I just had the pleasure of a trip to Devon and played these four courses (East and West at Saunton). I had played Saunton East before and RND and return trips only enhanced the pleasure.
Saunton East is sometimes whimsically discussed as a possible Open venue if it came to this part of the world. I am not sure it is quite that calibre, but it is still a wonderful course. I think the holes I remember best are the two excellent, back to back short par fours - the tenth and eleventh, and the fifth hole - only 110 yards, but a really tricky little shot.
I also enjoyed the West course - a bit shorter and quirkier than its more senior relation, but also the possessor of some excellent short par-fours.
Both courses were extremely dry so the ball ran miles. This was a good reminder of how links courses are still afforded protection even when playing short. My opening drive at Saunton ended up running about 360 yards, but it was still difficult to get approach shots close when greens and entrances were so firm. Add to that greens of some slope and it is not so easy to score, even if the fairways flatter yoru length off the tee.
Westward Ho is a fantastic place to visit. I think the clubhouse, albeit in a low-key way, is probably the most historically evocative of any I have visited. The change-rooms have a wonderful old wood panelling, and it is quite something to see all old boards signalling winners all the way back to 1864. On top of that, there is some fantastic old JH Taylor memorabilia (including an exchange of letters with WG Grace - a cricketer to those of you on the wrong side of the water
- and another with Rudyard Kipling.) and the largest collection of antique golf clubs that I have ever seen.
Interestingly for what is - I think - the oldest club in England, I suspect the membership has morphed quite a lot in recent years. Although I think there is still a "grand" element, financial need has meant that the club has not been able to evolve into a more socially exclusive club like Royal St Georges, so you meet an interesting spectrum of members.
As for the golf - it brings to mind mostly Brora and the Old Course for the sheer lack of definition on some holes. And only Brora can begin to compare for the sheer, pastoral feel it evokes. The Cape hole is justly famous with its bunker, but I had forgotten what a spectacular hole Alps (number 6) is with the fantastically rumpled fairway. The stretch of holes going out from 3-8 feel like the best on the course. I think some people are not so keen on the holes involving the rushes - 10, 11 and 12 - but I think 10 and 11 in particular are good holes in their different ways.
Ilfracombe is a less exalted course than these others, but it is only half an hour from Saunton and and hour from Westward Ho. On Mark Rawlinson's advice (thank you Mark
we played it before playing Westward Ho! and it was a nice foil to the other courses. It is not a links course, but it is perched high on the cliffs above the north Devon coast with stunning views.
It is not unlike Thurlstone, except it is much steeper as a number of hole are either going up the slopes, or around it. While the nature of the land constrains what is possible to some extent, it is still a fun course to play.
The course has some pleasantly quirky features - three back to back par threes at one point being one of them! But the stand out feature is the short par four Quarry hole, only 68 yards from the club tees, with a quarry between you and the green! A really unique hole. The course also finishes with a par three with a very interesting green complex - I will make an effort to post some pictures to show these two holes, and others.
I suspect most golf tourists from the US seldom make it to these parts but I can only commend these courses. No links enthusiast will be anything other than delighted by the Saunton courses and Westward Ho! and if you are travelling with a partner, then you are in one of the nicest parts of England to have a holiday - and well on your way to St Enodoc for desert.