Island hopping in Scotland.

[Tony_Muldoon]

Next summer we are talking about taking a spare week to tour some of the Scottish Islands.

I have the normal wish list course in my sights but I would appreciate some input into planning a trip as it’s a part of Scotland I’ve not seen, Apart from Oban which was great and I would happily go back to start from there?

Firstly it’s likely to be in August so any events to tie in with would be great. Highland Games?

Secondly experience shows that my wife has a rare allure for midge’s/mossie’s/no see um’s. Basically anything that flies and bites, loves her.  Thanks to the kind and wise suggestion of Mr Goodale to stick to the East coast we’ve enjoyed holidays in Dornoch, St Andrews and North Berwick and she’s survived. 
So the first questions are    -   is August a relatively'safe' time if we avoid dusk outdoors?
-   Are any of the Islands worse than any of the others for “bittie things”?

We have about 6 or 7 days and I don’t want to log up 1000miles. In fact moving on every second day is in many ways preferable.  Also if this is a success then it’s something we’ll do again so I don’t need to see everything, just do one area well.

So far I have thought about

 Ferry: Ardrossan to Brodick, Isle of Arran stay 2 days (where?). Play Shiskine (12 holes) and Machrie.

Ferry :South Nevin to Claanaig, Kintyre Peninsular. Presumably stay Campbeltown. Play Machrihanish (both) Allow 2 days.

(Of course the above could be reversed and done at the end of a loop from Oban?


Where next and what else to fit in?
 Likes
Food and wine,
Coastal walks
Swimming/ snorkelling and bodyboarding
Horse ride on a beach?
Spa for wife for at least one day.
Would love to play some 9 holers where I can excuse myself for little over an hour and  not be missed.  Suggestions?
Not crazy about Scotch so will pass on the breweries if it means missing one of the above (I accept it might rain, so they are a possibility).


Finally just in case this turns out to be a one off, are we seeing the best or close to the best that the Islands have to offer?
 Leave Shiskine, Machrie and Machrihannish for a specialised golf trip (my wife doesn’t play)?

Thoughts please.

[David_Tepper]

Tony M. -

Speaking of Scottish islands, have you ever seen the movie "Whisky Galore!" (aka "Tight Little Island")? I believe it was filmed on the island of Barra in the late 1940's. A true classic.

DT 

[Tony_Muldoon]

Too long since.


But thanks for the riminder, David. Will get a copy for someone's stocking.

[Jud_T]

No Askernish? I here the fishing is quite good in South Uist...

[Mark Pearce]

Tony,

I'll have a word with Lorna, who is a big fan of the islands and has done plenty of island hopping.  You may well be pushing things expecting to find a spa.  I don't think the Outer Hebrides are as bad for midges as the west coast of the mainland and the inner islands but August is about as bad a month for insects as you could choose.

[Niall C]

Tony

There's a guy who I think is a member at Hopeman near Elgin who published a book last year called I think "Golf on the Rocks" where he goes on trip round all the island courses of Scotland in memory of his dad or soemthing like that. Even though I think I've got two copies I've still not finished the book as recollections of times past with his late father playing golf isn't quite my thing but he does I believe deal with the courses quite well, giving a plan of each and contact details (I think) and maybe even travel details. You're welcome to have my other copy.

Niall

[Rich Goodale]

Tony, As Mrs. Mark says, August berry berry bad for midgies on the West Coast (apologies for the Chico Escuela routine....).  However, if you stick to Arran and Kintyre (just pretend that the latter is an island) I think you'll be OK.  In any case, that is more than enough territory to cover in a week, and the only spa that side of Glasgow is on Arran at the Auchranie Hotel.  Lots of golf on Arran in addition to Shiskine and also on Kyntrye in additional to Machrihanish.  Lots of beautiful scenery and other things to do in both places, particularly hil walking and whisky tasting (don't miss Springbank for any reason!).

Rich

[John Chilver-Stainer]

Tony,

Are you confusing Machrie in Arran with, „The Machrie“ in Islay?
Machrie in Arran is not worth a  special visit

Arran is a terrific place, midges come out when it rains and in the evening – no escaping them.

Apart from Shiskine, visit Brodick G.C., a links course with some parkland holes and also visit Sannox G.C., may favourite quirky 9-Hole golf course, where I learnt to play with my grandfather’s hickories.

Here’s my suggestion

DAY 1 car to Ardossan-Brodick, book in at Blackwaterfoot and play Shiskine that day.

DAY 2 play Brodick in the morning, then go up to Corrie and book into a BnB and play Sannox in the late afternoon. Have a walk along the beach at Sannox Point

DAY 3 head off in the direction Lochranza and maybe do some a walking on the pass and spot the birds of  prey
Take the ferry from  Lochranza to Claonaig and head off to the Mull of Kintyre, check into a BnB at Machrihanish (far better place than Campbeltown) and see you have enough time to play Machrihanish.

DAY 4 Play Machrihanish Dunes in the morning.
After lunch head off to catch the ferry Kennacraig-Port Ellen to Islay.

Book into a BnB anywhere on the Island,
There’s usually a good scene going on at the Hotel at Port Charlotte (local music).

DAY 5 Play The Machrie (the highlight) and after explore the Island

DAY 6 Give your wife a treat and take the ferry Port Askaig to Jura (cheap and quick), do some exploring and stay in Craighouse overnight. A magic spot.

DAY 7 Return journey ferry Jura-Port Askaig then the ferry Port Askaig to Kennacraig and the drive via Tarbet, Lochgilphead and Inveraray , and rather than take the Helensburgh Dunbarton road, I prefer taking the pass over to the Loch Lomond road.
Then make your way down to Glasgow, and have a quick look at the city of culture, before returning to Bonnie Ingerlund.  

I’m not sure if anything resembling a Spa exists in the Western Isles, the closest you’ll get is jumping into a peaty burn which is more spartan than spa.

Have fun – even if you don’t play any golf you’ll love this part of Scotland.

[Adam Lawrence]

Based on quite a lot of mooching around the islands, Skye is the absolute best, but it doesn't have golf. I also am not a whisky drinker, but her ladyship is, and so we've done quite a lot of distillery tours. Talisker and Springbank have been the best of all.

Top five things to do in the islands (non-golf):

* Callanish standing stones on Lewis
* Dinner (and overnight if they have room and the price isn't too crazy) at Three Chimneys on Skye
* Boat trip from Elgol to Loch Coruisk on Skye
* Iona
* Wildlife tour on Mull

[Chris Buie]

Well, if you take Adam's advice on a wildlife tour of Mull you can stop by Loch Buie. It has it's own ancient version of Stonehenge at the foot of Ben (ie. Mount) Buie. 

[James Boon]

Tony,

Though I've travelled to much of Scotland, I've never been to the west coast in mid summer, because of the wee flying beasties! We've tended to either go to the Highlands in early May, the Inner or Outer Hebrides in late September, or the east coast at any time, and because of that we've never had trouble with the midges. Having said that I believe Mark is right in that the midges aren't so bad(relatively speaking) on the Outer Hebrides in mid summer.

If I was you, I would leave the Arran, Kintyre, Islay trip for a specific golfing trip or another time and blood yourselves on either Mull, The Outer Hebrides or Skye.

Mull is beautiful! If you are there, a trip to Iona is not to be missed (and a nice quirky little course there which I've yet to play). There are a couple of wildlife tours run on the island. If you book one early in a trip, you may not see everything you are hoping for but you will know what to look for and where (we didn't see golden eagles on the tour but driving past one of the spots we had stopped at on the tour and low and behold, golden eagles. Also we drove past a spot we had been watching otters from afar only to see one just off the road, that wandered past us within about 10yards as we stood by the car!) Tobermory is a nice little town. Fantastic food at the Bellachroy in Dervaig, Calgary bay is just stunning, especially at dusk. Hopefully that's enough to wet your appetite?

The Outer Hebrides are larger and there is more to cover, but as Adam says Callanish stone circle is fantastic (and will make Chris' Lochbuie Stone Circle look a little... small  ) Dun Carloway Broch is worth seeing, as is Gearannan where they have restored blackhouse, even a couple available for self catering. The one we stayed in was excellent. Head out to Uig, for a stunning stretch of white sand bay, and also where the famous Norse chess set was found. Harris Golf Club looks fun also. If you then head south to North Uist you will find a great smokery where they use peat (the salmon is delicous) and the restaurant at Langass Lodge is very good. Plenty of other stuff to mention for the Western isles, but I'll just sum up by saying... ASKERNISH!

Oh, at that time of the year, you should be able to get out to St Kilda if you are on North Uist!

We drove through Skye on our way to the Harris ferry and it was wet with low cloud so I can't really speak of the island, but its well known as an absolute beauty. Adam sounds like your man for there.

You've said you aren't a fan of whisky and you've proven it by saying you don't want to visit any breweries... rather than distillerys  And not withstanding the fact that Spas are few and far between, there is more than enough to leave that till you return to civilisation. 

Hope that helps, happy to give any further pointers if required.

Cheers,

James

[Colin Macqueen]

And Tony,
If ye get yersel tae Skye here's yer Hieland Gemmes!

Isle Of Skye Highland Games
Date: Wednesday 7th August, 2013
Location: The Lump, Skye
Events: Running, Heavy Weights, Tug-of-war, Solo Piping, Light Field, Highland Dance

Cheers Colin

[Mark Chaplin]

Tony the only way to avoid the midges is to go much earlier in the season. Whilst horrid they are not as bad as Satan's beasts, the sandfly of New Zealand's south west coast.

[Adam Lawrence]

The sandflies left me alone when we were in Fiordland, but they had Lucy for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is - or was - a model set of three of them mounted on the wall, Hilda Ogden duck style (one for Brits only I fear...) in the Milford Sound visitor centre. I have a great photo of her pointing accusingly at them and scowling!

[Tony_Muldoon]

Sadly it would be a mistake to go when the mozzies are out as it would certainly be our last trip there.

Thanks to everyone, I’ve bookmarked this thread and will bring it back in a decade or so when I plan to have more time. PREDICTION!

Anyway I have learnt where 'The Machrie' isn’t and that Scotch from a Brewery is never worth a detour.

I have something like this in mind for that trip.
http://www.martindorey.com/camper-van-coast/

(That will likely be a solo trip or with wife No2, whom I've yet to meet.)

[Mark Chaplin]

Adam - further out of the way is the Stein Inn and Lochbay Seafood a lovely simple restaurant serving good seafood. Kinloch Lodge is a luxury experience with 1* food. At the other end of the spectrum outside Scourie which is seriously north, is the amazing Shorehouse seafood restaurant. Basically a shed serving the freshest possible seafoods.

[Steve Wilson]

Looking for some advice from the amateur or even professional entomologists among us.  What exactly is the state of midges in the islands off Scotland in late June and early July?  I'm planning on starting at Arran and working my way west and north ending up at Asknerish in early July.  Do I need to invest in insect repellent stock, a beekeepers outfit, should I stockpile my own blood for transfusions in the event I get caught in a particularly voracious swarm? 

[Jon Wiggett]

Steve,

at that time the midges shouldn't be too bad. The best way to keep them at bay is to use an Avon product called 'Skin So Soft' which is a moisturiser but works great at keeping the little blighters away.

Jon

[jeffwarne]

Steve,

at that time the midges shouldn't be too bad. The best way to keep them at bay is to use an Avon product called 'Skin So Soft' which is a moisturiser but works great at keeping the little blighters away.

Jon

Who knew you'd use the same defense as the South Carolina. low country
Never noticed a bug problem in Scotland, but then I've never had the chance to go in July/August, although I'm willing to risk it

[Rich Goodale]

Sadly it would be a mistake to go when the mozzies are out as it would certainly be our last trip there.

Thanks to everyone, I’ve bookmarked this thread and will bring it back in a decade or so when I plan to have more time. PREDICTION!

Anyway I have learnt where 'The Machrie' isn’t and that Scotch from a Brewery is never worth a detour.

I have something like this in mind for that trip.
http://www.martindorey.com/camper-van-coast/

(That will likely be a solo trip or with wife No2, whom I've yet to meet.)

Don't give up yet Tony!

Fuggedaboot Arran and Kintyre and go straight to the Kylesku Hotel.  Scenery not to believed, food of a very high standard, and bedrooms where you know if you've had too much vino or whisky since the floors slope at 5 degrees and stimp at 11.5....

Drive 2 hours north to play Durness and visit the place that John Lennon spent his childhood holidays.  Drive only 10 miles from Kylesku and you might just be able to find Alistair MacKenzie's grave, if you look hard enough...

Rich

[Adam Lawrence]

Steve,

at that time the midges shouldn't be too bad. The best way to keep them at bay is to use an Avon product called 'Skin So Soft' which is a moisturiser but works great at keeping the little blighters away.

Jon

Who knew you'd use the same defense as the South Carolina. low country
Never noticed a bug problem in Scotland, but then I've never had the chance to go in July/August, although I'm willing to risk it

Jeff, the midges are generally not so bad where the golfers go. It's if you head to the West Highlands, or the inner isles, which are essentially hillwalking destinations, that you come across Culicoides impunctatus at its worst. Horrible creatures. They can't fly in high wind though, so you pray for a good breeze.

Skin So Soft works for some, not for others, unfortunately. The only truly reliable solution is staying away in high summer, or alternatively 100 per cent DEET (but frankly I prefer to risk the midges than to put that poison on my skin...)

[Steve Wilson]

Jon.

Thanks for the tip.  I took your advice and looked up Skin So Soft and discovered they also market an insect repellant by the same name as they are not allowed to claim repellant properties for the moisturizer.  You were referencing the moisturizer, correct?  There's nothing to keep me from using both and I wll as it's been my experience that anything that bites zeroes in on me.
Fortunately it's available on line (what isn't) so I won't have to wait for the Avon Lady to ring my doorbell.

[Jud_T]

Rich,

What would be your ideal pure golfing itinerary for the islands and what time of year?

[Rich Goodale]

Rich,

What would be your ideal pure golfing itinerary for the islands and what time of year?

Jud

There is no such thing, IMVHO.  The islands of Scotland are fantastic places, full of beauty and interesting nooks and crannies, but mostly bereft of golf, which is possibly why I have spent so little time on those wee beasties!  From what I do know, Shiskine on Arran is a Crown Prince of Quirk, but the rest of the courses there can be seen in many places east of Cape Cod, most of which don't require a ferry ride to get there.  Skye has a soft place in my heart as the only time I visited there coincided with the only three consecutive days of sunshine in the island's history, but the golf is basically non-existent.  Of the majority of islands that I have never set foot upon, the only ones I would consider going to are: Islay (with the Machrie and some seriously good malt whisky); whereverthehell Askernish is; and Gigha, if only because nobody I know has ever been there, much less played the 9-holer purported to reside there.  If you really want a pure golfing itinerary for the wee islands in close proximity to Scotland, go to Ireland.  I don't think that there are any midgies (or snakes) there....

Rich

[Adam Lawrence]

Rich,

What would be your ideal pure golfing itinerary for the islands and what time of year?

Jud

There is no such thing, IMVHO.  The islands of Scotland are fantastic places, full of beauty and interesting nooks and crannies, but mostly bereft of golf, which is possibly why I have spent so little time on those wee beasties!  From what I do know, Shiskine on Arran is a Crown Prince of Quirk, but the rest of the courses there can be seen in many places east of Cape Cod, most of which don't require a ferry ride to get there.  Skye has a soft place in my heart as the only time I visited there coincided with the only three consecutive days of sunshine in the island's history, but the golf is basically non-existent.  Of the majority of islands that I have never set foot upon, the only ones I would consider going to are: Islay (with the Machrie and some seriously good malt whisky); whereverthehell Askernish is; and Gigha, if only because nobody I know has ever been there, much less played the 9-holer purported to reside there.  If you really want a pure golfing itinerary for the wee islands in close proximity to Scotland, go to Ireland.  I don't think that there are any midgies (or snakes) there....

Rich

I've been to Gigha, just for half a day while staying in Kintyre with the wife. Had been playing Machrihanish most mornings, so didn't risk any more brownie points by trying to play the course there, but it looks fun in a basic, old fashioned sort of way. The island is beautiful and the Achamore gardens are worth seeing.

If you count Kintyre as an island, which you might as well, since it has whisky, golf and takes a long time to get to, then the must sees golf-wise in the Hebrides, from north to south are:

Harris - Scarista - beautiful, open nine hole links on western side of island, doesn't have Askernish style dunes so will be even more exposed to the wind blasting in from Newfoundland.

South Uist - Askernish

Islay - Machrie

Kintyre - Machrihanish, Mach Dunes, Dunaverty

Arran - Shiskine.


Note it is a bloody long way from the top of Lewis to the bottom of Kintyre. I would never attempt to do the whole Hebrides as part of one trip. The southern islands and Kintyre fit well into an itinerary that includes Ayrshire, the northern and Outer Isles are really somewhere you have to go on their own, unless planning a flying visit to Askernish courtesy of Loganair.

Also, on the mainland, but on the Road to the Isles of song and sufficiently far from any other golfing itinerary to really only make sense in the context of a Hebridean trip, I would like to play Traigh http://www.traighgolf.co.uk/, which I've seen from the road to Mallaig. Can't speak to the golf, but it's a gorgeous spot.

Rich is partly right about the weather. It does rain a lot in the Western Isles. Springtime often brings good conditions though, I have had good luck in late May. Get the wrong day, though, and you will learn exactly why the Scots invented whisky!

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