Most of the hole corridors are fairly far from the edge of the lake, presumably to make the course more playable in high winds and for beginners, which was great foresight on the part of its architects. However, on these holes, the lake serves only to improve visual appeal and as a hazard that penalizes horrible shots. Several other holes do include cape elements or otherwise bring water into play as a hazard to be negotiated if aggressive, which are welcome strategic design elements. All in all, this is a good golf course, fair, varied (given that it's on a flat and bleak site), and fun to play, but not one that I recommend anyone make special effort to play, so I will keep comments specific to this course to a minimum.

The second hole involves an Alps-like feature obscuring the green on the first and second shots, and the rear half of the green cants away from the fairway. (The green is behind one of the mounds on the left.)



Many holes feature grass-faced bunkers that for some reason have sleepers in their rear (away from the hole) faces. Please forgive my ignorance, but is there any reason for building bunkers this way other than aesthetics, i.e. photo ops?



Fishermen near the seventh tee.



This picture of the par-5 15th kind of sums up everything:



In the foreground, a Church Pews-style bunker guards the left side of the landing area. In the background, before the high-rises under construction, you can see the reeds that border one arm of the large lake. Houses bordering the golf course are on the left. In front of the houses, in the yellow jumpsuits, are two of our female, college-student caddies, who have driven the carts ahead and parked them on the path. (Caddies are evidently mandatory in China, and they will ride on the back of the cart as the player drives it. If the course has a cart-path-only rule, they'll then carry six clubs to the fairway for you.) This is actually one of the more interesting holes on the course: it's short enough that a well-hit drive will offer the option of taking on the water by going for the green in two, or laying up to face a wedge shot from an uneven lie.

Later in the trip, my wife and I drove by another golf course a couple of miles from my in-laws' place. We passed on the opportunity to play it, knowing that there were better things to do with our time in China and with $125 apiece than play golf on a course where the dominant view was of two enormous power plant stacks. I have to admit that the shaping was well done (on the holes I could see from the entrance road), with natural-looking contours on the completely flat site instead of the typical mounds that line fairways on so many modern courses. However, the conditioning of the course was significantly worse than you would find at most U.S. courses with half that price tag, and however good the design might have been, I have no regrets that we saved our money for other things that day.

Personally, although I enjoyed my round there this spring, I don't think I would have taken up golf if the experience I had at Binhai Lake was the best golf experience available to me as a child. Small wonder that on a Sunday, I didn't see a single junior golfer, nor (as I recall) any women players there. I fell in golf at a very young age because it gave me a chance to spend time walking around outside with my dad, in one of the best natural landscapes in our area. I think my dad, in turn, took up the game for exactly the same reason. With carts and caddies and smog and lakes in play on 14 holes, it just wouldn't have been the same game for me at age 5 or 10 or 15. Surely, Binhai Lake has more interesting architecture than the course I grew up on, but the environment and (human and physical) atmosphere matter, too.

Golf will continue to grow in China as incomes continue to rise, but it won't be the same game that almost all of us came to love. I can only speculate as to the reasons more Chinese will decide to take up such an expensive hobby. Hopefully, as they do, the market for great courses in China will begin to emerge. Some visionaries will surely find unremarkable tracts of land and transform them into compelling golf courses, and even find great land and have the knowhow to turn them into something really special, something that can be economically viable long after the condos are sold. Again, I wish everyone working there or hoping to work there good luck in balancing all of these considerations and challenges.

Tom_Doak

  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: Around the world in 38 days: snapshots of/on golf in China
« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2014, 05:53:05 PM »
J:  Thanks for your report on golf in China.  I think you've got many pieces of it right, although as you say, your familiarity with the big picture is somewhat limited in scope.

I especially enjoyed the picture of the Church Pew bunker.  A few days ago I was speaking to someone about a big project being built in Tianjin right now, where they have paid 27 former major champions to each provide input on one golf hole.  A couple of them had won at Oakmont, so they were going to build Church Pew bunkers on those holes, but the golf architect(s) building the project overruled that on the grounds that "There are already way too many Church Pew bunkers in China."  :)

You are right that the cost of real estate will keep golf expensive around the big cities, and that is a real barrier to the game's growth.

P.S.  No need to worry that golf course advertisements will cause the Chinese clients to want photogenic features.  There are apparently no rules on false advertising there.  Two of the golf course ads I saw had photoshopped Ballybunion to represent some new project near the sea in Tianjin.

JBovay

  • Karma: +0/-0
I skip ahead in my itinerary to provide some discussion before next week's Scottish Open.

Royal Aberdeen, the 6th oldest golf club in the world, was a late addition to our itinerary, an add-on to justify the trip to Cruden Bay from St. Andrews. It should have been a higher priority.

My father and I had the first tee time of the day, played through light fog, and the Balgownie Links was absolutely magical. In preparation for the Scottish Open, the rough was thick and the fairways narrow. This has surely been done to compensate for the flattish greens and modest yardage (6885 from the tips, likely a par 70 for the pros). Critics have called Balgownie's outward nine, played northward through tremendous dunes, one of the world's best front nines. I say that if the back nine were as strong as the front, Balgownie would be a contender for the world's most beautiful and (tee-to-green) challenging course.

Martin Hawtree has been retained by the club in recent years to strengthen the inward nine (which is 200 yards shorter than the front, and played above the dunes on flatter ground and rework some of the greens and surrounds. More work is scheduled on four greens this fall. I hesitate to guess about the changes he's made, except for the 15th green: redone in 2011, according to the yardage book, I much prefer the unusual look of the bunker seen in Ran's review to the homogenized sod-faced bunkers that would easily fit in at Trump International up the road (from the photos I've seen):



Yardages are given from the tips (6885) and from the yellow tees (6216, par 71).

The first hole at Royal Aberdeen (409/399) plays downhill from the back porch of the clubhouse toward the ocean, with the green perched in the dunes just over a ridge from the beach. Bunkers pinch the landing area from about 250 to 280 yards from the back tee. Shots landing well short of the green will leave the player far below the green, again a consequence of the green's position in the dunes.

View from the first tee:



Short of the first green:



Another view, from the 18th tee:



The second (558/512) is the strongest of the par 5s, turning north and paralleling the beach as the following 5 holes will do. One captivating thing about Balgownie to me, as a first-time player, was the ambiguity about where to play one's tee ball. My father and I stood silently on several tee boxes on the outward side for a minute or so (there was nobody teeing off behind us for another hour), just taking in the beauty and drama of the setting and trying to figure out the puzzle of how to play the holes. The fairways are wrapped through the dunes, and it's often unclear where the edge of the rough lies. Here, for instance, a drive over the left-hand dune worked just fine.



For the Open, they've narrowed the second fairway to just a few yards across from about 150 yards and in:



Perhaps some of the rough will have been cut back by now. This fellow was trimming a mower's width off the rough to the right of the 12th just after we played it:



The third (240/210) is another strong hole, a long par three with a tee shot that feels very similar to that on the second hole:



... and the fourth tee shot (464/377) presents a similar thrill again:



This view from behind the fifth green--again, note the typical flatness--gives a bit more indication of the terrain over which the outward nine plays.



I expect that the 6th (491/470) will play as a par 4 for the Open, and the fairway hazards that come into play for duffers like me are radically different from what the pros will see. The fairway drops off sharply about 250 yards from the back tee, leaving a blind landing area. But rather than worrying about an uneven lie on that slope, the pros will need to be mindful of a left-hand fairway bunker about 300 yards from the tee.

The eighth (147/139) breaks the stretch of northward-facing holes, a short hole with a long and narrow green that weaves up the hill between 10 pot bunkers. I have to share this photograph showing my divot after the best shot I've holed in ages:



The ninth (465/436) is a sharp dogleg-right up the hill, and players must gauge how much of the dunescape to cut off with their tee balls. Thus, one of the hardest nine holes in golf concludes with what I think is its most testing par 4. Here's a view of the fairway from the 8th tee:



The fun continues with a completely blind drive at the 10th (354/338), followed by an approach over a burn to a green that, like the first, is significantly raised above the area short of it. Additional blind drives follow at the 13th (436/366; only blind if you can carry it 275 up the hill from the back tee) and especially at the 15th (374/331), where the best we could do was aim between patches of long grass on the horizon. The 14th (441/382) is reminiscent of the 13th at North Berwick, with a severely eroded dyke cutting across the fairway about 10 yards short of the green:



The inward nine is certainly a good set of golf holes, but a letdown compared with the first nine. The course closes particularly weakly, and it's a shame for TV viewers and fans that coverage will not feature the most impressive holes on the course. Surely this makes Royal Aberdeen a much better venue for match play events.

Balgownie was a tremendous joy to play and a surprisingly excellent course. (I expected a good course, and a tough one, but not that it would be one of my favorites on the trip and so magnificently beautiful.) If you don't want to play it (again) after seeing these photos, then I haven't yet learned enough about photographing golf courses. In addition, I should say that Royal Aberdeen is better than the sum of its parts. There's just something about playing for two hours among those magnificent dunes that I can't capture with photos or descriptions of the individual holes. Its obvious weaknesses are its flattish greens, but playing correctly from tee to green is such an accomplishment that adding undulation to the greens, particularly on the front nine, would just be punishment and diminish the thrill of the holes.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2014, 09:35:21 PM by JBovay »

Jason Topp

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I did not see the Pasatiempo photos when they first appeared.  I love the pictures that show two holes at once.  Very unique and representative of the experience of playing there.

John Crowley

  • Karma: +0/-0
Walking through the dunes of the outward nine at RA can be an ethereal experience.
That may be why RA is greater than the sum of it's parts.

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