I am lucky enough to get to play Royal Troon for nothing as a member's guest. I am not, therefore, concerned about the green fee which would no doubt alter my appreciation of the course had I to pay it. I can also play there on days when no visitors are allowed which gives a guest an extra sense of privilege.
I like the first three holes as they get play under way quickly, are not intimidating, yet are quite subtle. Miss a green by only a whisker and you may have no chance of getting close to the pin with your recovery. I don't like the 4th or 6th which seem to be rather featureless slogs. I do like the 5th as it takes you onto high dunes with fine views and there is no alternative to a perfectly struck tee shot. You cannot scramble par. The 7th is a glorious hole with great settings for tee and green. I always enjoy my skirmishes with the Postage Stamp whatever my fate. I hate the winter version of the hole with the shot over the left part of the dune to a minute hidden green. I really can't find affection for the 9th. It's dismal setting beside a rubbish dump and a caravan park doesn't help. Additionally I cannot drive far enough to see the green so my second shot is hit-and-hope over the mound which deflects running approaches very unpredictably.
From the medal tee the 10th is a wonderful hole, but it is ghastly played from the winter tee (in similar fashion to the championship tee), blind over the vast sandhill in front. I've not played the 11th from the championship tee, but from the medal tee, from which you can see the complete hole, it is exciting. The 12th seems unlike any other hole on the course, but as I have usually contrived to play it well I like it. The 13th and 15th are similar in demanding perfect driving and an approach shot very likely played from a difficult lie. The short 14th, in between, ought to offer a moment's respite but has enough teeth to bite if you wobble. I have to say that I don't enjoy the 16th. I can't reach the ditch from the tee nowadays, but in the days when I could (from the medal tee) reach it it seemed too unfair on that better than average drive. The remainder of the hole is pedestrian. For what seems such a large target the 17th green is very difficult to hit and hold and to rescue a bogey can be a very good result. I love the 18th - dead straight at the clubhouse and, if you can keep out of the bunkers with your drive, the green is in reach of two shots (even for me) from the members' tees. However, I'm only likely to creep onto the green, so the out-of-bounds through the back is not a consideration.