In the early 80's I heard the super from Riviera speak about maintaining "double K". Twice a year they would set a flail mower (hammerknife) down to the dirt and "mow" the golf course. This would produce an amazing amount of debris which was swept up and disposed of by the truck load. Then the dirt would be fertilized and watered, and in two weeks the playing surface would be acceptable.
Kikuya is very invasive. If it ajoins the greens it will creep in quickly, then it will have to be edged and pulled by hand. This would have to be done repeatedly throughout the year. If not treated in the above manner it quickly develops a thick mat. I've seen it 6-10 inches above the soil surface. Mowers will ride above it and cut only the leaves, the runners intertwine and get thicker. Mowers, "marcel" or chatter and leave a washboard cut.
It will also go dormant after a good frost, leaving a yellow/brown look. It is drought tolerant, requires little fertilizer, and is fairly pest resistant, but can be severely damaged by white grubs.
When deciding to undertake a ryegrass conversion on my kikuya fairways, I spoke with Paul Ramina, supt. at Riviera last year. He told me that he was having good success maintaining KK using PrimoŽ (plant growth regulator), it thinned the leaves and slowed the accumulation of mat. I am assuming in LA the frosts are not hard enough to force it into dormancy. Perhaps Lynn or Geoff could shed some light on this.
Kikuya eradication is difficult even with all the tools available today. It will regenerate from underground plant parts well below the effective depth of chemical control. A postemergence program must be followed religiously to keep the weed at an acceptable percentage. Ryegrass is the best choice for the conversion because of it's tolerance over the top chemical control.
More than you wanted to know?