Irish Golf: Where to Go?

[Tim Spence]

If given the choice, and with reasonable time constraints (7 days), which area would you visit?

Southwest - Ballybunion, Lahinch, Tralee, Dooks, et al.

Northern - Royal County Down, Portrush, Portstewart, Castlerock, et al.

Dublin - Royal Dublin, Portmarnock, County Louth, The Island, et al.

N.West - Rosapenna, Enniscrone, County Sligo, Portsalon, Donegal, et al.

[THuckaby2]

Wow is this a tough question.  In a perfect world you have a month and see them all.  But this world is rarely perfect...

Sidestepping your question, I can say that I recently did a trip in 10 days that circled the island and hit the best of the best.  The drives were long but manageable, with the caveat that we had a bus and driver so did no driving ourselves.

If you are firm in concentrating on one area and one area only, I'd vote for the North.  And damn this is a tough choice!  Any of these would make for a great trip... I just think you can do the ones you mention, allowing two days for either Portrush or RC Down or both (believe me, you're not gonna want to leave either place) and throwing in Ballyliffen on top of the others... You're getting two definite jewels in the golf crown, and VERY high quality for the rest.  Much easier to get around up there also, better infrastructure (hey, I can admit that no matter how much Irish blood I have!).

My huge caveat here is that limiting to one area doesn't HAVE to be done... you can get around quite nicely... Ireland is not that big of a place.

But sticking to one area allows better concentration, obviously, and more relaxation.. so go for it!

TH

[John_Conley]

If you go to Ulster, you'll have a chance to hit some of the great attractions of Ireland without budging very far.

Bushmills Distillery, the Giants Causeway, the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge, the Dunluce Castle, and some other castle ruins are in very close proximity.  Co. Down is among the top courses in the world, and you'll probably like Portrush as well.

That trip has a lot to offer for non-golf time.

[THuckaby2]

Very true, John.  You are 100% correct, of course.

But who goes to Ireland for anything but golf?

Oh man, were my friends giving me crap for our all-golf, all-day schedule I prescribed.  But hey, I can see sights in the US.  If I had a choice between a late 9 holes at Portstewart or seeing the Giants Causeway, well... send me the postcard.

Completely contradicting myself though, the Guinness brewery tour won out over completing the back nine at Langer's "Portmarnock Links".... and we sure as hell did stop to see the Cliffs of Moher...

So I suppose man does not live by golf alone.

I can't believe I just wrote that.

Hopefully none of the guys I made that trip with will ever read this.

Never mind....

TH

[Paul Perrella]

 Tom H.,
Did you really say what I thought you said!

Tim,
 Go to the North and play RCD, Portrush, Ballyliffen, Portstewart & Castlerock. Play at least the first two twice each and make Tom Huckaby introduce you to his cousin. Stay at least a couple of nights at Bushmills and see the Giants Causeway if you pass it. Just my opinion but the Cliffs of Moher may be the only touristy thing to do and even that is not worth giving up golf for. Our driver said it was the shortest stay he has ever had at the cliffs.3 minutes

[THuckaby2]

Paul - I do tend to ramble, so take from that ONLY the "never mind" part.

And Tim S - my cousin remains game to host visitors any time.  Send me an email if you do head to the north.

TH

ps - in my Insane Golfer Society defense, please note that we visited the Cliffs of Moher at the end of a long 36-hole day at Lahinch.  Worth seeing, but not worth MISSING golf for.  Whew!

[Rob_Waldron]

If you choose the Southwest. Do not miss the Little Island Club in Cork....a hidden gem!

[Doug Wright]

I've done the Dublin/Southwest tour and not the other areas. While The Island and Portmarnock can't be beat, for pure golf and from what I've learned here I'd do the Southwest and the North. Of course, the transportation issues are more difficult between these two areas, but that's where I'd go if time allowed.

Doug

[Tim_Weiman]

Tim:

The mere fact that you want to concentrate on one area means you are off to a good start.

[THuckaby2]

TimW - far be it from me to disagree with you, but is that necessarily always true?

What would you advise someone who had 10 days and no real guarantee of EVER getting back over there?

I'd say bite the bullet, travel around, see ALL the greats.  You can rest when you get home.  Sure, in a perfect world we all make multiple trips back "home" and can concentrate on specific areas...

But that's not reality for most people.

If one has time, and will be back, by all means, it's better to concentrate on one area and soak it in.

But everything must be weighed here....

We've had this discussion before on GCA.  Put me strongly behind the "once each and Ballybunion and RC Down" over "twice at RC Down" school.  I never assume I'll be back.

TH

TH

[Tim_Weiman]

Tom Huckaby:

Having made about twenty trips to Ireland, I may not be the best source on this topic.

There is no doubt that most people are facing a "once in a lifetime" experience.  If that is the case and you really want to see all the big name courses, by all means get in the car and go!

Candidly, that is how most Americas I meet do it.  Sometimes they barely have time to stop for lunch and a beer.

I weigh in for staying in one region because a) it seems so few people do it and b) I truly believe the overall experience will be better.

[THuckaby2]

Understood.  And in essence I do agree with you.  I would just advise that people weigh this in terms of how often they can get back.  For the vast majority of visitors, for whom this is indeed once (or twice) in a lifetime, I just do believe that seeing Ballybunion period is better than savoring RC Down.

I just use those as the two best examples that are far apart...

I'd say there are a few MUSTS in Ireland and seeing those at all cost, sometime in one's lifetime - that is the priority.  The worst way to do it is all in one trip, but that beats not seeing them at all...

Make sense?

Yep, most Americans do a trip like I did a year ago - if it's Tuesday this must be Sligo - but most don't come back regretting they didn't spend more time in one place... they come back telling stories about the places they did see.  That to me isn't bad...

I've been fortunate enough to get back a few times, and have done trips both ways.

And you know what?

I might have NEVER gotten to Ballyliffen had I not made the effort.  I am damn glad I got there.

TH

[Allen_Rebstock]

Since I assume you would have to fly into either Dublin or Shannon, I thing a great trip would be to fly in to Dublin and work you way up. Day one play Portmarnock, The Island, day two 36 at RCD, day three RCD again then head up to Portrush. Day four play Portstewart & Castlerock, day five 36 at Portrush playing both courses, day six  heading back toward Dublin for return flight play County Louth & Links of Portmarnoch. Day, Day 7 return home or play Royal Dublin or European Club in time permits.

Like Tom, last year we did a tour bus trip starting in Dublin working our way counter closewise around all the way to Cork.  Played 17 rounds and 14 courses.  Without a doubt all felt RCD was easily #1 with Portrush easily in 2nd.  Portmarnock would also be in the top 5 with Ballybunion & Lahinch.   So if you do Northern Ireland you're playing the two best.  However Southwest area with Ring of Kerry is more beautiful  

[THuckaby2]

Allen - both of those sound GREAT to me... both the 7 and 14 day versions.  Where do I sign up?

Seriously, you're seeing some great courses in Allen's 7day proposal starting in Ireland, and none of the drives are all that long.  Sounds like a damn good itinerary to me.

You could do the same flying into Shannon, starting at Ballybunion, working north and then back to Shannon, but that makes for longer drives.  I like the Dublin working north version Allen suggests.

TH

[Pete Adams]

I agree with everything in Allen's plan except I think Royal Dublin can be skipped. It reminded me of a Florida resort course. If you're that close (in Ireland) to great links golf play another round somewhere else. Tim, follow Allen's advice, fly to Dublin and play your way north and back!

[ForkaB]

Tim S

Both TomH and TimW's points of view are valid, as is all the other advice on this thread.

Don't agonize over this.  YOU CAN'T GO WRONG!

Throw a dart, flip a coin, cut the deck, bring out the Ouija board, or whatever.  Then, kiss the wife and kids, relax on the plane and enjoy!

Rich

[Paul_W]

Tim: I offer passionately proven itinerary,(you will be thoroughly seduced wherever you play!): Ballybunion, Lahinch, Enniscrone or County Sligo, Rosapenna-Portsalon(same day), Royal Portrush, Royal County Down, Baltray or Portmarnock.  Fly into Shannon, depart Dublin.  Seven days is too brief, ten or eleven ideal, in my experience. I much prefer self-drive and B&B; pub grub as required, and a quiet, receptive attitude.  There is much to learn in Eire...... Slante!  

[R.S._Barker]

The Dublin circuit...sure everyone has their choice for best course in Ireland, and my choice hands down is Portmarnock.

Nasty winds ALL the time on the Portmarnock Peninsula, and a set of holes that will eat you up as quick as many of those " other " courses.

Of note, the 15th hole...considered by many ( and myself ) to be the best par 3 in the world. Where else can you possible play a 9 iron from 190, or turn right around and play a driver...ohh..then there's that nasty green..wow !!...scares the bejesus out of me.

My favorite story follows..

...we'd just finished the outward leg, and turned for home when the rain started coming down sideways. I looked at me caddy ( all of 14 ), and asked..." ya think it's raining ? ". ..he looked into the rain, and said " aye mate, but the heavy stuff is still to fall, although this is nothing until the wind picks up ".

..we reached the 15th and I was soaked through to the bone, but loving every moment...( by this time the wind was whipping at 60 plus mph )...my caddy said " you'd be best to keep it on the ground and take your lumps " ...so my partner laughed, aimed way left , and teed off.

Our laughter died as the ball started WAY left ( a good 30 yards left )...and started slicing...over the green, over the fence, over the beach, and a good 50 yards out into the Irish Sea...

...we walked in from there.

Fore,

R.S. Barker

[Jeff Ellison]

Tim

By now you get the sense that you can't go wrong.  Stay with courses in the sand - famous or hidden gems - and the golf will be great.

One thing that has not been mentioned is the hospitality of the Irish people.  In a recent  12 day loop we managed 2 "matches" with members of the host club - by far the highlights of the trip.  And if you are lucky enough to win on the course - you will definitely lose in the bar!

Have a great trip.

[Paul_Daley]

Tim:

I've tried the Irish thing every which way: (a) The "sampler" tour - involving much travel with terrific exposure to the best links only (3-4 regions).

(b) The stay and play in one region/cluster of links.

(c) A combination tour: an assortment of unheralded links, mixed in with the best links.

Like Rich pointed out, the decision is not to agaonise over - any combination is just a treat.

"Huck" made some great points, but on balance, I would go the way of Tim Weiman's suggestion and concentrate one one region.

That Region would be North. This needs some clarification. Mainly, people think only of Royal County Down, R. Portrush, Portstewart, Ballycastle, Castlerock ... as north. Extend your notion of north to include Ballyliffin, Carne, or Sligo. There will be casualties: flick Ballycastle and Castlerock aside.

In my opinion, the best way to sample Irish golf is 10-14 days which allows for option (c) as mentioned above.

[THuckaby2]

As usual our fine participants here cut to the chase and make some great points.  Rich is right, you truly can't go wrong with this... and Paul and Tim are right also - if you can bite the bullet and NOT see a few of the real gems, then the best way is indeed to concentrate on one area.  I just know if I personally did it that way on my FIRST trip, it would leave me with two results:

a) I'd be dying I missed Ballybunion or whichever I did miss; and

b) I'd be angling to get back asap.

So maybe this IS the best way all-around!

Jeff E. is spot on also - the Irish people are what make the trip great.  I'm not kidding when I say contact me and I'll set you up with my cousin at Castlerock... and if you plan far enough ahead, you surely can do matches like Jeff did.

Cheers!

TH
tom.huckaby@clorox.com

[Slag_Bandoon]

 Selfishly, I would also suggest Enniscrone so we can get an update on its new holes and routing.

Tim Spence, I am curious as to what kind of experience you are searching for. Is it the ballyhooed biggies of history, the escape to natural auld Ireland of the past with no crowds on the playing fields (Carne in Belmullet), championship tests, mingling with the charm of golfers in matches (Ireland invented charm), Celtic music (Doolin by Lahinch), or quirky cool fun roll the dice golf (Narin & Portnoo Golf Links), etc, etc, etc?  Or is it the mead!?! (Bunratty)  

 Win, win, win across the board.

 

[Rick Nowosad]

I agree with much of what has been posted here, particularly the observations of Allen, Paul W., Mr. Barker and my old bud Huck.

I've been on two golf trips to Ireland for 15 days in '93 and 20 days in '97. On both occasions we played in every quadrant and did not find the playing/traveling dichotomy overly taxing.

Trip one: Royal Dublin, Portmarnock (36), Mt. Juliet, Tralee, Ballybunion, Waterville, Killeen, Lahinch, Connemara, Sligo, Portstewart, Portrush then County Down.

Trip two: Portrush, Portstewart, Sligo, Enniscrone, Carne, Connemara, Lahinch, Ballybunion (Old & New), Tralee, Waterville, Killeen, Portmarnock Links, Portmarnock, K-Club, St. Margarets, Baltray and County Down.

I've met a number of guys who have gone on 8 day golf binges there and claim to have had a thoroughly good time playing 36 holes a day. That may be true for them (although I tend to chalk that up to testosterone hype) but this I know about me; I wouldn't for three reasons.

First, I want to enjoy the course and take it in, remember and savor it like a fine bottle of wine. Playing the same course for 36 might work in this respect! Playing two different courses in the same day leads to confusion in the old memory bank for me.

Secondly, we're not talking Myrtle Beach or Southern California here, riding carts in perfect weather! It will be windy almost certainly and the weather can get downright nasty, for the day or parts of it. Your rainsuit and umbrella will probably work overtime. You will be physically taxed playing and walking in those conditions. Playing 36 hole days will guarantee to exhaust you and you WILL NOT be playing anywhere near to your usual form as a direct result. Also recognize that these are difficult courses and you will be taxed in playing them to your capability anyway. So it's a choice, rip off these gems and notch your belt, or take your time and play them with the care and attention they merit.

Third, even Huck recognizes that there is something inherently fun about playing a game o a great course then repairing to the pub for Guiness and pub grub and bantering with the locals. The people are almost as much fun as the golf! Those opprtunities are surely missed if all you do is golf, golf, drive, sleep, golf, drive, golf, drive, sleep, etc. It's only my opinion, but I swear to it, enjoy the WHOLE experience.

[Tim Spence]

Gents,
I appreciate all of your comments/suggestions - keep 'em coming.

I guess, that with plentiful resources and unlimited time, i would totally encircle the emerald isle. Regrettably, I will only be there for 7-8 days, and I thought it best if I would stay in only one area. Looks likes its down to NW, or SE.
That being said which one?

[THuckaby2]

"Third, even Huck recognizes...."

Ahhh, poor misunderstood me.

I absolutely did not ever mean to say that the most preferable way to do this is to do anything but take time and savor... hell yes, I'd have to guess that on each trip over I've had as much or more fun off the course than on....

My take remains that savoring is the best way, but getting around is not that bad... and I still think seeing all the courses is better than savoring some, if you are in the very common "once in a lifetime trip" scenario.  Most people don't have the time to savor all that much.

The circle the island trip I did was FILLED with experiences outside the courses... there is a thing called night-time....

One can do a trip this way and have plenty of time to banter with the locals.  You do have to stay somewhere each night....

And as for notching one's belt, well... it's all in the attitude.  You can get a lot out of one round if you have the right mind-set.

In any case, hi Rick!

TH