I have written about this phenomenon at length in my book ("A Golfer's Education"). I think there are three stages of experiencing the Old Course:
1) Tourist. Everything is exciting, but little is understood. The joys of the course come from its history, not its architecture. (First 1-3 rounds)
2) Heretic. You still don't know where you're going, but you start hitting into lots of bunkers you didn't know were there, and you're frustrated as hell - you actually start hating the course. (Next 4-8 rounds)
3) Convert. Finally the strategy of the course begins to dawn upon you - you learn where the bunkers and all of the good angles are, and you learn how to play the course properly. And it's simply wonderful from that point onward. (Starting anywhere between rounds 6-12)
Phil, if more courses were like TOC - i.e. if it wasn't so alien to our thinking, because there were another 30+ courses in the world with the same sorts of humps, hollows, bunkers etc., the same angles of attack, etc. - I don't think it would be so inscrutable as it actually is. Which gives me an idea for a new thread (which I'll start right away)...
Cheers,
Darren