Scott
some other points on Windsorgreen, from my observations last weekend.
Firstly, remember that my comments are from a hills course with heavy clay soils, trees and shade in parts (not as treed on the parts where windsorgreen is used) and on a location with similar weather to the Dandenongs in Melbourne - 5 degrees cooler than Adelaide with wetter winters but still with summer drought. These conditions are quite different to those at Bonnie Doon, although I understand there will be a mixture of sand and heavy soils (new holes). Obviously, Sydney weather is completly different to delaide, especially through summer so YMMV.
Windsorgreen has a much finer leaf compared to Santa Ana. It also has more horizontal growth, and in particular less vertical growth. I can't imagine windsorgreen being used in the rough - I can only imagine a ball sitting up on a bit of thick beard. One benefit of windsor's growth style is less frequent mowing is required.
Windsorgreen stays green-ish in winter for longer than Santa Ana, but isn't as deep a green in summer.
Windsorgreen will appear dormant because of its horizontal growth, and can thatch up if inputs (fertiliser and water) are increased in an attempt to see visible, vertical growth. However, it rpovides a sound surface.
Over time, the grass needs scarifying. Our windsor was some 12 years old before getting a good hit, and the roots were literally living in thatch. The grass had gone to a lighter straw colour. A harsh scarify and the colour returned, and the grass gave up divots just like a golf turf should. If you don't see any grains of soil in a divot, then it is time for some scarifying.
Windsor doesn't like shade, and in particular doesn't like the lower soil temperatures associated with winter shade. No couches do, but windsor certainly exhibits this characteristic. It also struggles on the edge of input areas - the grass will be quite weak if there is no irrigation and no rainfall. That might make it easier to manage if you are trying to prevent it from growing into some areas, eg sandy wastes. Less water = less grass.
We haven't used windsor around the greens, but I expect it would be fine there. We have used winsor on tees, sometimes oversown with a bent. It provides a good teeing surface for holes where a driver/3 wood is used, especially given the limited vertical growth. However, if the tee is shaded, the tee won't be healthy.
Thats the main points for me Scott. Good luck. If you can, get the right course supt's to chat together. Climate, soil and shade will make a big difference.
James B