The magnitude of my stupidity never ceases to amaze. Heading to Scotland, I thought that Askernish was a tribute course to Old Tom Morris. I was expecting quaint features and maybe even some tape, ala Westward Ho!, to keep grazing animals off the putting surface. The first five holes lived up to those romantic expectations, highlighted by the super interior contours of the 2nd green and a great pulpit green complex at the fourth.
At six where the tee is situated on top of the dune things begin to get decidedly woollier. Here is the view looking north:
The white caps signify a bit of Scottish breeze. Nae wind, nae golf!The seventh tee is even higher than the sixth and … all hell begins to break loose from there forward to 16. Everything you might hope for is encountered: breathtaking views, majestic landforms, holes plunging into and out of valleys, a punchbowl green, greens that run from front to back, a long par three green perched on the side of the cliff, and a genuine multi-dimensional three shotter that would make MacKenzie proud.
The 195 yard 11th was a two iron the first day and an eight iron (!) the next. 
A three shot version of MacKenzie's Lido hole roars to life at Askernish’s 12th. Chris Buie touched up the red flag so that you can get a sense of where the green is located. The green races away toward the rear. 
An architect is afforded latitude when working in sand; a punchbowl green such as the 15th above becomes a viable option. After the round, I wrote in the guest book something like Raw … Authentic … Wonderful, whose first letters I now see happen to spell raw. Anyway, the caliber of the holes from 6 to 16 exceeded all my expectations because there are truly some supreme holes, as good as anywhere. I am glad the hickories were back home because it was a battle royale in 40 mph winds - I needed all I could get my hands on and then some!
The course that I saw and played was not built in the 1890s. There was a story here bigger than that. Upon returning home, I contacted the Askernish Chairman Ralph Thompson and golf course architect Martin Ebert to learn more. The Q & A with them represents the July Feature Interview. As most of the questions are architectural in nature, Martin fielded them. Options abounded as the land was so good. Huge kudos to Martin for steering the final design into the well balanced course that exists today. As a show of his love for the project, Martin accepted what Old Tom was paid - ten shillings a hole!
What Martin and team accomplished is the Holy Grail of minimalism. The site possessed the two key components: great landforms and sandy soil. But it is still up to the architect to make it happen. I look at a green like the all-universe 9th and think naively, ‘What a find - that was easy -!’ I then read Martin’s response and start to appreciate that's just the beginning. Getting the fairway lines to then match to the angle of the green takes due consideration.
Some people think that Trump International Links is polarizing, well it's got nothing on Askernish Golf Club! In fact, I could easily see a certain sect of golfers proclaiming Askernish as their favorite golf experience in the world, despite that there are only four bunkers and its greens that stimp at 7 or less. Those same people would love Westward Ho!, Brancaster, Brora and another five courses that only Sean Arble knows
. In fact, I imagine that some visitors might fly to Scotland and just camp out solely at Askernish. It makes other places look unnatural, overly cared for, and pretentious. Martin redefines minimalism and makes most minimalists look like maximalists. Doak and he had a healthy conversation about whether any more than four bunkers were required – that’s off the charts, neat stuff.
This is what golf was a century ago: A quick stop to pay a reasonable green fee (it is 50£, I think) and then off to the first tee without muss or fuss. Neither Ralph nor Martin have gotten rich from this undertaking. Their reward comes from offering the world golf at its core value - manufactured shots from awkward lies through the wind to greens of all shapes and sizes. That allure hasn't diminished one iota and it is wonderful to be freshly reminded of the fact. For gosh sakes, find great land and keep the game simple!
The best way to thank Ralph and Martin and all the volunteers for making this happen is to go there - you won't be disappointed. In fact, you'll come back with a renewed appreciation for several things, including the art of gently working with the land as exemplified here.
Best,
Ran
PS Martin won't be fielding questions tomorrow - he is refereeing Sir Nick, Tom and Freddie!
