Naruo Golf Club (photo tour and brief history)

[Rob Miller]

鳴尾ゴルフ倶楽部




Note: the history portion was pieced together and translated from Japanese.  I’m sure I lost something in the translation, so apologies for any inaccuracies.

Note 2: for background read Thomas MacWood’s excellent account of Alison in Japan if you haven’t already.
http://golfclubatlas.com/in-my-opinion/tom-macwood-gliding-past-fuji-ch-alison-in-japan

Note 3: for comparison my Kawana photos are here- http://golfclubatlas.com/forum/index.php/topic,43954.0/


Naruo Golf Club has roots with the group of Scottish and British expats that introduced golf to Japan.  The Kobe Golf Club, the first course in Japan, sits at the peak of Mount Rokko above Kobe.  Since Rokko was covered in snow four months of the year, the man responsible for Kobe Golf Club, Arthur Groom, and a friend, William John Robinson started a six hole golf course called Yokoya Golf Association in 1904.  In 1914, they moved the course to nearby Naruo-hama and started a nine hole course called Nauro Golf Association.  By 1920, membership had dwindled down to just six members and the course had deteriorated so badly that it was unplayable.  W.J. Robinson took control of the course in 1920 and established the Naruo Golf Club.  The humble origins of Naruo begin with Robinson and friends searching through wheat and puddles for the greens of the Naruo-hama course.  Initially three holes were restored.  

By 1924, Nauro Golf Club was extended to 18 holes.  In 1927, a financial crisis hit Japan and Naruo’s patron, the Suzuki store, went bankrupt. They couldn’t maintain 18 holes so it became a nine hole course for the second time.  Three brothers, all members of Nauro, longed to build a true championship course but their dream was postponed by the ’27 economic shock.  Joe E. Crane, Harry C. Crane, and Bertie E. Crane would spend their weekends during that time searching the Kansai area for a good piece of land and eventually discovered the location where the course sits today.  The built the Inagawa course in 1930.  Nauro Golf Club then had two courses, the Inagawa Course which was known as the Mountain Course and the Naruo-hama course, known as the Seaside or Beach course.  H.C. Crane thought that the mountain course needed a famous architect to give it credibility.  

C.H. Alison was in Japan and was invited to make changes to the course.  Alison had already been involved in Tokyo Golf Club, Hirono and Kawana, and Crane asked Allison to remake Naruo.  Alison agreed to take the job and in 1931, he began to make changes.  He stayed one week and remarked that the land and routing was already quite good.  In spite of that, he made changes on sixteen holes.  Most of the construction was finished that year.  In 1936, the course was finished and the Japan Open was held at Naruo.  By that time the course was said to blend with nature and had rightfully gained its fame as one of the the top courses of Japan.  Due to economic and political pressures Nauro-hama was closed in 1939.  Korai grass was in vogue during that time and the Naruo-hama course had korai planted. 1500 tsubo (about 5000 square meters) was moved to the mountain course (the present Naruo Golf Club).  During WWII the course was requisitioned for military use but in 1949 the course was restored to its original condition.  In 1956, a new golf club was established and in 1963, irrigation was added.  Outside of the korai and the addition of irrigation the original dream of the Crane brothers and influence of Alison remains today.  


Playing Naruo

Heading out to the first tee




Nauro is a challenging loop and a difficult course.  I read that the average age of the 700 members of the course are around 70 years old.  Kudos to the members that play and survive this course day after day, year after year.  It could have been the heat and humidity or spending the day negotiating difficult rough and deep bunkers, but by the end of the round my group and the others in the clubhouse enjoying a post-round drink looked drained and defeated.    

Nauro is one of the oldest courses in Japan, but the welcome and the total experience is not markedly different than any other course here.  Like anywhere else in Japan you arrive and check-in, change clothes, break for lunch after nine holes, and take the obligatory post-round communal bath.  The only hint of pedigree is found on the walls of the clubhouse and the Naruo Golf Club logo that is literally everywhere.  Even the coffee creamers carried the logo.  They were pure silver and seem like part of an era passed.  Despite that, there’s no pretention here, no stigma and division in being a visitor or a foreigner.   Naruo is just great golf at a great course.  Very refreshing.


The Naruo Golf Club logo




At the end of the rainy season, the course was green and wet.  A ball struck on the fairway will take a small hop and come to rest and if you are unfortunate enough to stray (you will), the ball is gobbled up very quickly.  This is not the season for firm and fast.  

Alison’s trademark bunkering and well-protected greens are immediately identifiable.  The fairways are narrow and there is not much room for error, but there is always a safe route to the green.  The rough is humbling and easy to find.  

Like Kawana, the greens are korai.  Slow, but true, they take a bit of time to adjust to but after a few holes it wasn’t difficult for us to adapt.  The bunkers were hard and wet but not a surprise given how much it has rained over the past few weeks.  One of my playing partners after taking three or four whacks in a particularly menacing bunker just picked up the ball and walked away.  So much for that samurai spirit.  

Bunkers after the rainy season




Highlight of the round

On the first tee waiting for the first of our group to tee off, I was standing next to the caddy.  His shot was struck well but started fading right….





…suddenly…






“FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH”  





The caddie lets out a full-throated, full fifteen second bellowing Japanese version of ‘fore’.  I’m sure three fairways over people were ducking ready to get hit by a wayward golf ball.   I was standing next to her so it was as painful for me as the poor guy that teed off.  The ball was just a bit right and really no one was in danger so it was mostly unnecessary.  

This became the routine over the course of the round.  A bad tee shot amplified by the caddy screaming a fore bastardization and totally crushing any confidence you might have had and making a bad shot that much worse.  

My second favorite caddy moment was when I hit a great uphill approach that just cleared a particularly menacing bunker.  I looked to the caddy for a little bit a love and her response was just "oh, not a good shot, it's way over the green."  Sure enough, way over.  Thanks.


The walk to the first tee




Automated cart system



Photos and hole-by-hole to follow-

[Rob Miller]

Putting green



Practice range




First hole, par 4, 383 yards




Stepping onto the first tee, the manicured trees and zen-like atmosphere remind you that you are unmistakably playing in Japan.  I'm sure the view and the photos are better when the sun shines, but not this day and not this thread.  Sorry.   

The first is a relatively straightforward opener that favors a drive down the left side. 




Naturally, I went right.  Here's a look from the right side of the fairway









A look back at the first hole

[Rob Miller]

2nd hole, 182 yards




The second is a slightly uphill par 3 that plays 182 from the back tees and 173 from the regular tees.  Trouble to the left, trouble to the right. 









3rd hole, par 4 400 yards





Downhill with a sizable landing area. 




A short approach leads to a challenging uphill shot





4th hole, par 3 207 yards

The members tee isn't quite the challenge of the back tee...








Four large bunkers protect the green. 

 

[Rob Miller]

5th hole, par 4, 394 yards



One of the greatest strengths of Nauro is the utilization of elevation changes. 

A short tee shot leaves a long, blind approach.




Long and right also leaves a challenging second shot-










The look back on the fifth.







6th hole, 433 yards, par 4



It's a bit difficult to show visually but a narrow fairway and thick, difficult rough present a challenge on every hole.







7th hole, 526 yards, par 5

The first of two par fives at par 70 Nauro comes on the seventh-















8th hole, 437 yards, par 4




The eighth is a sharp dogleg left.  I discovered the hard way that the shortcut left is not the option. 




Left gives you no look at the green.




Here is the approach



I'm not particularly a fan of sharp doglegs.  For me, this is Nauro's weakest hole.  Fortunately, there is lunch and something cold to drink not so far away. 






9th, par 4, 358 yards




Aim for the caddy--




The approach






The bunker at the back of the green-




The look back




Don't worry if you stray...




Lunch and a long break waits at the turn.

[Ryan Admussen]

Great pictures, Japan is an amazing country.

Would love to make a return trip with golf included.

Was it difficult to make arrangements at the courses?

[Kevin Pallier]

Automated cart system

Cheers Rob

One quick Q though - could you please explain for the uninitiated like me - more about this ?

[Rob Miller]

Great pictures, Japan is an amazing country.

Would love to make a return trip with golf included.

Was it difficult to make arrangements at the courses?

Ryan- I have been told that if you write well in advance, they are gracious with access. 

It's much easier to golf in post-bubble Japan.  I still hear stories about million dollar memberships and crazy greens fees of the 1980s and early 90s, but those days fortunately are long gone. 

[Rob Miller]

Kevin,

The cart runs on something like a magnetic track throughout the course and basically starts and stops with the press of a button.  It always seemed to me something like an amusement park ride where the kid is steering the car but not really controlling the car.  It's on a set path.  Many courses in Japan have a system like this that is either controlled by the caddy or by the players.  Our caddy would have probably died mid-round if she had to sling a bag. 

The problem is that sometimes your bag is speeding away at the wrong time.  On the par 3 fifteenth our caddy told us to grab a 160 club and went on her way to forecaddy.  We grabbed the club and the cart was set in motion.  By the time we climbed to the tee and realized the tee was at 180 yards and the hole was uphill our clubs (and our caddy) were miles away.  Needless to say no one came close to getting it on the green. 

There are not many courses left in Japan where the caddy actually carries the bag.  Kobe Country Club is one exception, but you are limited to eight clubs.  It's not quite what it used to be though, in the early days of Kobe Country Club, players were carried up the mountain from Kobe to the course in sedan chairs. 

[John Sabino]

Rob - well done, thanks for posting this, although I disagree with you regarding the 8th hole, it was one of my favorites. I thought it offered true risk/reward options and shot placement is of the utmost importance. Can't wait to hear your impression of the 10th hole, I thought it was one of the hardest holes I have played, especially the approach to the green. John

[Rob Miller]

John,

That's interesting that the 8th was one of your favorites.  Placement is definitely key, but it seems like there really is a limited area to get a look at the green.  Looking back at my photo of the 8th tee, I'm still not exactly sure of the ideal line.  It looks like you can take the left side but unless you are 280-300+ off of the tee, then that is not a play.  I'll give it another look next time I play. 

I'll collate and post photos of #10 later today.  That is an outstanding hole requiring a heroic second shot.  It reminded me a little of 11 at Pasatiempo or 8 at Pebble.  I'm sure there are some better examples.

I also really liked the par 3 15th.  Photos to come.

[Jed Peters]

It's posts like this that remind me of why I'm a member of this DG.

Thanks!

[Rob Miller]

10th hole, par 4 476 yards




The tenth is a brilliant and challenging long par 4 that requires a solidly struck tee shot and long second shot over a playable ravine.  This hole decimated our group, the group in front of us and those behind us as well.  The hole plays 476 from the back tees and 463 from the members tees. 









This is the look out after you hit a solid 250 yard drive down the middle of the fairway.  The second shot requires 220 yards with very little mercy short and left and none right. 






This is the view at the edge of the fairway down to the ravine.  It looks tame in the photo but the climb down is a haul.  If you don't land on the fairway short, the rough on the hill gives you a challenging effort to get close.






It's hard to get the scale without someone in the photo but this is down at the bottom.  Play over the bunker ahead and hope... 




In case I didn't make it abundantly clear, I loved this hole. 

[Rob Miller]

11th hole, par 4, 372 yards




After the difficult 10th, the 11th is a relatively short par 4 with an uphill approach.  Off of the tee, left is OB and right is the tenth fairway. 



The approach



12th hole, par 3, 164 yards (159 forward)




The 12th is well-protected medium length par 3.  The safer route is right, or maybe left.  Actually there's trouble on all sides, so better not to miss.




13th hole, 310 yards, par 4

The 13th is a short, but narrow par 4 to a protected green. 



In Japanese they are actually called 'Alison bunkers', the 13th has some excellent examples.







14th hole, par 5, 486 yards

One of only two par fives on the course and another favorite of mine, the tee shot is blind.



There's a chance at going for the green in two, but it requires a perfect position (green is on the right). 




The carry to the green provides the challenge. 

[John Mayhugh]

Thanks for the photos, Rob.

Does the 9th return to the clubhouse, or was the lunch break at a halfway house?

On the tenth, I don't care for the tree on the left side just after you cross the ravine.  Only seems to punish the weaker player who cannot reach the green and tries to bail out to avoid the ravine.

[Kevin Pallier]

Rob

Thanks for the outline of the automatic cart system. I noticed the railway style tracks in your pics (it's hard not to miss them  ) but I suppose what else would one expect from tech. savy Japan ?

The place looks incredibly "lush" is that a seasonal thing ? or a general maintenance practice in your experience throughout Japan ?

[Rob Miller]

John- The ninth nearly comes back to the clubhouse.  A cart meets you after you've played the ninth and takes you up the short hill back to the clubhouse.  Your clubs go off on a different track.  Lunch is in the clubhouse, our break was around 45 minutes. 

Kevin- I'm fairly sure it is seasonal but not sure about Nauro's maintenance practices.  Generally, courses here embrace brown in the winter and do not tend to overwater the rest of the year.  I believe that 'Augusta green' is not as much of an expectation.

[Rob Miller]

Here is the final installment:

15th hole, par 3, 189 yards

The 15th is a difficult par 3 requiring a long carry to a well-bunkered green. 
















Ok, it's not quite Cypress, but the walk through the woods to the 16th was inspiring, not shown well via the shoddy photography. 





16th hole, par 4, 402 yards









17th hole, par 4, 398 yards






18th hole, par 4 456 yards

[Sean_A]

Rob

Thanks for the interesting pictures.  In a strange sort of way, it reminds of a traditional English parkland course which has lost its way a bit with trees.  Sort of leaving the scheme of the original landscape designer.  Do you know if Alison had a tree plan for the course?  I also like how many of the bunkers are set in odd positions - some of which are not blocked a bit by trees.  Are the rollover lips of the bunkers Alison originals?  In any case, I really like that look and have seen it a few times on restored/reworked American courses.  Are the greens quite slopey?  I bet on this hilly site it is quite easy for putts to get away from the player if he isn't paying attention.

Ciao     

[Rob Miller]

Rob

Thanks for the interesting pictures.  In a strange sort of way, it reminds of a traditional English parkland course which has lost its way a bit with trees.  Sort of leaving the scheme of the original landscape designer.  Do you know if Alison had a tree plan for the course?  I also like how many of the bunkers are set in odd positions - some of which are not blocked a bit by trees.  Are the rollover lips of the bunkers Alison originals?  In any case, I really like that look and have seen it a few times on restored/reworked American courses.  Are the greens quite slopey?  I bet on this hilly site it is quite easy for putts to get away from the player if he isn't paying attention.

Ciao     

Sean,

I don't know Alison's original plans for the course, but regarding the trees remember most Japanese courses are carved out of the mountains and Naruo is no exception.  Tight, tree-lined fairways are generally the norm and I've played many that are even much narrower. 

The greens have some interesting contours but I felt that they were fairly simple and straightforward. Generally, they are small so the serious challenge is more getting there then getting home. 

[Chris_Clouser]

Rob,

Just from the photos Naruo looks much more interesting than Hirono.