I played the course with my son, an Ausie, and a Kiwi. The two "strangers" were great guys, also there for the first time, and did not know each other. They were also as crooked off the tee as any 20 handicappers I've ever seen, and my son and I spent a good deal of time chasing their foul balls.
The day was near perfect weather-wise, with the course setup to its usual tourist standard: short with pins in accessible positions. The starter and marshalls were at the peak of their game- snooty and acting as they were being imposed upon. And with my son and I looking for the lost balls mostly belonging to our two playing companions, we had only a little time to "study" the course while being hustled along by the ever-present marshalls (we played in slightly under four hours).
I am sorry to say that TOC did not meet my expectations, and the experience overall was underwhelming. By contrast, Carnoustie made a much more favorable impression.
Having read Rich Goodale's recent book on TOC and very much liking the town and the R&A, I look forward to going back in the not too distant future. It is too bad that I will probably never get to play the course at its true length and with a challenging setup. There could very well be much more there than meets the eye. However, with the attendant hassles and the hyper-inflated fees, I don't know that many of us will make the opportunity to find out.