Tom
Yes, the Civil War was brewing when I was there in 1989(?) - so before the course. Poverty, filth and disease in Nepal was unreal. I did hard travel beforehand bumming through Indonesia (very difficult traveling the way locals do - boat and bus) and Thai jungles, but it didn't prepare me for Nepal - I was in shock and became very, very ill. After a month or so of bumming around, I couldn't believe how wealthy India seemed by comparison. One funny thing, around all the restaurants in Kathmandu, water buffalo was sold as beef (those clever Nepalese - tee hee), obviously very much on the hush-hush because beef was a no-no for eating. I went on a crusade ordering beef everywhere I went. Needless to say, restaurant owners were more true to their religion than to their customers.
I am still amazed at the idea of a $50 course even now nowhere near Kathmandu. That must be a couple of months wages for the average Nepali.
Ciao