TEPaul-
Here are just a very few things to consider when moving towards less water, fertilizer, and chemicals:
- Trying to use less water means two things: trying to maximize the efficiency of your irrigation system and, in turn, use less total water. Moving toward this presents a couple problems. If your irrigation system is old, in disrepair, or overall just inadequate, you're never going to get the best possible efficiency. The quality of your irrigation system, once you start dialing back the nightly water, will directly correlate to the frequency of the sudden appearance of LDS (localized dry spot). These "hot spots," in order to maintain uniform playing conditions and keep the grass alive, need to then be handwatered, which require sometimes immense amounts of labor hours. Most lower budget courses can't afford either a new system to make up for their inefficiency or the manhours it takes to handwater. So they end up watering enough to keep everything alive, and on an inefficient system this often equates to watering the dry areas just right, but being forced to overwater all other areas.
- Maximizing water control only works well when you have a relative monostand of grass types. The more grasses your throw into the mix often equates to difficulty in watering. For example, the last course I worked at had probably 50% bermuda, 25% rye and 25% poa. The bermuda grew great in the middle of fairways and some roughs where sunlight was abundant. The rye would hold on anywhere it could from the winter's overseeding. And the poa would persist in the shady areas under trees and in low lying areas. Bermuda doesn't need much water, but rye and poa need a ton. Trying to get the amount you put out just right is very difficult. If you water the bermuda to be fast and firm, the poa and rye start dying out all over the place. If you water enough to keep the poa and rye alive, the bermuda sometimes drowns in soggier conditions than it would prefer.
- Bradley made great points about fertilizers. Generaly, organic fertilizers aren't high in nitrogen content, the main nutrient the plants need to thrive and recover from damage and injury due to traffic and high play. As a result, you end up having to put out organics either more frequently then synthetics, which require labor hours in application, or more heavily, which as Brad stated can leave an undesriably large amount of material on your turf. Also, it's not ALWAYS true, but many supers I know who have used organics have to be careful because the fertilizers often have a distinct odor that is not often pleasant and can generate many complaints from golfers.
- Less chemicals, in my mind, is easier achieved. A good super working to alter his irrigation, nutrient and soils program, and trying to create an envrionment conducive to healthy growing turf and NON-conducive to pathogens and pests will provide a greater natural resistance to disease and pest problems. Golfer expectations also play a role. Sometimes it may be ok to have some disease in your fairways or roughs, as long as the super thinks he has it's spread under watch and control. Greens you have to be more careful with. But even when I visited Cypress Point, the super there was able to educate his members on not being overly critical of a little disease. If they could accept a little outbreak here and there without forcing the super to spray, they can save money and future resistance problems.
There is MUCH MUCH more to this discussion, but that's all I have time for tonight. Hope this little bit of insight helps. I may chime in again later if I can find more time!
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