Dan, I completely agree with you. Most of the most enjoyable round I ever had, I did it without really paying attention to the scorecard. And whenever I play in tournaments, my awareness of the golf course architecture goes down and I am focusing so much on shot after shot.
My hypothesis is that the enjoyment of GCA is inversely proportional to caring about the score. That does not mean that you have to completely disregard scoring and it does not take risk/reward away. In most rounds I still want to score lower, but trying to figure out how to score lower and analyzing the hole over and over again in my mind and in my eyes is more fun and challenging than trying to actually achieve that score.
If you look at the other side of the analysis, where you care about the score and score only as you do in PGA Tour, I don't think those guys want any really interesting GCA when they play. They want something they already know (and know well enough to score well). They don't want any quirks, they don't want any surprises. They advocate some of the worst aspects of GCA (easy bunkers, flat fast greens, soft flat fairways) because those things make it easier for them to score and score is all they care about.
So, if that is true (where scoring is all anyone cares means GCA takes a backseat), shouldn't opposite be true as well?