O.K., here's my Muirfield experience. I would not have played in the first place if my companions hadn't wanted to, but we signed up on the Muirfield website a little less than a year before our 2007 trip from the States to Scotland. Handicap max is 20. My card showed an index of 18 point something, with a home course HC 21 or so. I was concerned. My understanding is that the St. Andrews Old Course, with a higher max, goes by your HC, not your index. In any case, we get to Muirfield and it is cool and pouring rain. Very few golfers are there on that visitors day -- I expect most bailed. The four of us went off No. 1 in consecutive two balls. No one asked to see our HC cards or even asked us our handicaps. My sense was that no one, not even the starters or whatever they were, wanted to be outside.
Toward the end of our two ball matches, with the course nearly empty, our trail group called to our lead group to "wait up and we'll finish together." Out of nowhere, from about 50 yards away, a voice pops up: "No, you start as a two ball, you finish as a two ball." So we did. In spite of my rainsuit, I was soaked. My wool slacks were 99 percent soaked through. Fortunately, I'd brought a change of clothes for lunch. But first, a hot shower. I was the only one in our group to shower, and the others really missed something. Muirfield has the best clubhouse showers I've experienced, by far. If I went back, it would be to take another shower. I have little if any recollection of the course, but I'll never forget the shower room.
As I was heading out of the locker room to lunch, another visiting U.S. golfer was paniced. He missed the dress code, did not know the coat and tie rule for lunch, and had only his rainsuit to wear. "Could I borrow your wool slacks?" he asked me. I explained they were soaked. "Doesn't matter," he said. It was funny, but you had to be there. As it turned out the locker room attendant had a full set of clothes he could borrow for lunch, so Muirfield is apparently prepared for this sort of visitor.
Lunch was a buffet, with tables on three sides of the room, as I recall. First thing I did, or tried to do, was take a survey of the layout just to see what was available -- I had not even picked up a plate. (There was a seated table of four, and the four of us who had just come in.) However, the butler, or whatever you might call him, put a stop to that. He said, "You start here, and then go around this way." So I did.
In the afternoon two of our group, not including me, played one-half of a foursome. They said they encountered no other golfers on the course. The other two of us sat out the rain in our hotel bar in North Berwick.