[Darren_Kilfara]

Yesterday morning I woke up at 4:45 a.m. and was on the road from Dunbar shortly after 5:00. My plan was to drive to St. Andrews, get on the list of singles at the Old Course, do a bit of reading and relaxing (and have breakfast) while I waited for my tee time, then have a nice stroll around town and head home early in the afternoon.

I got to the starter's hut at TOC at 6:45 - the rest of the town (and indeed Scotland, as far as I could tell) was asleep, except for the 20 or so people lurking around the first tee. When I spoke with the starter, he told me to come back around NOON, and I could see there were about 15 names on the list already, which is pretty amazing. I'm not sure I'll try this trick again...

So, that led me to plan B - the Castle Course, which I was keen to see anyway. I was there before 7:00, and with the first tee time at 7:30 (an hour later than at the Old Course, for some reason), I was off as part of a three-ball at 7:42. Through sheer serendipity, I managed to complete my round on the Castle by 11:45, make it back to TOC to check in with the starter by noon, discover my name was pretty much at the top of the list, and tee off at 12:20. I was finished by 4:45 and back in Dunbar by 6:45 to have dinner and help put my kids to sleep. Pretty good, huh? A very tiring day - and quite an expensive one (costing £250 in green fees) - but a very, very rewarding one as well.

Anyway, to the Castle Course: I haven't been hanging out around here much recently, so I'm not sure to what extent its merits have been debated, but for my money it's every bit as good as Bandon Dunes. In fact, my one chief fault with it is that it basically *is* Bandon Dunes with a more severe set of greens, more "natural" bunker edging, less gorse, and the somewhat quirky mounds with longer grass in the middle of a number of fairways (which I've seen referred to as "Don Kings" in other reviews, although I understand the grass on them has already been trimmed since it opened last month). It has a very similar clifftop setting with a few dramatic holes along its edge, a few elevation changes, lots and lots of teeing grounds, and a similar overall feel to BD, at least relative to my one and only trip there in 2001. The architect is the same, of course. Plus, the Castle Course obviously caters to the same class of golfer as Bandon, based upon the amenities and facilities there. Does uniqueness matter? Is one golf course worse than another simply because it mirrors the merits of another? (Rhetorical questions for you to ponder, perhaps...)

The greens *are* pretty wild, but mostly in a good way. Kidd is a member at Machrihanish (and has been working on the new Machrihanish Bay course as well), and there are several greens at the Castle which clearly remind me of one or two of those at Machrihanish (particularly the latter's 2nd, 5th, 10th and 12th). I had a long putt at to a hole location at the back-left of the par-5 5th yesterday that reminded me of a putt I've hit several times at the 12th at Machrhanish, where the percentage play seemed to be to roll the ball up a bank past the pin and have it funnel back to the hole. (That proved not to be the case yesterday, but it was fun to have tried!) The key is that the greens at the Castle are huge, so the wild slopes dictate what you do once you get on the greens without being too penal for the high handicapper; the better player will need to target the correct section of the greens, not merely the greens themselves. The only green I didn't like was the 10th, which has the effect of a cake that is missing one slice; many others will be over the top for some, particularly the cloverleaf 4th (with a rear-right section that is almost a mini-punchbowl of its own), but I think the average GCAer will really like them.

The Castle is currently rather less penal than BD, but when it matures and the grass gets thicker, the rough and the wind should make that comparison more even. I could be wrong, but I believe the fairways at the Castle are wider. Because of this fairway width, the "Don Kings" are acceptable to me - people probably wouldn't complain as much if they were centerline bunkers, and yet for the average golfer they are much easier to escape than a bunker. They *are* a bit unnatural in execution - their edges seem a bit jagged to me - but many features of Kingsbarns felt that way to me when I played it not long after its opening, and I'm sure they'll have softened a bit since then.

The Castle is quite a tough walk, with its elevation changes (the panoramic view from the 12th green back across the course and down to the clubhouse really emphasizes this) and long green-to-tee gaps, especially from the 9th to the 10th - my playing partners, both St. Andrews residents, rode around in a buggy, and at times I wished I were in one as well. But it's a very pretty walk; the clifftop view from the 17th tee really was stunning, and for my money the view up to the skyline 12th green itself was really inspiring. (Playing into the countervailing wind, the uphill 454-yard 12th was virtually unreachable, but it was still one of my two or three favorite holes on the course.)

Interestingly, one of my playing partners had played the course three times already -  he was a local and a 15-handicapper or thereabouts, but that didn't stop him from coming back and really enjoying himself. As for me...at this instant I'm actually more keen to play the Castle again than I am the Old Course. Granted, this is largely because I've played TOC 30+ times, and while I love it every much as I ever have, it's a hassle to get a game as a single (I was really lucky yesterday worked out like it did), it takes a long time to play it, and it feels very claustrophobic (a drive on the 17th came within a few feet of my head while I was playing the 2nd, with no cry of "Fore!" to be heard). But I'd love to see how the back-right hole location plays at the Castle's 4th, to try and use the left bank of the 5th green to my advantage on the approach, to see if it's even remotely possible for me to birdie the 7th again into the wind (smile), to attack the 14th green from the open spaces on the left side of the fairway instead of approaching blindly from the right, to hit a more intelligent layup on the par-5 15th, to see if the 17th always plays as long as it felt yesterday, and to figure out the right line off of the 18th tee to set up possibly going for the green in two. I'm sure much of the reaction against the Castle Course has come because it's in St. Andrews, and professional critics who might tolerate or even embrace Kingsbarns or Bandon Dunes are much less inclined to be generous to the new kid on the block in the home of golf. But the Castle isn't another St. Andrews Bay - it has real merit as a golf course, and you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you let a negative review scare you away.

Cheers,
Darren

[Jim Colton]

Darren,

  Thanks for the overview.  That sounds like a great day!  Nothing beats the tired feeling of walking 36+ at some great courses.

[Greg Krueger]

Wow, what a great day!! No pictures? How did you find the conditioning, was it firm & fast or was it pretty wet & soft because of the grow in?

[Darren_Kilfara]

It was pretty firm and fast, actually - the ground was very "tight", if that's the right word to use. The greens were very smooth and very puttable, and very bouncy; the ball mark repairer I was given on the first tee was entirely unnecessary. (The greens reminded me a bit of when I first played The Links at Spanish Bay shortly after it opened, around 20 years ago - back when they were fescue and the poa hadn't taken over - although I'm not sure that comparison will mean much to anyone.)

[Kirk Gill]

Some of the most pointed criticism I've read about the Castle course has to do with the fact that it is essentially "faked." That the land forms that the course flows over were artificially created. What's interesting to me is that this is the very sort of thing that has garnered praise for courses like the new Bayonne. Darren, what's your take? Does the course feel at all artificial when you look at the surrounding landscape? Did it feel artificial while playing it?

I understand the feelings on both sides of this debate - but I'm also a fan of high quality craftsmanship, and if done well I'm not opposed to something that is created to replicate something else, per se. Darren, was this kind of thought in your mind at ALL when actually out on the course?

[Darren_Kilfara]

Kirk - at the micro level, I would say yes, many of the fairway mounds (aka "Don Kings") looked unnatural and felt somewhat artificial, as do some of the slopes along the sides of some of the fairways. But then, I've always felt the same way about Kingsbarns, and that hasn't bothered me there; it doesn't really bother me here, either, and I don't think it's right for people to let it bother them more just because it's occurring in St. Andrews (if you want to be bothered by architecture in St. Andrews, be bothered by the 15th on the Jubilee or Steel's work on the Eden).

At the macro level, the course hardly felt artificial at all. The course does a nice job of blending in with its surroundings; perhaps the only place where I felt a little odd was on the 14th, which is the plainest corner of the course (nearest the main road into town) and the one place where the otherwise excellent routing feels a bit awkward (12-13-14 feel a bit disconnected from the rest of the course, 12 being a long walk from 11 - although the payoff of playing the 12th is worth it), but otherwise the course does a great job of suspending your disbelief.

[BCrosby]

So, that led me to plan B - the Castle Course, which I was keen to see anyway. I was there before 7:00, and with the first tee time at 7:30 (an hour later than at the Old Course, for some reason), I was off as part of a three-ball at 7:42. Through sheer serendipity, I managed to completely my round on the Castle by 11:45, make it back to TOC to check in with the starter by noon, discover my name was pretty much at the top of the list, and tee off at 12:20. I was finished by 4:45 and back in Dunbar by 6:45 to have dinner and help put my kids to sleep. Pretty good, huh? A very tiring day - and quite an expensive one (costing £250 in green fees) - but a very, very rewarding one as well.

Darren -

Sitting here in Atlanta on a sodden summer afternoon after a tough day at the office, there are no words to express my envy. You got off cheap.

I  hope all goes well.  Bob   

[Gary Slatter]

Darren, I enjoyed your review of the Castle, I've played it a few times (5) and can't figure out if I like it or not.  The "don Kings" or whatever are one problem, the other is most people I've played can't handle the shots to the green, seems too tough for average players.  I like the greens, fun and challenging.  I do prefer it over the other Links courses though, with the exception of the Old.  It is in the best condition (mostly).

Regarding your comment about St Andrews Bay - when can I show you around the new layouts?  The Torrance is being completely renovated with new tees, new bunkers, new drainage and different routing, reopens next summer and hosts final Open qualifying in 2010.  The Devlin reopens in September and now finishes with the former Torrance 17 and 16, two great par fours. Previously the 18th was a good par 3, now that it's the 16th it's really a good hole.  Lots of improvements, Texan Gary Stevenson has been doing the design and MJ Abbott have been doing the work. 

[John Kirk]

Hi Darren,

Thanks for taking the time and carefully sharing your experience.

[Ronald Montesano]

Unless my sources have lied, the original land of Castle (which I wanted to name "Old Tom's Rest," but the buggers didn't select) was flat farmland.  Of course it has to be faked, much as Kingsbarns had to be faked (yes on that one?  I don't know its terrain history.)  And whether it is faked or not should not matter one iota; it is the end product that comes forth that represents.  I for one (and probably, for many) would not wish to play TOC The Sequel, since sequels typically suck helium when compared with the original.  It's great that the Castle differs.

A wise curmudgeon (one of the owners of The Links at Ivy Ridge, near Buffalo) cautioned me on too much expectation, too soon.  Take a pot and toss in Kidd, St. Andrews, seaside land, and you cannot help but get too much expectation, too soon.  I believe that the Castle Course is akin to Anthony Kim.  So much is expected of both that they cannot help but disappoint unless they win.  I'm glad to see a writer whose work I respect give the Castle an affirmative nod, especially given the vitriol that has sprouted faster than Don King's Hair concerning the new track.

[Melvyn Morrow]

Ronald

Old Tom’s Rest, I like the idea but not the location.

IMHO Old Tom would never have looked at the site as a possible golf course
therefore it would have been totally inappropriate to call it after him.

I am pleased that the course is getting some rather positive reviews. In fact I have already suggested to some that when they visiting St Andrews they should play the course. My objection is not against the design or the finished article, although I still do not believe it blends in with its surrounding – my complaint remains, that this site should never have been considered in the first place as a location of a golf course. But that has aired on other past topics.

As for Old Tom’s Rest, I am pleased that he is resting with his family around him in the ruins of the old cathedral in St Andrews and having Young Tom’s Memorial guarding the plot. Never the less, Ronald, I like the sentiment.

[Kyle Henderson]

I hate to offer such a simplestic course vs. course argument, but would you recommend Kingsbarn or The Castle Course to a visiting American with time to play only one of them (assuming he's played everything else in the area already)?

[rchesnut]

Kyle, as an American who was there last week and played both courses, I'd recommend Kingsbarns over the Castle course.  I thought Darren's assessment of the Castle was quite good, though I'm not quite as high on it as he is.  I had heard a lot of negative about the Castle course before I played it, and came away pleasantly surprised.  A few of the greens were too wild for my taste, and I thought that the "Don Kings" subtracted from the experience. ..I think Bandon is a better course.  But it's a very good course nonetheless, well worth playing.  I thought that Kingsbarns was a definite cut above, though. 

[Bob_Huntley]

If Kingsbarns is "Fake' then I am all in favor of fakes. There is so much in golf architecture that can be labelled thus but to denigrate courses such as the Castle and KB is carping at best.

I am sure that Old Tom may well have not thought much of the Castle property but when one comes to think of it,  he had a helluva lot more sites to consider in the late 19th and early 20th century.

Bob

[Darren_Kilfara]

Kyle - FWIW, while I haven't played Kingsbarns recently enough to make a fully informed comparison between it and the Castle, if you're coming over right now I'd play Kingsbarns, because it has the advantage of maturity. The Castle is still a bit rough around the edges.

Gary - I was probably a bit unfair in my throwaway comment about St. Andrews Bay, as I played the Devlin last year and rather enjoyed it, although not as much as Kingsbarns or the Castle. (I have heard more negative comments about the Torrance but never played it.) But yes, of course I'd be interested to see how the revisions - of which I was unaware - improve both courses!

[Mark Bourgeois]

Hi Darren

Thanks for the report. Can we assume none of this is down to some miracle nine architecture-based revelation of your true ability as a golfer?

Good point re fakeration - and vy nice post Kirk G.  I didn't like Whistling Straits and thought it was down to knowing the artificiality of the thing.

But then I took my low expectations down to Chambers Bay and found a course that is missing only a sign behind 18 green pointing the golfer to 1 tee.

What does everyone think of this conclusion: most architects lack the skill or the desire to build a course where the hand of man is pretty much entirely hidden. Therefore, they'd better get the (overt) craftsmanship right: the relationship between overt craftsmanship and naturalism is inverse.

I call it the "Pamela Anderson Rule." You know it's all fake, but you can't help admiring the effort!

A perhaps related point to draw from your review is the references to what you found questionable might seem essentially less than excellent examples of craftsmanship. Maybe.

Mark

[Darren_Kilfara]

Mark - ha! Actually, I shot an 81 at the Castle, which is well off of my current standard of play, so any positive comments I have about the course are entirely unrelated to any rose-colored glasses my golf swing may have put on me!

[Ronald Montesano]

Mark, at what point did you dislike Straits?  Was it the fourth and fifth holes and that pond-age?  I admit to being extracted from "the experience" and then being returned to it.  You could probably blend a few from the Irish with Straits and come up with a better composite course.  I felt the same way on Irish when I got to 17 and 18...I thought that they were terrible when conjoined with the previous 16 holes.

[Bill_McBride]

As for Old Tom’s Rest, I am pleased that he is resting with his family around him in the ruins of the old cathedral in St Andrews and having Young Tom’s Memorial guarding the plot. Never the less, Ronald, I like the sentiment.

Melvyn, the cathedral's cemetery is a special place indeed.  I always enjoy visiting it and seeing the grave sites of Old Tom and Young Tom, and that of Alan Robertson nearby, still a bit stiff after all these years about Old Tom playing the gutta percha ball....and being caught in the act!

[Andrew Mitchell]

Darren
That sounds a great day out, albeit very tiring.

I've read a lot about the Castle being too difficult.  Having witnessed first hand your excellent round at Lundin I'm sure you would be disappointed with an 81. How difficult would you rate it in its current state?

[Darren_Kilfara]

Andrew - I don't think it's that difficult at all, to be honest. The fairways are wide, the greens are big...there are a lot of contours to be conquered around the greens, but it's very playable for high handicappers (only one or two shortish forced carries to be faced, the hardest being from the 17th tee to the green). Maybe when the grass grows and thickens a bit in the rough, that might change, but I shot 81 (par = 71) mainly because I didn't putt well, particularly in terms of getting down in two from 40-50 feet or from just off the green - both things you'll need to do a lot if your approaches aren't precise.

Actually, there are a few places where extreme slopes around the greens can make lesser players look foolish - my 24-handicap playing partner putted off the 16th green and down a deep swale to the left, and several times my partners tried to putt up from swales below the green, came up short and had virtually the same putt again - but generally there aren't too many holes where you can't make an easy bogey if that's what you're trying to make.

[Andrew Mitchell]

Thanks for that Darren.  From your description it would appear that par is generally defended at the green, which is preferable to narrow fairways and knee high rough!

I'm intrigued to see & play the Castle so will be mentally adding it to my lists of things to do when next in St Andrews. 

[Brian Phillips]

Darren,

Good to hear from you again.  I agree with pretty much everything you have had to say about the course.

I really enjoyed my round and it was in at least a 3-4 club wind. Shot 82, 3 putting 15,16,17 and 18...

Brian

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